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Wanted by Member - Good UK RHD CP Series TR6 with OD


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Just a quick heads up - have put a wanted Ad on Classifieds on behalf of a member who is feeling lost without a TR, having recently sold his 4A, and is looking for a good, but not concours TR6. It needs to be an original UK car.

Body, Chassis and paint must be good with no rust, and mechanically it needs to be sound and reliable, and must have overdrive.

He is based in Essex but will travel within reason for the right car and has cash burning a hole in his pocket, so if you have something which might be suitable or know of a car, please get in touch via PM or contact me directly if you already have my details.

Cheers Rich

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5 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Because he wants the 150bhp engine and preferably an A type OD rather than J type

Cheers Rich

Seems like a logical reply to me..............

Alan G

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18 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Because he wants the 150bhp engine and preferably an A type OD rather than J type

Cheers Rich

 

13 hours ago, cp25616 said:

Seems like a logical reply to me..............

Alan G

 

I would agree if CP cars ever made 150bhp and there was a real world difference with CR cars ... but that '25 horsepower' difference never actually existed due to differing testing protocols.  And nowadays, the difference is negligable and you may well find a CR engine stronger than a CP engine?  Certainly, my CR engine is stronger (albeit after a full rebuild, new cam and exhaust) is stronger than some CP cars I have driven. 

As for overdrive, I agree that is personal preference but for me (I only ever really use od for A road / motorway cruising) J is better as revs are reduced more (as I understand it?) 

Personally speaking, I would recommend anyone to buy the best they can afford and not get hung up on years or od type. 

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There is certainly a difference in a well set-up CP Vs CR engine, if we are comparing two standard rebuilt engines, largely due to camshaft and valve size.  I have had both well set-up examples. The CR one is certainly smoother low down, but when pressing on, doesn't have the torque that a CP model has.  The difference is less than the claimed 25bhp, and for most owners who just fancy a steady drive in the summer, will probably not notice the difference, but if you use most of the tachometer, you will feel in the difference (seat of the pants).

A-type engagement is different to J-type by virtue of the design.  The A-type is much faster at engaging, and operates on 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears.  The J-Type is supposed to be a lighter and stronger unit, that said, I have never had an issue with my competition spec A-type unit, on a well tuned and set-up engine.

All the money is in the body and chassis, relatively speaking, so my advice would be buy the best you can afford with decent body, gaps, and chassis.

 

Cheers.

Edited by TRTOM2498PI
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14 minutes ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

There is certainly a difference in a well set-up CP Vs CR engine, if we are comparing two standard rebuilt engines, largely due to camshaft and valve size.  I have had both well set-up examples. The CR one is certainly smoother low down, but when pressing on, doesn't have the torque that a CP model has.  The difference is less than the claimed 25bhp, and for most owners who just fancy a steady drive in the summer, will probably not notice the difference, but if you use most of the tachometer, you will feel in the difference (seat of the pants).

A-type engagement is different to J-type by virtue of the design.  The A-type is much faster at engaging, and operates on 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears.  The J-Type is supposed to be a lighter and stronger unit, that said, I have never had an issue with my competition spec A-type unit, on a well tuned and set-up engine.

All the money is in the body and chassis, relatively speaking, so my advice would be buy the best you can afford with decent body, gaps, and chassis.

 

Cheers.

Agree on all counts and if you had some idea of budget that would sort out the standard of car required 

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Hi all - thanks for everyone's input. There has been a reasonable response and yes I acknowledge it would have been helpful to have indicated a budget initially, which incidentally was around the £20k mark - this is a difficult ball park because you can get both great cars and dogs in this bracket .

Fortunately my friend has much better mechanical knowledge and skills than those pertaining to his IT skiils, which must say something about the blind leading the blind when it comes my own IT skills.

Last I heard he was hoping to look at a car today so watch this space!

Cheers Rich 

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I would suggest your friend will find a better condition later CR than a CP car for £20k.  A standard spec CP will fetch about £2k more (higher in some cases) than a CR in equivalent condition. The CR is a good car and some of the differences are academic; my preference is the CP.  

I've had 2 CR and 2 CP TR6s over the last 35 years and for me the CR is the smoother driving car, but the CP has a relatively savage power delivery in comparison.  Overdrive is a desirable option, but don't turn down a car without it as it can be retro fitted and its lack can be used to negotiate. Do your research on the cost of an OD conversion, but allow about £2,000 -£3,000 unless he can do most of the work himself. 

As has been said always buy the best you can afford, but as I've said before never turn down a good TR6 based on colour.

Happy hunting and keep us posted on how the viewing went?

Cheers, Andrew

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I agree Andrew and like yourself I have owned 2 x CR TR6's and 3 x CP TR6's (also X755, TR5 prototype) over the past 40 years and whilst the difference might not amount to 25BHP in figure value the difference in power and drivability certainly feels like it, honestly its like driving two different cars, night and day really. 

I also like the early Smiths instruments over the later generic Smiths examples they just look more in period with the TR6.

You will gather I am a "150" trumpeteer then, you bet your sweet bippy!

Alan G

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I agree with comments above but we must now remember the a CP tr6 is the new tr5. And prices have risen accordingly. I have both models undergoing nut and bolt Restoration, but my last CR sold at beaulieu in 2016 for 20k so I reckon they are now around 25+ for a really good example. CP closer to 40k. Sure you can find good average cars that need a ‘bit doing to it’

but if you don’t know the marque be warned you could get bitten. There are loads of people on this website/ club who have masses of knowledge you only need to ask.

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Hello All.

I have seen several cars so far all have had their good points. But the bad points have been greater so no luck so far. I realise that with the amount I have to spend there will always be better vehicles out there for sale but also probably more expensive.

Have seen some strange things though, one £18k looked like someone had jumped on the boot lid and bonnet which had a recent respray on top of the damage. A £20k car that I suspect needs an engine and gearbox rebuild and I think would be worth less than that after the work was carried out.  

Just hoping to find a nice honest car I can drive for a few years that does not keep breaking down and not be embarrassed by it's condition.

 

Thank you all for your input, it is helpful and appreciated. Mike p

 

 

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Hello All

Have found a car or rather it's present owner found me (via Richard's advert, thank you Richard). Hope to collect it in the next couple off weeks.

Thank you, Mike797

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