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Underbody protection, LANOGUARD.


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"Lanoguard" metal protection is finding its way into the classic car market. I understand this product has been used in the marine, and aircraft industries for some time.

There advertising suggests that its application for the amateur is easier than the more well known wax type applications.

Does anyone have any experience  with "Lanoguard" please.

Russell

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Well lanolin works on sheep - I've never seen a rusty one yet B)

Some interesting views on lanolin here:

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/rust-prevention-with-lanolin-its-better-then-oil.21073/

According to the  hazard data sheet it is just Lanolin and thinners:

ORIGINAL-LANOGUARD-MARINE.pdf?1237229619

Edited by RobH
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  • 3 weeks later...

I ordered some to try on a Dolomite Sprint I've recently sold. I must say it was very easy to apply, in fact like spraying water. It goes on really easy and can be left to dry naturally or wiped with a cloth. It is clear and if there is any kind of surface rust it seems to soak in and protect the surface nicely, not sure about the long term effects of it.....but apparently you can jet wash the underside and the Lanoguard remains in place without being washed off.

I like it and have ordered 2 more large bottles to use moving forward...

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Hi Marco.

Good to hear your comments. Out of 169 views you are only the second person to reply. Your well founded observations  are appreciated. I have used the wax type products in the passed, their application was not easy for the amateur in all locations. Your comment with regard to ease of application is interesting. It would seem that from their company advertising the solution goes on easily, and finds its way into the more difficult smaller places. 

I'll try some.

Thanks Marco. One last comment, "how do you keep your workshop so clean!!! LOL.

Russell

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I've just bought some to try out on tools, lathe chucks etc which tend to get mild surface corrosion over winter.  Usually I wipe them with 3-in-one but that doesn't seem to last. I'll report back but it might take some time.

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I had the same problem in metal shed, I now run a dehumidifier set to only come on if needed when humidity gets to high. Not had the problem since, & I empty quite a lot of water out of it when conditions are damp.

Bob

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My underbody recipe is based on linseed oil, that has some anti-corrosion properties on steel (was used to protect bare metal surfaces way back). It will 'set' on its own as it oxidises in air, but that takes some weeks and it doesnt 'stay put' until then. So i mix it 50:50 with melted candle wax and then thin it with 10-20% kerosene or general solvent (roughly, just using a ruler dipped in the liquid). This mix must be sprayed-on hot, it 'sets' on contact with the cold metal - meaning you get a good layer thickness easily... the spray gets deep inside closed body & chassis sections. Over a few weeks the linseed oxidises and crosslinks and that hardens the layer...it doesnt go super solid, but it doenst run-off in tropical heat and its soft enough to not crack or delaminate.

Its cheap and it works...

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