pfenlon Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Revotec are very expensive and another "Fan motor can be had for oodles Less, buy how to switch it? what thread is the drain tap on the right hand side of the block Please pipe thread? 3/8" 1/2" if so I can get a switch and fit it here, also makes sense due to the rear of the block running hottest, i.e., furthest from the water pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Pete, I think it’s 1/2 UNF. At least that is the size of the block drain tap that Revington sell. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Hi Pete Revotec ? Have you fitted it or entertaining the 'cheaper' alternative ? I had a marginal ebay fan on LNK for years, it talked the talk but couldn't do the rest of it despite the noise it made. Swapped it out during lock down for a dedicated sucker Revotec. Difference was night and day and well worth the investment. I already had the generic temp switch in the down pipe with a manual override in the cab, just switched it over, no problem What temp switch were you using before ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Put a sender unit in the hose somewhere https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45mm-x-80mm-Hose-Joiner-M12-X-1-5-Boss-Adaptor-Water-Temp-Sensor-Sender-1-3-4/184379273578?hash=item2aeddc716a:g:DUMAAOSwlWJde9MQ Buy a branded automotive grade fan: Denso, Marelli, Valeo etc Fabricate a mount & a shroud Make sure you have enough Amps to run the fan...it could be drawing ~40 Amps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Pete fit the proper down tube with the boss in it https://www.revingtontr.com/product/130039sst/name/pipe-with-adaptor then fit the thermos switch like this other temp ranges available https://www.revingtontr.com/product/im50250/name/switch-thermo-on-88c-off-74c I use this fan 12” 220w version 12" 220w Aeroline® Electric Radiator / Intercooler 12v Cooling Fan Universal https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201162081812 with the plastic spring loaded through rad ties I also have a manual override switch work for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Agree with Hamish, downpipe temp controller is the way to go However, I'm not sure about the ebay fan. NOTE my comments refer to the best selling Aeroline, the 120W version. Hamish has the 220W which should be nearly twice as powerful and I'm sure has served him well. Whilst mine was the 120W version and, whilst drawing a lot of amps, was rubbish in operation, clearly underpowered. Replaced with the Revotec dedicated puller Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Pete I am sure you know this but there is also a range of thermo switches. In my experience, sensible to establish how your car runs heatwise before selecting the appropriate on / off temperatures. I tried 3 different thermo switches with different combinations on / off before identifying the combination that works best. Also, there is a wider range of thermo switches out there than just those from the usual suspects. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted November 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 12 hours ago, North London Mike said: Hi Pete Revotec ? Have you fitted it or entertaining the 'cheaper' alternative ? I had a marginal ebay fan on LNK for years, it talked the talk but couldn't do the rest of it despite the noise it made. Swapped it out during lock down for a dedicated sucker Revotec. Difference was night and day and well worth the investment. I already had the generic temp switch in the down pipe with a manual override in the cab, just switched it over, no problem What temp switch were you using before ? Haven't used any before still assembling my Imported TR4, and have gone down the narrow belt route. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted November 23, 2020 Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 I am driving a standard TR4A in Malaysia, ambient 30-32C, afternoon temperatures melting tarmac. I have original mechanical fan only, no shroud...not even the tropical fan ...just the 4blade metal contraption. Never boils, sits just past halfway on the gauge most of the time...will inch towards the red in afternoon traffic but never into the red and never burping water onto the floor (std expansion bottle). My advice above from my BMW 2002 experience...with air-conditioning so much more heat load. Denso fan, 80A alternator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted November 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Thanks to all great info and new ideas to think about. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 24, 2020 Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 I think that the TR4A has a somewhat wider core than the TR4, and so fills the width of the shroud and benefits from slightly more cooling. BTW, the metal "down tube" is really the up tube as it is returning coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the pump. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted November 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 10 hours ago, ianc said: I think that the TR4A has a somewhat wider core than the TR4, and so fills the width of the shroud and benefits from slightly more cooling. BTW, the metal "down tube" is really the up tube as it is returning coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the pump. Ian Cornish Thanks for that info am going with a kenlowe Switch, very kindly donated by a forum member, and will source a fan recommended by Dave (CTC) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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