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Started to strip a steering box today, having got it in bits a couple of questions please. The box had 7 shims beneath the end plate isn’t this excessive? I understand this is how you adjust endfloat!

other thing is the Stator tube has been cut along with the wires, can I use stainless steel tube? Need to cut the slot and also fit some kind of grommet as the anti rattle, had anyone made their own stator tube?

Phil

 

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22 minutes ago, PGB BME said:

Started to strip a steering box today, having got it in bits a couple of questions please. The box had 7 shims beneath the end plate isn’t this excessive? I understand this is how you adjust endfloat!

other thing is the Stator tube has been cut along with the wires, can I use stainless steel tube? Need to cut the slot and also fit some kind of grommet as the anti rattle, had anyone made their own stator tube?

Phil

 

Shims. You fit as many or few as required

Stator tube.  It is imperial sized tube. The little lantern, shaped anti rattle grippers are spring steel.  Maybe an o ring superglued to the tube would stay in place.  The anti rattle seals on the inner column certainly ca be o rings.
Cheers

Peter W

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Thanks for the reply Peter

does 7 shins indicate that the box had excessive play? Only the shaft peg and worm “look” in ok condition, I’ve got to do a full clean before reassembly

i assume I can’t do end float check until it’s reassembled with the steering wheel on?

Phil

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I stripped mine many years ago as the bearings were rusty and pitted. I put new bearings in and adjusted the shimming to fit as you will, I ended up with about 3 I think. Before you do that have a good look at the rocker shaft, the rocker shaft peg and the rocker shaft bush. I changed the bush and reamed it out to size and although the rocker shaft was slightly worn I put it all back together and it is remarkably play free. Definitely do the end float on the bench and the rocket shaft similarly, no steering wheel required. The most difficult bit is getting the steering wheel on at the correct angle to the steering position as this has to be done before you drive the car as the stator tube has to be out of the car to get a socket on the nut, having said that the tie rods can be adjusted.

The stator tube only touches at the top and bottom so it you can connect it to the head and get a oil resistant seal at the bottom I can not see a problem, beware they crack at the top where the slot ends. Obviously a few (5?) wires go down the middle so don't have the ID too small.

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I used a repro stator tube from Macey's. Stainless steel and where the Chinese lanterns would normally be there were short lengths of some thick heat shrink.

Stan

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The Peg can be pushed out with a hydraulic press, being very careful,no to bend the arm. Rotate the peg by 90 degrees and you have thousands of miles of driving to go, assuming the worm is in good condition. The Revington adjustable top plate is very good if the worm has the usual wear in the straight ahead position, allowing they play to be adjusted out without the peg and worm binding on full lock.

Iain

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Phil,

The only Imperial tube I could get in the UK was aluminium with a thick wall.

Using modern "Thin wall" wires to fit inside worked fine. They can take the required current for about 50% less overall thickness of each wire.

Charlie.

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Both my steering boxes ended up with 3-4 shims. It also depends on the shim thickness as to how many, they do come in different thicknesses, or used to.

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Used steel tube supplied by local brake and clutch workshop. Hardest part was to get the wires down the middle. 

I ended up putting a relay in the horn circuit so that it only required a very thin wire up the tube to actuate the horn. Used an old speedo inner cable to thread thru first then taped wires to it to pull them thru.

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Phil, if you want to save yourself some time, I have a stator tube you can have. My car was left hand drive and has been converted to steering rack. The LHD box was sold but I kept the stator tube.

Ralph.

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