Lebro Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) In the process of cleaning up the water pump prior to engine re-build I found three holes (identified by having drills pushed in them in the photo) The one near the grease nipple is connected to the underside of the nipple, so grease will try to escape from there, but it's under the gasket. Ditto the second hole in the face, but this one does not connect to the same area, & finally the third one in it's own boss, again cannot find out where that goes. They were all bunged up solidly when found. So what are they for ? The manual does not mention them. Bob. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) They are the channels to get the grease in and out between the bearings. This is the easiest way to drill them. After drilling them there is no need to plug them because they end on the water pump gasket. Don't worry. The sence of the "grease out" channel is not clear to me. Edited November 22, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 If you want to fit a new water pump seal - don't try to do it like told in the manual! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Some info and description here Bob. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/some-other-water-pump-questions.1528262.1528685/ H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 The drill holes in the gasket face are cross drillings that link the grease chamber around the bearing pack with the 1/ grease nipple drilling- for putting the grease in. 2/ the grease relief hole drilling to allow out air and excess grease so as not to have grease pumped into the carbon impeller water seal area. see image below from one I stripped specially for you this morning. If rebuilding your pump there has been good stuff written in this forum previously. My view is get the impeller vanes closer to the pump housing so the pump pumps rather than stirs. I fit a shim (usually 2mm!) in the base of the pump housing to zero the vane tip clearance then add a 15-25 thou gasket for minimal running clearance. - just done one for brother's engine. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 By the way: for the rebuilt I used the 4 pot seal from Moss which I had to modify, but a TR mate told me the TR6 water pump seal fits perfect for the TR2-4A out from the box. This is what I will use next, if I ever have to rebuilt one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 13 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: The drill holes in the gasket face are cross drillings that link the grease chamber around the bearing pack with the 1/ grease nipple drilling- for putting the grease in. 2/ the grease relief hole drilling to allow out air and excess grease so as not to have grease pumped into the carbon impeller water seal area. see image below from one I stripped specially for you this morning. If rebuilding your pump there has been good stuff written in this forum previously. My view is get the impeller vanes closer to the pump housing so the pump pumps rather than stirs. I fit a shim (usually 2mm!) in the base of the pump housing to zero the vane tip clearance then add a 15-25 thou gasket for minimal running clearance. - just done one for brother's engine. Cheers Peter W So should all the drillings go right into the center, 'cos only the one nearest the nipple seems to connect, If I block it, & pump grease in it does not emerge from the other two ? No, I am not planning to strip the pump, The bearings feel 100%, It did not leak water or grease, & I do not have any cooling problems, so "If it aint bust don't fix it" Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 25 minutes ago, Z320 said: By the way: for the rebuilt I used the 4 pot seal from Moss which I had to modify, but a TR mate told me the TR6 water pump seal fits perfect for the TR2-4A out from the box. This is what I will use next, if I ever have to rebuilt one. Correct the TR6 pump seal is essentially a TR2-4 pump seal but without the boot aroud the spring. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 The drill at the top is a weep hole, to let water out if the seal is leaking and not going into the bearing. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) Is that not what the slot at the bottom is for ? I think I get now, The grease nipple needs the 1st angled drilling (behind the gasket) to get grease to the bearings, & other hole (not covered by gasket) needs the 2nd angled drilling (behind the gasket) to allow excess grease to escape. This last one is currently blocked, so will open that one out, along with it's cross drilling. Bob Edited November 22, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Lebro said: Is that not what the slot at the bottom is for ? What I need to know is should I try to clear the hole not blocked by the gasket or should it be a dead end ? Bob Yes the two drill holes at the gasket face must be cleared as they connect in the pump bearing cavity. As must the two on the pump periphery -ie. The holes to the side of the pump adjacent to the grease nipple. These ones intersect each intersect the drillings from the gasket face to carry grease into or out of the bearing cavity. Get a twist drill into the hole from the gasket face nearest the boss with a drill hole, and then poke a bit of wire in that hole relief hole and you will feel the drill bit if it is gently turned. Proving the cross drilling connects. Do the clearing of all 4 drilled holes by finger twisting a suitable twist drill in them to clear the congealed and impacted grease. Warming with the hot air gun might also help. The slot at the bottom is the water seal leakage tell tale. Cheers Peter W Edited November 22, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Yep, as you see from above I had just realised how it all worked. Guess I was lucky not to have over greased it in the past, as the exit hole was well blocked ! Thanks for clearing that up. Bob. P.S. Have you got your block / crank back yet ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 No, sometime next week we are told for the block and liners. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 I always press grease in and want it going out through the bearings. And this is what it does. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) What do you think about this: the other hole is to get the air between the bearings out on a new or overhauled pump, otherwise by greasing the pump you press the air through the bearings. The air is "slim" enough to go through that tiny hole, when all the air is out the grease blocks the hole. Edited November 22, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) OK, checked the holes out, they were all clear, re-assembled, & pumped quite a bit of grease into it, & eventualy some popped out of the hole ! So all is well. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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