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Dear comrades I'm needing some help

I am now on Day 2 of trying to lift the head off my engine and after too much reading the summary is I need to get the studs out.  I have read the trick about using two nuts but the studs do not protrude far enough out to get two nuts on there so I am a little bit stuck.   Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi you are my only hope....!!!

 

Richard

Edited by AarhusTr6
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Hi Rich,

Soak the studs with WD-40 or similar, several times. It helps. 

Did you do the rope trick? I didn’t need to but others have done it. Make sure both valves are closed first.

Waldi

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Repeatedly squirt penetrating oil down the stud holes for 24 hours minimum. If the double nut trick doesn't work, a stud extractor like this one will most likely get them out:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/?da=1&TC=GS-040213986&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8WwddAyEsi6oEjaeJvwZ25INKAPx8MisQSwolvJJMXwEygNbtnzvjcaAkgLEALw_wcB

The studs will be chewed up and fit for scrap afterwards, but it's always best to fit new fasteners when replacing the head.

Good luck,

Nigel

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rope trick:  stuff rope into #1 & #6 cylinder.   rotate the engine.  The head will "pop" up (depending on how much rope was stuffed into the cylinder) up to 1/2 inch.  you can then slide progressively thicker devices (I like wood wedges) until fingers fit to pull it up.

I have yet to have a car this didn't work on, except for one where the pistons were stuck to the cylinder walls and couldn't rotate.

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8 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:

Repeatedly squirt penetrating oil down the stud holes for 24 hours minimum. If the double nut trick doesn't work, a stud extractor like this one will most likely get them out:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/?da=1&TC=GS-040213986&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8WwddAyEsi6oEjaeJvwZ25INKAPx8MisQSwolvJJMXwEygNbtnzvjcaAkgLEALw_wcB

The studs will be chewed up and fit for scrap afterwards, but it's always best to fit new fasteners when replacing the head.

Good luck,

Nigel

+1

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If I want to go "the nut way" I would us two half nuts,

or glue one nut with Loctite "strong" on the stud (with the bolt out you need heat get the nut off again).

 

By the way: I put all bolts out and then the bolts through the head when I changed the head gasket the second time,

because the first time, with the bolts in, the threads worked like files and oil coal felt out on the gasket. So it was not sealed.

My old father gave me this warning before but as a foolish child I did not believe him.

Edited by Z320
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16 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Rich,

Soak the studs with WD-40 or similar, several times. It helps. 

Did you do the rope trick? I didn’t need to but others have done it. Make sure both valves are closed first.

Waldi

They will be closed as you cannot remove the nuts with the rocker shaft in place 

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Yep banging with hammer, penetrating oil, heat more penetrating oil, big hammer, nuts welded on, basically try all of this and with sweat, perspiration lots of swearing you will succeed, it just sometimes takes some time- I had two bolts rusted in my head and after a week of trying it eventually came free- I wasn't going at it every hour for a week but spraying etc for maybe an hour or two each day as it was seized on solid! So we are all on here encouraging you to keep going keep going don't give up- it's only a furball lol.

 

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3 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi

I must admit to being nervous of the rope trick, so will see if I can borrow one of those tools for removing studs, also I do not have a welder.

Richard

Could be a wise move. I'd be worried about bending a con rod with the rope trick-it's mechanically very similar to  when a piston hydraulic locks with coolant after a head gasket leaks.

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Sorry Mike, the rope is nothing mechanically like hydraulic locking.    Its cotton or nylon and compresses.  It neither fills up the entire cylinder nor does it build up pressure in a closed system, but to each their own.   Been there, done this on the 2.5 probably a couple of dozen times.

Richard, good luck.

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9 hours ago, Mike C said:

Could be a wise move. I'd be worried about bending a con rod with the rope trick-it's mechanically very similar to  when a piston hydraulic locks with coolant after a head gasket leaks.

If you worry this please realize explosions of petrol hammer on the pistons and con rods when you drive the car

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I do not like the rope trick, although it will not do any harm in most cases.

But..... you put pressure on the rod without oil in the bearing, what also may be okay, because some oil maybe left after runing last time

 

and..... it is not similar to the combustion because the force is only that much as the torque around 20mkg at the crank. with the combustion the piston can move downwards to compensate the higher pressuere while burning. Must be much more complicated to calculate that but I would not torque the crank with piston half way up more than 20mkg.

 

My idea would be to make a platform sitting on all of the studs providing holes where the bolts for the posts of the rockers are. Remove the bolts, set threaded bars of proper length and torque them all step by step and I am sure no head can resist!

Edited by TriumphV8
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2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

I'll not use the rope trick again.

 

Bent conrod.jpg

Crikey ! is that off the Triumph 6 cyl range John ? 

Mick Richards

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When I ŕemoved the stuck head on my TR6 I made a couple of brackets to fit on the rocker studs and chained them to the rafters of the garage under tension, using some of the weight of the car (don't over do it). You could slacken the engine mounts and just use some of the weight of the engine.

This arrangement was left suspended for a few days with loads of penetrating fluid and occasional light tapping on the studs, I used a battery hammer drill with an old bolt in the chuck to rattle the studs.

George

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3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Crikey ! is that off the Triumph 6 cyl range John ? 

Mick Richards

In my defence - I may be gorilla shaped but not gorilla strengthed - I used the starter to try and shock off the head.

Nowadays, I'd ALWAYS remove ALL the studs  from an old engine before trying to remove the head.   It sticks to the sides of the studs, not to the face of the block.

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The rope trick works but don’t use the starter motor as it can put too much force and bend rods.

Use a long bar on the front pulley nut but not the starter.

Two nuts on the studs should allow most studs to be removed.

On reassembly use a smear of copper grease (or even better ceramic grease as it copes better with heat) on the studs so they don’t seize in the head.

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6 minutes ago, mtrehy said:

no they don't

Perhaps you could pad out this reply rather than wait for another 3 people to disagree to make your point ?

Mick Richards

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