Ralph Whitaker Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 The possibility of a short in the wiring always worries me, especially when you see pictures of cars on fire as posted recently on here. I am considering putting a fuse in the main feed from the starter solenoid to the ammeter. This would protect everything then between the solenoid and the main fuse box, the 2 fuses in the main fuse box should be protecting the permanent live and ign switched wiring. As I have an alternator it would need to cope with at least 40 amps at full charge, so was looking for a fuse holder and found these on fleabay. Does the panel think one of these would be suitable? Ralph https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-Reset-50-Amp-12V-48V-DC-Car-Boat-Auto-Waterproof-N/313264409591?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item48f0038bf7:g:SkIAAOSwFtFfjUeV&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkRjLZq23gAR%2BKma9gM2Z1hmjzUrIv2pDwDbcnr0Iq%2BVdS9dKx6JgBvJG5Lz4mCDClpcNxhz63xzILbNsk3zhCrOmzjiWjOdyU2XkubQ1hxEeMQA7bhk8VY4R9%2BMCvVs5QJ1qP%2FJ%2FVYudnrLCdVcnOOiSblc2yxWUUrXbUncilU%2FX9cc3%2BmwZCYJGfkgO9jzjkdkSRhT5PY8wUHluWlLsGOHQEqxh7LnQfOi5PjfVWr09UhlnLm0DRhUBnSbfA2CRMffW1IFST4slsPtKtfueT6FwpWcGZelKc94gnlU4Cgk3MVMD0zOc1k0h%2BR344fTFny5XVgCb9PMDH3uu2O8MetwrjiiMCxVUkCfBH9iS%2F3hiMlfvr9QM3ewazn%2Fn3er2XMXabfwtwR6P%2BuegaqLJZh8RmOziP%2FBFcotmWiuqtpcE7OSnx%2FS9RIW%2BdhFX4cwZaEZUF0GTlZJGM2dU6xh4y8rp4Q4%2FhZFRNJz%2FVXiiZsXbCQPhCeYY4THqInYIGUqDgjD2nEwjNN7tGLtvXdmROOMFS1SuWgJa%2FdgxvAJtWRxcfwdbRCdJgjz7GUB5Xq7e%2Bo3o%2FN%2FPU5WgdPNQTojj4X9ohcz79ZC3RaAnuUsuKjyYbIcIENz060U%2B2qEPWXqrPxFr5SSOtABZRqeYNioq47BASz%2BhIwq3RZ9fGL%2BK1Ct2L%2BYeBQM6Y7gsNS8bO0bnj93fsBMf86TObC9mcRoY1g7y0ktBFCPvYxkmkNG%2FCgkiN%2BWBioM%2BlClEnIvCjGqEE8ikze8KmFBIWTJw2mfFmnw%3D%3D|cksum%3A31326440959147bd03e53a58464c96cd19c61cbca50b|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524# Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 20, 2020 Report Share Posted November 20, 2020 Looks like it would do the job but there is no info on the actuation time versus overload current. 50A is the continuous-carry current and that is a bit high really. If the rated current is too high the device might not trip fast enough to save the wiring in the event of a fault. The actuation time is proportional to the overload current and a protection device even with 100% overload may take some seconds to operate depending on its specification. There is really no point in having anything higher than 40A - after all how often do you have the ammeter continuously hard against the end-stop ? A modern blade fuse or a similarly rated circuit-breaker will carry the rated current continuously without blowing . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted November 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 Taken your advise Rob and ordered an inline blade fuse holder and 40 amp fuses. Easier to fit anyway. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billy l Posted November 21, 2020 Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 Hi, I did this mod quite a few years ago, you may be able to see the three inline fuse holders sitting just on top of the solenoid, one is the main feed to the ammeter which from memory is rated at 35amps, the other two are used to supply the headlights and spot lights. Hope this helps, Cheers, Bill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted November 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2020 Nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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