Triumph TR3A Relays, voltage regulators, using a larger capacity fuse box to isolate circuits, different approaches or different situations?

[David Owen]

Based on a couple of comments from Ian Vincent and Bob I'd be interested in understanding who uses what and where and why.  As I am sure many others would be.

[Drewmotty]

There’s a bit in this newsletter about my improvements on the TR3

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2020/10/1758/In-The-Garage-June-2020

[Ian Vincent]

My TR3a doesn't have a standard loom it has a thing called a Powerblock which is a USA product that was sold by company called Advance Autowire.  I don't know if the company is still in business but here is a link to their website.  (FWIW Dan Masters the original owner of the company committed suicide a number of years back and although someone did purchase it, I'm not sure how long it continued to operate for).

Advance Autowire Website

If you follow the link you will see that the Powerblock is a board with a bunch of relays and fuses attached and which replaces the regulator, fusebox and flasher unit in a normal TR.  Mine is bolted underneath the battery box.  The result is pretty much the same as the electrical improvements described in the post above.  Pretty much everything is switched via a relay and the fuses are all modern blade fuses with indicator neons that light up if one blows - usually as a result of my being clumsy and shorting something out.

Rgds Ian

Edited November 16, 2020 by Ian Vincent

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

My Car -  has original type AutoSparks reproduction dynamo loom with my additions and reconnections.  AutoSparks produced my loom with additional cables to serve electric screen washers, electric radiator fan and gearbox switched twin reversing lights.  I regret not specifying  rear fog, front spots, rear electric fuel pump and alternator cables. but it was in 1990 when I had the loom made.

 

The top square black thing is the flasher relay plugged into a 3 pin headlamp connector plug - the hazard warning flasher relay is off to the far left and out of shot.

Oblong black thing on right is a Volvo 240 electrical terminal block. Here the 3 cables that would have been on the dynamo control box come together, this is because the car has an alternator.

Additional Lucas 2 fuse box to its left protecting ign and non ign powered circuits

Standard Lucas fuse box below it wired as original.

Additional power cable with yellow ring marker from alternator output connected to the starter solenoid battery side.  I have in addition a voltmeter as the ammeter operation is compromised by this connection.

Hazard flashers here May6th page 57

 

Cheers   

Peter W

 

Edited November 16, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[j-eichert]

My car is running on a slightly modified wiring loom. Based an the roiginal with:

- a relay mounted to the base of one horn: This is to use the horn push to power the relay instead of feeding all the power through the thin wires.

- two relays & snall boy for fuses mounted behind the pedals: This is top use the lighting switch & dip switch just to power the relays instead of feeding the whole power through the switches. Here I modified the wiring to the dip switch

Both places are used to minimise length of cablke and alterations to the wiring loom. So there was only some short length of additional cable necessary

 

Sorry - all pictures may seem to be "mirrored" for you .. its a LHD car

(top picture: yellow/green/red/blue is the wiring to the hazard flasher)

Regards, Johannes

Edited November 17, 2020 by j-eichert
adding picture

[Lebro]

Just like that !

[Black Forest TR3A]

My approach uses a modified second pedal box and the original blanking plate. Body is for RHD or LHD.

It allows to install 6 relays and 18 fuses (hanging down behind the glove box) and provides a switch (with key removable in on and off position) to cut (positive) earth.

Covered with the blanking plate the modification is unvisible.

Edited November 22, 2020 by Black Forest TR3A

[Nobbyc]

How far you want to go and how much you want to pay?

I made this up from parts bought on ebay for less than $50. Has 6 fuses activated by ign key and 6 fuses straight from battery as well as relays for lights, horns, fans and overdrive. Mounted on board below dash out of site but easy to access as board is hinged to swing into view.