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"Hogged" chassis


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I am starting a search for a TR6 and have, amongst other things, armed myself with the Roger Williams buyer's guide. Whilst it's mostly fairly clear, I am a little puzzled by the reference to a "hogged" chassis. The text (page 30) states if you stand away from the rear of the car and can see the rear crossmember something is amiss, which I can understand as the crossmember seems to sit above the chassis. However, the text under the photo shows the right rear chassis member visible (it's not a great photo) and that this shows that it has a "hogged" chassis. There is no actual explanantion of what "hogged" means, and on all the TR6s I've seen, including all three at ACA auction last week, the rear of both left and right rear chassis members have been visible from behind the car. 

I think I'm misunderstanding/misinterpreting this, so would really appreciate it if someone could put me right, please.

Many thanks

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Welcome to the forum and TR’s John. Good to read (and enjoy) first.

It means the rear legs are bend down. A tapered gap at the doors (top wider) is an indication. Caused by corrosion in the T-shirt area (the sandwiched plates) and/or  overloading the rear.

A “fix” is to add shims at the rear end to correct the door gaps, this will then show more of the rear chassis legs below the body.

Waldi

Edit: forgot to add: visit a meeting of the club, or another member of this forum near to you, that will be of good help too.

Edited by Waldi
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Hi John

As mentioned by Waldi 'Hogging' is where the front and rear f the chassis are lower than the middle - it looks like pig (hog) sideways on

If the middle is lower than the ends that is called 'sagging'

It is possible for the ends of the chassis to be lower than the valence and so visible. This could be simply bad body/chassis packing.

Or something more sinister.

 

Roger

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Many thanks for the replies. 

Any chance someone could post a pic of their rear to show what would be considered correct/acceptable, as even on a local car that I had a good look around the lower part of the rear chassis members were visible.

Thanks again. 

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Hi John, welcome to the forum.

Here's a couple of photos - the first is of my old 1970 unrestored 'survivor' (Saffy), the chassis rails are as per factory, so how they should be, you can just make them out if you click on the images. The second is my current 1972 TR6 (VUX), this was an extremely good home chassis up rebuild by the previous owner in 94-95 and is also spot on.

Another way to tell if the body is sitting correct and square on the chassis by running your eye along the bumper rear top edge and if is running parallel with the lower pressing on the rear valance (i.e. the bottom of the rear black panel) then it's probably been built right, or at least sitting square on the chassis. 

Cheers, Andrew

 

 

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Edited by Andrew Smith
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I've also gathered that when new, the ends of the frame rails fell about 3/4"  below the valence.  Another clue is that with a standard hanger, the stock tailpipe should hug the valence pretty closely.

This is my car after some pretty heroic efforts to fix the sagging rear.

Ed

 

IMG_2288a.JPG.jpg

Edited by ed_h
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To hide the rear rails can be done in a number of ways, not all of them are recommended for sure. Check and see if the rear cross member hasn’t been changed at some point and welded up incorrectly so not in the correct angle. But the main thing to check is the cross member t shirt area that imho is the weakest area and is nearly always rotted through under the t shirts so the sides of the rails may look ok but the top and bottom are shot and therefore looses the strength to support itself hence the hogging or sagging and gaps that change especially when on a two post lift. 

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Hi John

Here's a picture of mine, which is pretty standard, with about 1/2" visible below the rear valance. I'm sure this can vary if work has been done on the car, especially as the rear valance is a common rust victim...

There is no substitute for checking out any purchase on a ramp, or at least having it jacked up so you can see underneath, but I realise this is not always possible.

Cheers

Steve

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There is a region of the 'small chassis' Triumph that suffers similarly.   The chassis rails dip below the drive shafts, an dwatre can collect in the dip.

The TR6 chassi is flat, so I don't know why it should be affected so locally as Stuart has shown, but I suggest drain holes in any replacement panel, and that the holes should contain 'jiggle pins'  to keep them open.  Then water can escape.

JOhn

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1 hour ago, john.r.davies said:

 

The TR6 chassi is flat, so I don't know why it should be affected so locally as Stuart has shown, but I suggest drain holes in any replacement panel, and that the holes should contain 'jiggle pins'  to keep them open.  Then water can escape.

JOhn

The problem at that point is due to the swages that run into and above the side rails and the water lays in there and has nowhere to go (above picture shows the lower "T" shirt plate removed) the additional rot by the end of the outriggers is because the plate wasnt seam welded around the edge and water could lay in there too.

New repro"T" shirts dont have as long a swages so should stop that problem.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 094.jpg

Edited by stuart
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