davewhitefoot Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 I have still not solved my brake problem which featured in the forum some time ago. I have decided that having tried a number of potential cures/diagnostics suggested in the forum, for which, many thanks, I have decided to replace the master cylinder. Since I used to run TR2 and 3a in the 60's, 70's and 80's I must have changed a master cylinder at somwe time so why am I now having trouble? The issue is undoing the bottom bolt from below the cylinder. I think it is a bolt fed from the rear into a captive nut but I cannot see how I can get a spanner or socket onto the bolt head and wonder if I need to take off the mount for the brake and clutch master cylinders which appears to include the pedals as well. My unsympathetic brother in law has suggested putting a match to the car!! All suggestions gratefully received. Dave Whitefoot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 14, 2020 Report Share Posted November 14, 2020 I did that a job couple of months ago. I take it you have removed the rear access plate from the pedal box inside the footwell? (4 self-tapping screws) You then just need a long extension on a socket spanner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted November 15, 2020 Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 If you need to change the master cylinder there is only one company to use. A forum member in the USA did a trial experiment with new cylinders from different suppliers. They were cut to give a cross section and under microscopic inspection were all found to be very rough. This means a short life. Parts Parts will fit a new stainless steel liner and the seals which will last for a very long time. I had this leaking cylinder issue for years which spoilt the enjoyment of the car for me. After the initial success I had both m/cylinders and the clutch slave overhauled by Past Parts and all the leaking fluid problems have disappeared. I have years of different problems and a shortlist of reliable suppliers. Do not buy a new one Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davewhitefoot Posted November 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 On 11/14/2020 at 4:45 PM, RobH said: I did that a job couple of months ago. I take it you have removed the rear access plate from the pedal box inside the footwell? (4 self-tapping screws) You then just need a long extension on a socket spanner. Thanks RobH. I have of course looked for a removable plate but it all appears solid!. I think that a hole will have to be cut!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 13 minutes ago, davewhitefoot said: Thanks RobH. I have of course looked for a removable plate but it all appears solid!. I think that a hole will have to be cut!!! Not a good picture but your looking for the plate that fits this hole in the back of the pedal box. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 That is very odd - if it is solid how could the master cylinder have been attached in the first place? Surely no-one would have been so foolish as to weld the end plate up afterwards? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted November 16, 2020 Report Share Posted November 16, 2020 If it is indeed solid with no access plate, its fairly easy to take the whole mounting assembly off. It means disconnecting the clutch master too, but then when the pedal clevis pins have been removed undo the four nuts from the top and 2 bolts from underneath and the whole thing can be lifted off. The pedals should remain in place as there is another bolt right at the back holding the pedal bracket to the master cylinder pocket. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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