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EFI Cam Sensor


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This is really only for the extremely small subset of EFI folks going to sequential injection. I took a distributor, cut down the bell, turned the upper part cylindrical, 3D printed a sensor housing for fit n function, fabricated sensor housing, cut down the plate that the weights ride on to the proper duration, timed it all to the engine. Sensor is a powered Hall sensor from DIY auto tune.

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Nice work should give you some useful gains are you going to go down the COP route to get the most out of it?

Andy

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This looks a really well engineered solution, however being lazy I used my existing Lumenition Magnetronic points replacement which is just a hall sensor, ping out 5 of the metal segments on the plastic distributor shaft fitting, no metal work no drilling, then had a beer and put my feet up. If you are really keen take off distributor spring weights and wire up the weights, although as we only need to differentiate between cylinder 1 and 6 this should not be necessary.

Couldn't see much advantage in COP over wasted spark, plus COP on TR6 in my opinion just didn't look right.

John

 

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1 minute ago, RogerH said:

out of interest only - what is COP?

 

Roger

Morning Roger

"Coil on plug" most modern cars use this.

Andy

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

out of interest only - what is COP?

 

Roger

It was a nightmare when I had a company car as a Golf GTI as I had at least 5 sets of coils and Bosch had 50K on back order for the UK market from their plant in Brazil? Who said German cars are reliable? It was the worst car that I ever had?

Bruce.

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The car has used EDIS for the past 16 years and it has been pretty fool proof. I am keeping the EDIS. This was to facilitate changing over to sequential from batch injection.  As for COP, I would think supporting the coils would be problematic, leading to coils with small leads to each plug. Other than the ability to tailor timing to an individual cylinder, I don’t think COP would give much gain over the EDIS system.

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Thats a very nice solution CK my efforts looks very crude indeed by comparison. It only uses the signal from the bolt the wheel was just a convenient size. With the cap on it just looks normal.

I had terrible trouble getting a decent signal until it was suggested I use a drop down resistor to get a reliable earth. Then is was fine.

I think in reality the software really only uses the signal at startup to figure  which TDC is the compression stroke and uses the crank sensor after that. 

Regards Paul

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