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Drill them out.

Centre pop dowel and then increasing size drills until it collapses.

Mick Richards

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Hi Bob, there are two at the front to locate the water pump housing and one on the gearbox housing, only reason want to get them out is so I can stand the engine up either way to ferret about in the innards, I am learning as I go along!  Cheers, Andrew

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OK, I see. I have borrowed an engine stand, so should not need to remove them.

But with lockdown No. 2 immenent I doubt I will be able to take the parts which need machining / balancing etc anywhere for a month or so.

Ah well I could do the gearbox first I suppose, should be able to get the bits I need mail order form Moss

:mellow:

Bob.

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1 hour ago, AndrewMAshton said:

Hi Bob, there are two at the front to locate the water pump housing and one on the gearbox housing, only reason want to get them out is so I can stand the engine up either way to ferret about in the innards, I am learning as I go along!  Cheers, Andrew

Agreed there are two 5/16 dowels (DP514) in the front of the block that locate the front engine plate and timing cover and two 3/8" dowels (DP612) in the rear to locate the gearbox.  Oddly that is the same for both 4 and 6 cylinder TR2-6 engines.

Peter W

PS I also think they should be left alone unless they are damaged.

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+ 1  I've never replaced or had to remove these on any of the engines I've rebuilt but having the engines strapped to an engine manipulator allows you to rebuild with them in place.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Hi, thanks for the responses, I think Ed and I have some similarities! I realise no need to remove them so will work round it, I have purchased an engine stand for the rebuild so they will not get in the way, thanks again for the useful advice, Andrew

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