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Stuck clutch plate


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My TR2 hasn't run for around 20 years and unsurprisingly the clutch plate was stuck. I found the post below, and tried the suggestion of thoroughly warming the engine up, leaving it to stand for a bit, warming it up again, then starting in 4th with the clutch in. After a couple of attempts it seemed to free off, but with a major rattling sound. Now it rattles when the clutch is depressed but won't engage any gear. I guess something has broken? Any clues please?

Thanks, Brian

 

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1 hour ago, Brian Eldred said:

My TR2 hasn't run for around 20 years and unsurprisingly the clutch plate was stuck. I found the post below, and tried the suggestion of thoroughly warming the engine up, leaving it to stand for a bit, warming it up again, then starting in 4th with the clutch in. After a couple of attempts it seemed to free off, but with a major rattling sound. Now it rattles when the clutch is depressed but won't engage any gear. I guess something has broken? Any clues please?

Thanks, Brian

 

Hi Brian

Sounds like it’s inevitable that you’re have to remove the box.

Could be that the clutch plate centre hub or maybe the cover are broken with the rattling noise you describe. Exactly what you probably won’t know until it’s stripped down. I suspect the plate was firmly seized on the flywheel and trying to free it this way has damaged something.

Kevin

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Its possible that it had one of the 3 rivet clutch plates that were floating around some years ago, the centre of the plate breaks away from the outer section, There should be previous threads on here regarding this same problem.

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I've got the gearbox out, and the driven plate was firmly stuck to the flywheel, but otherwise I can't  see anything wrong with it, so the rattling noise is a mystery. The clutch fork and release bearing look OK too.

However there's a lot of lateral wiggle in the gearbox input shaft - about 3mm at the spigot. Is that normal?

One more question - the clutch is a Borg and Beck and looks new (the car has not run since it was restored c1997). Should I replace the plate as a matter of course, or will it be OK to clean the flywheel face and bolt it back on?

Clutch.jpg

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3mm wobble on the now unsupported end of the input shaft sound quite normal.

I would clean it all up & re-use if it looks new.  Check for anything loose in the cover that could be rattling

Bob

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Give the clutch plate, cover and flywheel a quick rub over with some emery to clean it up else it will only stick again before you get it back on the road.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

Give the clutch plate, cover and flywheel a quick rub over with some emery to clean it up else it will only stick again before you get it back on the road.

Stuart.

Will do, thanks for the tip Stuart. I'll be putting an overdrive box back in, so will be a while yet - and another challenge!

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27 minutes ago, jerrytr5 said:

I've never seen a clutch cover like that before. Where are all the fingers?

Jerry

ARF ARF ARF you are a tease Jerry.

Mick Richards

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8 hours ago, Brian Eldred said:

Will do, thanks for the tip Stuart. I'll be putting an overdrive box back in, so will be a while yet - and another challenge!

Have you whipped the top off the box to find out why it wouldn`t drive? Must be something broken in there.

Ralph.

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  • 6 months later...

Been reading all the clutch problems there is a simple solution.

For a long layup press the clutch and jam it down with a suitable piece of timber against the seat.

If you are worried about the hydraulics then jam the clutch release  arm under the car.

the pressure plate springs will survive this.  Discuss.

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