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TR4a/5/6 Rear camber adjustment


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Hi Guys,

Probably been discussed before, but is it possible to change out the mounting brackets on the above IRS set up to adjust the camber without having to strip down to the bare radius arm, ie  disconnect the brake hydraulics, remove the spring and pull out the hub and drive shaft. Neither of which is a 5 minute job and may have to be repeated if you don't achieve the desired effect first time.

My previous attempts to jack up the radius arm with spring and hub connected, and remove the pivot bolts and lower to get at the mounting bolts,  has ended in uncontrolled backward movement of  the radius arm and then not being able to relocate the bolts.

Has anybody achieved this?

I know that using adjustable resolves this problem, but would prefer to use original style brackets.

As a further point using say a 1 notch/3 notch bracket configuration, the centre line through the brackets/radius arm is badly out of line and in engineering terms is not ideal and must put undue stress on the bushes? I realise that this was how Triumph designed it but??

Regards

Rich

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Hi Rich,

when I did my re-camber correction I didn't like the look of that uncontrolled spring - so I did it the hard way.

With the brackets left a little loose they almost line up even with extreme notch positions. Then tighten down.

Are you using the BuckEye TRiumph  text to get your brackets right - it worked for me. 

Roger

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Hi Rich,

I did that a couple of months ago, jacked up the car under the chassis, removed the wheel, and then loosed (but not removed) the TA brackets one by one and part-supported the brake drum to relieve the bolts, and could then remove the bracket easily; second step was to measure toe-in and correct that  by adding/removing shims.

Waldi

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Your probably right Roger. I feel the same, bit of a sod that you have to remove the hub/drive shaft/hydraulics  to release the spring. Then its easy, hopefully you only have to do it once, but unlikely, probably again once the suspension settles down :wacko:. Adjusting the toe in by adding /deleting spacers is not such a problem as the pressure can be relieved on the bracket bolts as you suggest Waldi.

thanks 

Rich 

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1 minute ago, rvwp said:

Your probably right Roger. I feel the same, bit of a sod that you have to remove the hub/drive shaft/hydraulics  to release the spring. Then its easy, hopefully you only have to do it once, but unlikely, probably again once the suspension settles down :wacko:. Adjusting the toe in by adding /deleting spacers is not such a problem as the pressure can be relieved on the bracket bolts as you suggest Waldi.

thanks 

Rich 

You only need to disconnect the shock absorber link to allow the arm to drop enough to pop the spring out unless you have the misfortune to have CV shafts in which case yes you do have to remove shaft etc.

Stuart.

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6 hours ago, stuart said:

You only need to disconnect the shock absorber link to allow the arm to drop enough to pop the spring out unless you have the misfortune to have CV shafts in which case yes you do have to remove shaft etc.

Stuart.

If you undo the big outer nut holding the CV shaft bearing and push the shaft in slightly first, then you can just lower the radius arm sufficiently to pop the spring out.

Cheers Rob 

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Thanks Stuart,

I have standard drive shafts. Yes I remember now that I did manage to change the springs as you say when working on my TR6 12 years ago. However the 4A seemed not willing to give up it's spring so easily, I guess I could put a pair of spring compressors on the spring before releasing the shock absorber and it should then be OK then. Will try it today.

Thanks

Rich

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2 hours ago, rvwp said:

Thanks Stuart,

I have standard drive shafts. Yes I remember now that I did manage to change the springs as you say when working on my TR6 12 years ago. However the 4A seemed not willing to give up it's spring so easily, I guess I could put a pair of spring compressors on the spring before releasing the shock absorber and it should then be OK then. Will try it today.

Thanks

Rich

Easier to just jack up under the trailing arm and disconnect the shock and then lower, spring should come out with minimal fuss, some just fall out others just need a little encouragement with a tyre lever, theres no real compression on them at that stage.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

Ok, but  Is there enough slack  in the brake flexi to be able to drop the arm to drop down without disconnecting the brake lines to remove the brackets?

Thanks 

Rich

 

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Hi Rich, yes there is but do one bracket at a time and support the arm from underneath at all times, you may find the the inner pivot bolt has the head facing the chassis which is a bit of a pain and means you have to fiddle the long bracket bolts out first, but there is enough flexibility in the brake hoses to do this with care.

Cheers Rob

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