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Repositioning TR6 Alternator


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Hi All. Why is the TR6 so close to the engine block (see photo)?

It makes it very difficult to remove No 1 spark plug, as well as get a socket and wrench on the alternator nut when turning the engine over for TDC and timing checks etc, as well as heat effects from the block. I am thinking of moving it to the middle position between block and LHS wheel arch. Problem is that the fan belt wont be long enough nor will the existing elbow fixing bracket. 

On the assumption that a longer belt say 1400mm with same 9.5mm width is available, and I make a new longer fixing bracket, can anyone see any problems with this approach?

Just wondering if someone else has done this modification. Cheers, Colin.Alternator.JPG.434535450303442d5639fab0b820de0d.JPG

 

 

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Yes but not on a TR. Belts come in all sizes and widths so go to a motor factor or a belt motor factor near you. Don't just look at the usual autopart suppliers. I bought quite a few when I was experimating with different brackets. Usually the belt number is the length (circumfrance) and the other letters are the width and profile type.

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Thanks Richard, not looked into belt length yet as thinking of adding a marine type "turnbuckle adjuster" rather then the standard bracket, which is always tiresome difficult to adjust/tighten, as per the photo attached. 

 

turn img_4158_3_1.jpg

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Another way to make this is with a pair of small spherical bearings, with opposing threads in the neck.    A lengh of rod betyween, appropriately threaded and with a nut welded in the middle, and Voila!

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John shows us a male spherical, that would take a tube between it and it's pair.    A female spherical would take a length of rid (stop sniggering at the back!).  Mine's off the car at present - I'll try to find it and post a pic.

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Hello AIl

I have made up 2 from these people I just bought the cheaper ones (its not as though it is a suspension part!)

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/rod-ends-bearings-metric-rod-ends-accessories/

Roger

DSC01825.JPG

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19 minutes ago, iani said:

Here's one for £16

That is a standard rigging turnbuckle that has had part of the fork lopped off at one end Ian. Cheaper here but you have to do the lopping yourself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Turnbuckle-SENRISE-Closed-Rigging/dp/B07RZ77QSN/ref=sr_1_50?dchild=1&keywords=turnbuckle+rigging+tensioner&qid=1603805535&sr=8-50

 

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This just appeared on ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133558404638?fbclid=IwAR0Ygx5DhSFC7DnMZeIuMDkQdFM8ts5qZKxT4gg6mvxgjTpQaghjHNC7-Qs

 

It's an auction, all proceeds to the British Legion Poppy Fund, so get bidding!

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2 hours ago, RobH said:

That is a standard rigging turnbuckle that has had part of the fork lopped off at one end Ian. Cheaper here but you have to do the lopping yourself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Turnbuckle-SENRISE-Closed-Rigging/dp/B07RZ77QSN/ref=sr_1_50?dchild=1&keywords=turnbuckle+rigging+tensioner&qid=1603805535&sr=8-50

 

I was just trying to help the OP Rob, my own car has one with rose jointed ends

 

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I wasn't getting at you - just saying that someone on e-bay has a nice little earner for not much work. B)

 

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43 minutes ago, RobH said:

I wasn't getting at you - just saying that someone on e-bay has a nice little earner for not much work. B)

 

Indeed, I'm sure the pins would probably wear too as they are unlikely to be the right size, bound to be a bit of wear going on.

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I always used a Rover V8 spark plug spanner pt no GAT140 on my 6 cyl Triumph engines.  Designed and sold to get behind the manifolds on the Rover V8 engine in all its factory fitments.

There are two hexagon sizes for spark plugs and Jaguar specified the spark plug socket spanner in its XJ series tool kits that was the size correct for your car.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

Jaguar XJ tool kit case - Last one I had went to Ireland.

image.png.ff79d58e8077ce1181b534059d1f6545.png

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Just now, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I always used a Rover V8 spark plug spanner pt no GAT140 on my 6 cyl Triumph engines.  Designed and sold to get behind the manifolds on the Rover V8 engine in all its factory fitments. 

Jaguar also supplied it in their XJ series tool kits.  There are two hexagon sizes for spark plugs and Jaguar supplied the spark plug socket spanner correct for your car.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

Jaguar XJ tool kit case - Last one I had went to Ireland.

image.png.ff79d58e8077ce1181b534059d1f6545.png

 

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OK thanks to everyone that has replied, I have now got the general idea that a "turnbuckle" type adjuster is the way to go. 

As stated in the original post my reason was to move the alternator further away from the block was to get to No. 1 plug, and to get a spanner on the alternator nut without collision with the heater hose. I need to look at belt length and then choose an appropriate turnbuckle tensioner, which I will do.

So, will a longer fan belt suitable for moving the alternator approx 6 inches further away from the block upset the geometry/trigonometry, ie will the alternator or water pump run faster or slower? I`am an electronics engineer not mechanical !!

Cheers Colin.

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No it makes no difference Colin. The only thing that determines relative rotational speed is the diameter of the pulleys. 

Edited by RobH
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13 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Doesn't making the fan belt runs longer invite the belt to flap about at high revs, thus the suggestion of fitting a belt guide/tensioner?  Racers only I guess.

Peter W

I was about to make that point too, higher revs would encourage the belt to flip off, one of the reasons racers deleted the water pump for en electric one to get a shorter belt fitment.

Stuart.

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If you are going to use a spring loaded tensioner, it MUST go on the left (using above photo) between the crank and the water pump. The reason is that putting it on the right between crank and alternator will cause the tensioner to slacken when you blip the throttle as the crank pulls the right hand bit of belt to shorten the distance from alternator to crank.

Speak from experience.

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