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How do you attach a backlight (surrey top)?


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Last week I was able to purchase a (hopefully) original surrey top. How should you mount the backlight? Remove aluminum frames? Does the back cover come under the backlight?

Do all rubbers have to be replaced? 

The rubber between the backlight and the body is not included. Where can I buy it?

Thanks for the info :)!!

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Hi Joe,

The rear deck alloy trims which cover up the rear of cockpit edge need removing. Access is sometimes tight (especially if you fitted the alloy firewall I keep recommending behind the fibreboard in front of the petrol tank) but the nuts are accessible from underneath the rear deck. 

If you have a TR4a when you place the rear backlight over the rear deck edge you'll find the 2nd backlight stud each side doesn't have anything to go into on the rear deck ! The 4a and 5 models with the larger frames for the hood needed that area to fold into, and so the forward arm sections of the rear deck are "scalloped" out in that area such that the second stud in the backlight will miss the top edge and fit inside the cockpit. Most owners neatly (some are more successful than others) hacksaw off the second studs as high into the backlight as they are able which allows the backframe to then sit onto the rear deck edging. The furflex edging will need additional pieces to fit onto and across the backlight or the whole section replacing in one.

Stuart will be along shortly having done dozens of these and will confirm the best purchasers for said trim.

Mick Richards

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40 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Hi Joe,

The rear deck alloy trims which cover up the rear of cockpit edge need removing. Access is sometimes tight (especially if you fitted the alloy firewall I keep recommending behind the fibreboard in front of the petrol tank) but the nuts are accessible from underneath the rear deck. 

If you have a TR4a when you place the rear backlight over the rear deck edge you'll find the 2nd backlight stud each side doesn't have anything to go into on the rear deck ! The 4a and 5 models with the larger frames for the hood needed that area to fold into, and so the forward arm sections of the rear deck are "scalloped" out in that area such that the second stud in the backlight will miss the top edge and fit inside the cockpit. Most owners neatly (some are more successful than others) hacksaw off the second studs as high into the backlight as they are able which allows the backframe to then sit onto the rear deck edging. The furflex edging will need additional pieces to fit onto and across the backlight or the whole section replacing in one.

Stuart will be along shortly having done dozens of these and will confirm the best purchasers for said trim.

Mick Richards

Hi Mick, thanks for the info. It is an early TR4 (1962). Is it different than a TR4a?

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Hi Joe,

Yes the TR4 was the original fitment for the Surrey and it's backlight.

The forward arms for the TR4 are wider in the area of the second fixing, the first fixing is a threaded stud which screws into the top of the B post and a nut used to fix it down, and it has a small shaped (maybe 8" tall by 3" wide) plate which tucks into the window rubber trim hiding the screw and nut from view. The second stud fits into it's hole in the wider forward arm area (the TR4 has the the skinny rib build it yourself hood with emaciated sticks which doesn't need the extra scallop out of the forward arm) so you don't have to cut it, and then it's followed by all the other studs through their respective holes around the backlight.

Mick Richards  

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21 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Hi Joe,

Yes the TR4 was the original fitment for the Surrey and it's backlight.

The forward arms for the TR4 are wider in the area of the second fixing, the first fixing is a threaded stud which screws into the top of the B post and a nut used to fix it down, and it has a small shaped (maybe 8" tall by 3" wide) plate which tucks into the window rubber trim hiding the screw and nut from view. The second stud fits into it's hole in the wider forward arm area (the TR4 has the the skinny rib build it yourself hood with emaciated sticks which doesn't need the extra scallop out of the forward arm) so you don't have to cut it, and then it's followed by all the other studs through their respective holes around the backlight.

Mick Richards  

Ok, thanks Mick!!

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13 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Not sure about a 4 but the captive nuts under the rear deck of a 4A have to be drilled out to accept the studs of the Surrey frame.

Not fitted to a 4 originally.

Stuart.

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26 minutes ago, stuart said:

Not fitted to a 4 originally.

Stuart.

Thought not, not on mine. Stuart can you recommend the best supplier for the Furflex or rubber door trim, and how much to go around the windscreen and then the Surry backlight and frame, am I right in thinking 6 metre ?

Mick Richards

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28 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Thought not, not on mine. Stuart can you recommend the best supplier for the Furflex or rubber door trim, and how much to go around the windscreen and then the Surry backlight and frame, am I right in thinking 6 metre ?

Mick Richards

I.use this for door seals https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1285/door-seal

Then this for furflex https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/996/plush-snappon-edge-trim-black

Then the Moss seal for the sides and outside edge of the roof of the Surrey Numbers 5 and 38 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html

Stuart.

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Thanks Rob, it certainly eats up the lengths going around the frames and doors !

Mick Richards

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On 10/27/2020 at 11:52 AM, stuart said:

Thanks for the info!!!

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On 10/27/2020 at 11:52 AM, stuart said:

Do you think it's an original surrey? I think so but I'm not sure :)

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16 minutes ago, Grahamgl said:

Sorry to intrude on this thread but are the fixing studs removable/replaceable?

Thanks

Graham 
 

Not really unfortunately.

Stuart.

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47 minutes ago, Jo Neyskens said:

Do you think it's an original surrey? I think so but I'm not sure :)

 

 

 

Yes a very original Surrey and a nice find.

Stuart.

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Stuart,

Thanks for the reply. One of the studs on my back light has either broken or been cut short. How would you deal with that please?

Graham

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1 minute ago, Jo Neyskens said:

A few weeks ago I was able to purchase this for 400 € from an enthusiast. I've been looking for this one for a year. 

There is some work to do to but the price is ok I think. 

You stole that, they nominally make around £1500 here!

Stuart.

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Just now, Jo Neyskens said:

A few weeks ago I was able to purchase this for 400 € from an enthusiast. I've been looking for this one for a year. 

There is some work to do to but the price is ok I think. 

 

Just now, Jo Neyskens said:

A few weeks ago I was able to purchase this for 400 € from an enthusiast. I've been looking for this one for a year. 

There is some work to do to but the price is ok I think. 

 

Just now, Jo Neyskens said:

A few weeks ago I was able to purchase this for 400 € from an enthusiast. I've been looking for this one for a year. 

There is some work to do to but the price is ok I think. 

The enthusiast was especially interested in Ford Mustang and other brands. I don't think he knew this was special.

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7 minutes ago, Grahamgl said:

Stuart,

Thanks for the reply. One of the studs on my back light has either broken or been cut short. How would you deal with that please?

Graham

If its the first one back on the side then it will probably have been cut off to fit a 4a/5 if its another across the rear you may be able to carefully drill it out and helicoil a new one in.

Stuart.

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1 minute ago, stuart said:

If its the first one back on the side then it will probably have been cut off to fit a 4a/5 if its another across the rear you may be able to carefully drill it out and helicoil a new one in.

Stuart.

Does an early TR4 require drilling with an original Backlight? Or something else?

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