How do you attach a backlight (surrey top)?

[stuart]

1 minute ago, Jo Neyskens said:

Does an early TR4 require drilling with an original Backlight? Or something else?

No my reply was about some Surreys that have had the front stud cut off to fit the "Waisted" deck extensions on 4a/5. If fitting one of them to an early 4 with its original deck extensions then it doesnt matter if they arent there as the forward stud will hold it down enough.

Stuart.

[Motorsport Mickey]

43 minutes ago, Grahamgl said:

Stuart,

Thanks for the reply. One of the studs on my back light has either broken or been cut short. How would you deal with that please?

Graham

Hi Graham,

I believe these studs are like T bolts with a flat head which was encased in the mould when the frame was cast.
I had a similar repair to do on one in my backlight. I had my favourite body man dig out the remains which were mangled and spinning and replace with a stud with a nut welded on the end, then alloy welded into position, he said it welded ok.

 

Mick Richards

Edited October 29, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey

[Grahamgl]

Stuart,

I bought the backlight from a dealer so I do not know if it came off a 4  or a 4A.

Stuart and Micky,

Thanks for the advice.

Graham

[stuart]

15 hours ago, Jo Neyskens said:

Does an early TR4 require drilling with an original Backlight? Or something else?

No all the holes are there.

Stuart.

[Jo Neyskens]

2 hours ago, stuart said:

No all the holes are there.

Stuart.

Ok, thanks Stuart!!

[Jo Neyskens]

On 10/26/2020 at 9:35 PM, Geko said:

As the glass rubber seal looks alright, I humbly suggest NOT to remove the glass for painting.  

How can you see if it's ok? 

[Jo Neyskens]

On 10/27/2020 at 10:47 AM, stuart said:

Not fitted to a 4 originally.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart, How can you make the interior upholstery again or buy a new one?

[Jo Neyskens]

On 10/26/2020 at 9:35 PM, Geko said:

As the glass rubber seal looks alright, I humbly suggest NOT to remove the glass for painting.  

What a beautiful blue one!!!!! Great car!!!!

[Tim T]

Mine came from the TR Shop and was good. Be aware though that there is no excess material for trimming on the headlining, and very little on the other pieces.

Tim

[Jo Neyskens]

23 minutes ago, Tim T said:

Mine came from the TR Shop and was good. Be aware though that there is no excess material for trimming on the headlining, and very little on the other pieces.

Tim

Thanks for the pics!!

[Jo Neyskens]

Hi guys, 

another question :). Today I took off the aluminum frames. Will the covering get under the rubber of the surrey? It fits nicely in all holes. In the front there is a hole in the surrey and also in the body. Do you need a locking pin in there? 

How do I attach the surrey to the body? Just tighten with nuts? Is that strong enough not to fall off?

In the meantime I have covered everything (glass, rubber) and sanded and cleaned the aluminum. Just prime and spray?

Thanks for the info!!!  

[stuart]

With the rubber fitted around the base of the Surrey it does cover the holes from the studs but it might be a good ide to add a little sealer to each hole. The front hole needs a stud fitting into it. Part number FHS2410. Yes the nuts around the back do hold it down very well.

Stuart.

[Motorsport Mickey]

This link may help with how the parts go together and the Surrey (the soft top) or Hard top panel fits between the backlight and front windscreen.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html

Mick Richards

 

[Jo Neyskens]

3 hours ago, stuart said:

With the rubber fitted around the base of the Surrey it does cover the holes from the studs but it might be a good ide to add a little sealer to each hole. The front hole needs a stud fitting into it. Part number FHS2410. Yes the nuts around the back do hold it down very well.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart!!

[Jo Neyskens]

3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

This link may help with how the parts go together and the Surrey (the soft top) or Hard top panel fits between the backlight and front windscreen.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html

Mick Richards

 

Thanks Mick!!

[Jo Neyskens]

18 hours ago, stuart said:

With the rubber fitted around the base of the Surrey it does cover the holes from the studs but it might be a good ide to add a little sealer to each hole. The front hole needs a stud fitting into it. Part number FHS2410. Yes the nuts around the back do hold it down very well.

Stuart.

Hi guys, do I need to remove the white sticks from the hood? Is the interior going under the seal of the surrey (without the alu of course :)) ? Taped or glue?

Thanks for the info!!!!!!

[stuart]

Yes remove the hood sticks though I would put the screws back into the mounting plate so it doesnt rattle.

Stuart.

[keith1948]

One tip - DO NOT mark the white vinyl headlining with a biro pen on the back for fitting purposes. The ink will gradually work its way through to the front requiring you to paint the vinyl with vinyl spray. Guess how I know this!

Also the pattern on the original 1960's vinyl is different to that you can get now. Originally best described as fine lines in a checker plate design. 

On one of your photos the plastic beading that fits into the rubber screen surround has quite a gap where the two ends meet. This means that the little clip that fits over the join will be too short. (Mine has a similar problem). Not sure what the solution might be (buy a longer length?). Does anyone know if you can get longer joining clips?

Making a new headlining for a hard top requires the original as a pattern and some skill with a sewing machine if you are making it from a roll of vinyl. Err on the side of making it a tight fit over the metal frame that holds it in place because there is some 'give' in the vinyl.

I don't remember having any problems removing and refitting the backlight. I did it with the backlight frame off the car. I used hot water to soften the plastic filler beading strip so it would fit round the tight bends easier.

Good luck

Keith

[stuart]

15 minutes ago, keith1948 said:

One tip - DO NOT mark the white vinyl headlining with a biro pen on the back for fitting purposes. The ink will gradually work its way through to the front requiring you to paint the vinyl with vinyl spray. Guess how I know this!

Also the pattern on the original 1960's vinyl is different to that you can get now. Originally best described as fine lines in a checker plate design. 

On one of your photos the plastic beading that fits into the rubber screen surround has quite a gap where the two ends meet. This means that the little clip that fits over the join will be too short. (Mine has a similar problem). Not sure what the solution might be (buy a longer length?). Does anyone know if you can get longer joining clips?

Making a new headlining for a hard top requires the original as a pattern and some skill with a sewing machine if you are making it from a roll of vinyl. Err on the side of making it a tight fit over the metal frame that holds it in place because there is some 'give' in the vinyl.

I don't remember having any problems removing and refitting the backlight. I did it with the backlight frame off the car. I used hot water to soften the plastic filler beading strip so it would fit round the tight bends easier.

Good luck

Keith

The new Moss kit does have the correct pattern, When doing any trim you should only use a dress makers chalk or a crayon marker regardless.

Stuart.

[Motorsport Mickey]

1 hour ago, keith1948 said:

One tip - DO NOT mark the white vinyl headlining with a biro pen on the back for fitting purposes. The ink will gradually work its way through to the front requiring you to paint the vinyl with vinyl spray. Guess how I know this!

Also the pattern on the original 1960's vinyl is different to that you can get now. Originally best described as fine lines in a checker plate design. 

On one of your photos the plastic beading that fits into the rubber screen surround has quite a gap where the two ends meet. This means that the little clip that fits over the join will be too short. (Mine has a similar problem). Not sure what the solution might be (buy a longer length?). Does anyone know if you can get longer joining clips?

Making a new headlining for a hard top requires the original as a pattern and some skill with a sewing machine if you are making it from a roll of vinyl. Err on the side of making it a tight fit over the metal frame that holds it in place because there is some 'give' in the vinyl.

I don't remember having any problems removing and refitting the backlight. I did it with the backlight frame off the car. I used hot water to soften the plastic filler beading strip so it would fit round the tight bends easier.

Good luck

Keith

The original fitment is a shaped stainless steel trim so the length is fixed and the trim slid on clip obviously covers the join. Otherwise buy a longer length of the plastic trim and fit it in November when the car comes off the road leaving the trim a couple of inches or more long sticking out the rubber at the join, and take a look at it again in March when it will have shrunk and the trim pulled back into the rubber. Then you can cut it to length which hopefully won't move any more and you can fit the trim overclip.

Mick Richards

[stuart]

You used to be able to buy a longer joiner clip to get over that problem though Ive not seen any for a while.

Stuart.

[Jo Neyskens]

2 hours ago, stuart said:

Yes remove the hood sticks though I would put the screws back into the mounting plate so it doesnt rattle.

Stuart.

Thanks for the reply, Stuart!!!

[Jo Neyskens]

2 hours ago, keith1948 said:

One tip - DO NOT mark the white vinyl headlining with a biro pen on the back for fitting purposes. The ink will gradually work its way through to the front requiring you to paint the vinyl with vinyl spray. Guess how I know this!

Also the pattern on the original 1960's vinyl is different to that you can get now. Originally best described as fine lines in a checker plate design. 

On one of your photos the plastic beading that fits into the rubber screen surround has quite a gap where the two ends meet. This means that the little clip that fits over the join will be too short. (Mine has a similar problem). Not sure what the solution might be (buy a longer length?). Does anyone know if you can get longer joining clips?

Making a new headlining for a hard top requires the original as a pattern and some skill with a sewing machine if you are making it from a roll of vinyl. Err on the side of making it a tight fit over the metal frame that holds it in place because there is some 'give' in the vinyl.

I don't remember having any problems removing and refitting the backlight. I did it with the backlight frame off the car. I used hot water to soften the plastic filler beading strip so it would fit round the tight bends easier.

Good luck

Keith

Thanks for the information, Keith!!

[Jo Neyskens]

1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

The original fitment is a shaped stainless steel trim so the length is fixed and the trim slid on clip obviously covers the join. Otherwise buy a longer length of the plastic trim and fit it in November when the car comes off the road leaving the trim a couple of inches or more long sticking out the rubber at the join, and take a look at it again in March when it will have shrunk and the trim pulled back into the rubber. Then you can cut it to length which hopefully won't move any more and you can fit the trim overclip.

Mick Richards

Great tip :)!!

[Geko]

is the window Persplex or glass ?