Ali King Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 My lower wishbone bracket is loose and only has one stud (thanks for identifying this for me trchris), so I need to replace all four (I think) with two stud versions. I plan to attempt this myself and have the car up on stands at the moment. It looks like there are no shims - is this normal? I've read on the forum that I should consider having strengthening brackets welded to the chassis, which I cannot do myself. Does anyone know of a good reliable welder, ideally who knows this job, who could do it for me at my home? I understand they can be done in situ. Failing that, I suppose I could put it back together again and take it somewhere - can anyone suggest where I could take it? I'm not far from the A1 at Newark. Also, the rear offside bracket (also slightly loose) seems to sit at a slight angle - is that ok? You will see from the colour in the pic that it looks like someone has tried to braze the bracket, I wonder if they were just trying to bodge/fix it? Thanks for any help. Alistair. 1st offside front, 2nd offside rear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Ali - I cant answer your welding queries, as I am too far away, but as far as your suspension brackets are concerned: 1. All original TR6 lower suspension brackets were 2 stud jobs, so if you only now have one stud/nut, either one has broken off or someone has fitted an early 4A one stud bracket. Bit worrying. 2. If you had a two stud bracket, the bracket can't really tilt unless the mounting holes in the chassis have worn oval ( which they could if the bracket was loose). 3. One would normally expect to see some shims somewhere on the lower mounting brackets and the fact there aren't any ( as you say) suggests to me someone has done has just thrown the front suspension together without any care - might be worth checking if your original parts are for sale somewhere else in an auction! 4. Brazing on those chassis mountings would also be a concern to me, if indeed that is what the brassy colour in your photo is. Given all the above, I think you need to have a very close look at all the suspension/safety related components on your car - probably not what you want to hear but you can't be too careful Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ali King Posted October 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Rich, just to be clear mine is a '66 4A - I think one stud may have been original? But it does raise the point that if I am to convert to two studs presumably the alignment has to be better - or should I leave one stud brackets in the rear. If not, do I drill the second hole in the chassis exactly where the second stud in the bracket falls naturally? And how would I do that anyway? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Ali - dozy me - I don't know why I thought your car was a 6 - I was half asleep watching the F1 as it was so boring! One stud on the 4A was original but was supposed to have been replaced by ST garages when cars were serviced, but very few appear to have been done. I would get some new, twin studded brackets, fit all round and then drill your mountings to match the twin stud pattern - not too difficult - I made a template out of some steel plate, drilled two holes in it to match the bracket and then bolted it in the existing hole and used the other hole as my drill guide. However, do thoroughly check the mounting brackets - if the existing holes have worn oval, then you will need to repair those at the same time and also check then for distortion/cracking. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Also fit a plate behind to spread the load from the nuts, do the same at the rear, there are photos knocking around on here to show the results of fitting washers on the rear instead of plates, and my CTM chassis was less than 10 yeas old!, cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 1 hour ago, AndrewMAshton said: Also fit a plate behind to spread the load from the nuts, do the same at the rear, there are photos knocking around on here to show the results of fitting washers on the rear instead of plates, and my CTM chassis was less than 10 yeas old!, cheers, Andrew Only if fitted badly, Ive not come across that on the fronts, The two hole/stud conversion is a good idea anyway regardless, you can get lower brackets with longer studs from Revingtons and there are re-enforcing plates available that just slip in behind the mounting bracket to spread the load without needing to be welded in, there are also a kit of extra plates that can be welded to the sides of the mounting bracket box as well. Pictures of single and double hole mounts. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 I used the two stud bracket/plate conversion from Revington on my TR4A. Worked great. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Stuart, and you have reminded me as well, you need the brackets with the longer studs from Revingtons to get the plate and nuts behind, after the damage to the chassis leg on the rear I was taking no chances! Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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