Jump to content

TR3 engine & box re-build


Recommended Posts

Getting closer....

The aluminium bar stock arrived so tonight is bluing and scribing and perhaps drilling out shape night.

The idea is to create a frame to hold my dial indicator and some 6 mm silver steel as the other anvil.  I think the 20mm throat depth may need changing, but that can happen on the fly as I test it with a con rod.

Have bought 8 off 1.5 long 3/8 unf cap screws to use as slaves for assembly test purposes rather than torquing the ARP bolts up continually.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

 

 

 

Bolt Stretch Gauge 5.jpg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 478
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can't see the picture Peter, screen says "Page not found"

OK, removed the head today, & after re- clamping the liners diagonally, to try to stop them leaning over, I got these results:

     4½      4½            3½    3½         4½   4½        4     4½

     4         4½            3½    3½         3½   4½        4     3½        front

I don't think I can improve on these, I did try swapping liners 3 & 4, but that made things worse.

So, spun the block over, & fitted the crank along with the centralised Christian Marx oil seal. mains torqued up, crank still turns easily.

916906167_Crankinwithoilseal.thumb.jpg.2ec5a52a61d497474eccc9069ddc7882.jpg

More assembly tomorrow.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Bob. 
I think you are right it should be close enough for the gasket to cope. Or it could be like levelling up a table and they’ll end up too short. 
 

love the look of that nice clean engine. 
H

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good work Bob, 1 thou mismatch “ain’t too shabby, ” getting into the realms  of measuring variability,  should have a good seal across the head. 
 

Mick richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob

elin In Canada did a YouTube engine rebuild. 
 

his crank cap has something but not a brass plug. 
 

 

 

6C3885E6-E866-41D3-B882-6E1DFCB197D2.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a new one, never seen that brass nut before on any I’ve rebuilt, and I’ve 5 engines on their backs now in the workshop that don’t have them either.

That spout inside the brass nut attaches to the drilling that goes through the cap emerging on the large dia of the rear oil scroll housing in the cap. Only thing I can think is the hole is there to channel any excess oil that travels between scroll housing and scroll alloy holder back into the block to avoid leaks and a pressure buildup. Maybe the nut is smaller internal dia to reduce flow out of the cap ? how does it fix on ? push fit with a stalk into the hole ? or some rudimentary screw thread ? I’m not sure I’d like the possibility of a nut roaming around next to a spinning crank even if it is brass.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Will investigate,  it must be something the factory put in. I don't think it is a nut, more the hex end of a screw with a hole running through it.

Maybe that's how they all start out (to screw it into the cap) then the hex is normally machined off, but not in my case ?

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

They all have some sort of small drain ? Hole so probably needs some form of restriction rather than a large aperture 

 

F992F4B0-6F59-4892-BB7F-925612663ED8.jpeg

8F274375-7ED8-4641-9DAD-6AE3AC878693.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The TR2 workshop manual make things a bit clearer, The spout is for returning oil to the sump which has been collected by the scroll, the much smaller drilling (with brass cap in my case) is to collect any oil which makes it past the scroll, & with the Christian Marx seal fitted, it is vital as it is the only way oil stopped by the viton seal can return to the sump. I will be checking that that passage is open right down to the crank.

Bob.

20201215_095912.thumb.jpg.8e40e4c05b7485389828fadaaf8b85ce.jpg

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

you have done well identifying the mystery brass hex head.  As you said the hex is to get the restrictor in place.

I would suggest that the process would be to continue tightening until it sheared off - but they didn't do that bit.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at some of the photos above I think it is machined off along with the sump gasket face. Mine being an FRE engine, maybe they replaced that plug, but did not need to machine it as the gasket face was already done, & the hex does not interfere with anything

Link to post
Share on other sites

20201215_112920.thumb.jpg.e82e6f0ee6293e15346cb2e63e5877c5.jpg

It is just a screw in restrictor, I guess to prevent oil splash from going the wrong way from the sump to the outside world, as that is where the drilling ends up if you don't have the C.M. seal as well.

Question now is is it better to replace it, & restrict oil returning to the sump, or leave it out. ??

My inclination is to leave it out

Bob

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites

I bow to your better engineering prowess but all the others have a small hole. I’d be tempted to put it back as it’s been working ok for a few decades. Perhaps thread lock and lock wire to the spout ?

Just my 1/2penny worth  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Hamish said:

I bow to your better engineering prowess but all the others have a small hole. I’d be tempted to put it back as it’s been working ok for a few decades. Perhaps thread lock and lock wire to the spout ?

Just my 1/2penny worth  

 

+ 1

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob,  I don't know hence the.......

I used the Revington seal and was told to ensure that drain was clear. It wasn't, it was full of carbonised oil that I used a fine drill twisted by hand to clean out.

Iain

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the CM seal - seals the oil way then I suppose not needed 

I think I have the same seal system as Iain.

But what’s the harm in fitting it. If properly secured. 
 

 

386CAC95-F518-490C-9D1D-BF522FD18ADB.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The CM system does not seal the oilway, but it is between the oilway, & the outside world, & needs that oilway to return oil to the sump (any that gets past the scroll.  Anyway, I will bow to the collective opinion that I should put it back !.

So, aside from that, I now have fitted the cam, front plate, & gone through the cam timing procedure. The Newman cam is supposed to be setup so that you can use the original timing marks on the pulleys, But I wanted to check that against the full method of setting crank at 110° ATDC, & then turning the cam to get full lift of inlet valve on No. 1.  I used a dial gauge onto a steel rod conveniently the right size to fit into a cam follower nicely with no slop, marked the cam sprocket in two places of equal height below the peak, then marked the sprocket half way between.

836174796_SettingValvetiming1.thumb.jpg.cbf6f1c4110300c043bd6ea6ab1dd83f.jpg   747653136_SettingValvetiming2.thumb.jpg.3c87c82047dd7cf958f5d9ff89590811.jpg 862752143_SettingValvetiming3.thumb.jpg.c8c92ce1dbb19c5019b81d9125dc0dcd.jpg  696731090_Timingdonecoveron.thumb.jpg.aaff34b4cafaf723bebe23d9669fba2a.jpg

   

Without moving crank or cam, removed the cam sprocket, slipped the chain over, & replaced. well it was slightly out, about ½ a tooth, so I turned the cam sprocket over, & repeated the procedure. This time I was able to attach the sprocket in the right place. I then turned the crank to TDC, & using a straight edge I marked the cam sprocket where it was opposite the existing mark on the crank sprocket. then removed the cam sprocket to make that mark permanent with a chisel.

Whilst at TDC, I put the cam sprocket back on the original way round to see how close the original markings aligned, they were close, but ½ tooth out, so glad I did it the long way.

Happy with that tightened everything up, & fitted timing cover.

 

Bob.

 

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Hamish said:

Bob

elin In Canada did a YouTube engine rebuild. 
 

his crank cap has something but not a brass plug. 
 

 

Have watched this series now, useful, but - he did not use a mandrel to center the crank oil seal, he cocked up the valve timing, & he fitted the oil thower on the crank the wrong way round !

Bob

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.