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TR3 engine & box re-build


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2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Because a little like the Irishman who when asked how to get to a place replied "well...I wouldn't start from here" !

Adrian has rebuilt his engine and lovingly covered all the important surfaces with oil or engine build paste, cam followers lubed with break in paste, cam follower lobes covered with the same paste. Engine liners lubed with oil or engine build paste, every surface covered with products helpful for the breaking in and preservation of machined surfaces...and the car after initial starting will not be used for about 2 years. So all lubrication and preservative will be wiped from surfaces or will drip off, that's not an ideal situation.

Components that run close tolerances will have the chance to partially seize and the natural heating and cooling of the engine within the garage will allow condensation to form inside the engine. Regular starting of the engine to boil off condensation can go some way but as I say it's not ideal.

I would seal the engine up in every airway into it (tape or clingfilm) and leave the starting of it until it is installed in the car ready to go. Oh...and I think Stuart is on the money for oils to be used. 

So, that may not fit in with what people think but it's what I would do.

Mick Richards

We used to ship aircraft piston engines ( P&W radials) after re manufacturing with desiccant packed spark plugs fitted.   Plus all orifices were blanked.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/171072239829





 

82DFCCB6-8329-4696-A964-F4BD82FC3FF6.jpeg

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16 hours ago, DavidBee said:

Stuart, hi! Question for you: and what about semi-synthetic in 4-cylinder TRs?

Ciao,

  David

TBH I wouldnt use anything other than what I recommended earlier in this thread, what anyone else uses is their choice.

Stuart.

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On 11/27/2021 at 11:41 AM, stuart said:

TBH I wouldnt use anything other than what I recommended earlier in this thread, what anyone else uses is their choice.

Stuart.

Thanks, Stuart, 

If I am not mistaken, either Racetorations or Revington recommended semi- for modified engines. Tighter tolerances was the reason, but I may be totally wrong, as I often am. If not wrong this time, I am left wondering, because of differing opinions. One thing is for sure, I'm no expert, so that makes things WORSE :)

Ciao,

  David

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  • 1 year later...
On 12/26/2020 at 3:47 PM, Lebro said:

Put a few more miles on the clock today (since weather is downhill from now) went up the motorway to junction 6, turned round, went to junction 10, then came back through Cobham, around 55 miles. all going well. oil pressure holding up well at 70 at 2000RPM, dropping to 20 at slow tickover (very hot by then) & it is only running in oil.

Just done a compression check -  209  200 203  206  PSI  was around 180 before the rebuild.

In tidying up, I took the rings off the old pistons, & noticed that the top ring on one of them had worn extremely thin

4800e0aa-0005-48ac-99ed-cef3e0d612c1.thumb.jpg.6c197b430ee8781850b68bd88ddc0799.jpg

4000 Miles later, another compression check comes out at    220   208   220   216 PSI

Seems to be using a bit of oil, not enough that I am worried about it, I get a puff of blue smoke at start up, but nothing visible after that, and there are no leaks. OIl pressure is excellent at all revs & temperatures.

I do have to be careful with the ignition timing, a bit too advanced and it does pink (E5 99 RON fuel used) but performance is satisfyingly improved over standard. I will put it on a rolling road one day to see what it is actually doing.

Bob

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