BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Getting closer.... The aluminium bar stock arrived so tonight is bluing and scribing and perhaps drilling out shape night. The idea is to create a frame to hold my dial indicator and some 6 mm silver steel as the other anvil. I think the 20mm throat depth may need changing, but that can happen on the fly as I test it with a con rod. Have bought 8 off 1.5 long 3/8 unf cap screws to use as slaves for assembly test purposes rather than torquing the ARP bolts up continually. Cheers Peter W Edited December 14, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Can't see the picture Peter, screen says "Page not found" OK, removed the head today, & after re- clamping the liners diagonally, to try to stop them leaning over, I got these results: 4½ 4½ 3½ 3½ 4½ 4½ 4 4½ 4 4½ 3½ 3½ 3½ 4½ 4 3½ front I don't think I can improve on these, I did try swapping liners 3 & 4, but that made things worse. So, spun the block over, & fitted the crank along with the centralised Christian Marx oil seal. mains torqued up, crank still turns easily. More assembly tomorrow. Bob. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Well done Bob. I think you are right it should be close enough for the gasket to cope. Or it could be like levelling up a table and they’ll end up too short. love the look of that nice clean engine. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Good work Bob, 1 thou mismatch “ain’t too shabby, ” getting into the realms of measuring variability, should have a good seal across the head. Mick richards Edited December 14, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 (edited) Anyone know what the hex headed brass plug is for on the rear main bearing cap ? Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Bob elin In Canada did a YouTube engine rebuild. his crank cap has something but not a brass plug. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Lebro said: Anyone know what the hex headed brass plug is for on the rear main bearing cap ? I don't recall having one in my engine. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Hi Bob no Brass plug on my engine rebuild before or after. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Mine is a drilled brass plug in the rear main cap like others. is this photo viewable now? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) That’s a new one, never seen that brass nut before on any I’ve rebuilt, and I’ve 5 engines on their backs now in the workshop that don’t have them either. That spout inside the brass nut attaches to the drilling that goes through the cap emerging on the large dia of the rear oil scroll housing in the cap. Only thing I can think is the hole is there to channel any excess oil that travels between scroll housing and scroll alloy holder back into the block to avoid leaks and a pressure buildup. Maybe the nut is smaller internal dia to reduce flow out of the cap ? how does it fix on ? push fit with a stalk into the hole ? or some rudimentary screw thread ? I’m not sure I’d like the possibility of a nut roaming around next to a spinning crank even if it is brass. Mick Richards Edited December 15, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Will investigate, it must be something the factory put in. I don't think it is a nut, more the hex end of a screw with a hole running through it. Maybe that's how they all start out (to screw it into the cap) then the hex is normally machined off, but not in my case ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 They all have some sort of small drain ? Hole so probably needs some form of restriction rather than a large aperture Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) The TR2 workshop manual make things a bit clearer, The spout is for returning oil to the sump which has been collected by the scroll, the much smaller drilling (with brass cap in my case) is to collect any oil which makes it past the scroll, & with the Christian Marx seal fitted, it is vital as it is the only way oil stopped by the viton seal can return to the sump. I will be checking that that passage is open right down to the crank. Bob. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Bob that a good spot, but why had yours been capped? As you say it is essential for oil return and is often just gunged up after decades of hiding, unattended Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hi Bob, you have done well identifying the mystery brass hex head. As you said the hex is to get the restrictor in place. I would suggest that the process would be to continue tightening until it sheared off - but they didn't do that bit. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Looking at some of the photos above I think it is machined off along with the sump gasket face. Mine being an FRE engine, maybe they replaced that plug, but did not need to machine it as the gasket face was already done, & the hex does not interfere with anything Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) It is just a screw in restrictor, I guess to prevent oil splash from going the wrong way from the sump to the outside world, as that is where the drilling ends up if you don't have the C.M. seal as well. Question now is is it better to replace it, & restrict oil returning to the sump, or leave it out. ?? My inclination is to leave it out Bob Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 I bow to your better engineering prowess but all the others have a small hole. I’d be tempted to put it back as it’s been working ok for a few decades. Perhaps thread lock and lock wire to the spout ? Just my 1/2penny worth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 10 minutes ago, Hamish said: I bow to your better engineering prowess but all the others have a small hole. I’d be tempted to put it back as it’s been working ok for a few decades. Perhaps thread lock and lock wire to the spout ? Just my 1/2penny worth + 1 Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 +1 Leave it in, its there for a reason....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 But is that reason valid when the CM lip seal is fitted ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Bob, I don't know hence the....... I used the Revington seal and was told to ensure that drain was clear. It wasn't, it was full of carbonised oil that I used a fine drill twisted by hand to clean out. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 If the CM seal - seals the oil way then I suppose not needed I think I have the same seal system as Iain. But what’s the harm in fitting it. If properly secured. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) The CM system does not seal the oilway, but it is between the oilway, & the outside world, & needs that oilway to return oil to the sump (any that gets past the scroll. Anyway, I will bow to the collective opinion that I should put it back !. So, aside from that, I now have fitted the cam, front plate, & gone through the cam timing procedure. The Newman cam is supposed to be setup so that you can use the original timing marks on the pulleys, But I wanted to check that against the full method of setting crank at 110° ATDC, & then turning the cam to get full lift of inlet valve on No. 1. I used a dial gauge onto a steel rod conveniently the right size to fit into a cam follower nicely with no slop, marked the cam sprocket in two places of equal height below the peak, then marked the sprocket half way between. Without moving crank or cam, removed the cam sprocket, slipped the chain over, & replaced. well it was slightly out, about ½ a tooth, so I turned the cam sprocket over, & repeated the procedure. This time I was able to attach the sprocket in the right place. I then turned the crank to TDC, & using a straight edge I marked the cam sprocket where it was opposite the existing mark on the crank sprocket. then removed the cam sprocket to make that mark permanent with a chisel. Whilst at TDC, I put the cam sprocket back on the original way round to see how close the original markings aligned, they were close, but ½ tooth out, so glad I did it the long way. Happy with that tightened everything up, & fitted timing cover. Bob. Edited January 16, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 21 hours ago, Hamish said: Bob elin In Canada did a YouTube engine rebuild. his crank cap has something but not a brass plug. Have watched this series now, useful, but - he did not use a mandrel to center the crank oil seal, he cocked up the valve timing, & he fitted the oil thower on the crank the wrong way round ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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