qkingston Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 I tried this in an old thread, but I think it got lost in the background noise. I have 2 questions; the clamp bolt through the coupling clamp is listed as 5/16" x 1 5/8" which I'm pretty sure is not correct, my old bolt is 1/4" x 1 3/16" ; which is correct, and do you use an HT bolt for this? (maybe I should drill out the clamp to 5/16"? ) Second question is does anyone have pics of the upper steering column (in car) showing the fitting of the various brackets and what they connect to, I've tried with my pre-resto photos and workshop manual but I'm flummoxed Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Yes and no Originally the bolt was 1/4 and on later cars (TR5/6) it was upped to 5/16. The clamp with 1/4 bolt is split down part of its spline length only whereas the coupling that uses the 5/16 bolt is split along the total length of its spline clamp. Yes it was was HT 1/4" bolt. You could go to 1/4 unf unbrako cap head screw but I think you will also have to consider lengthening the slot/split so you get a good squeeze when tightening - like the later coupling. I think boring the 1/4 hole out to 5/16 may mean you also have to relieve the splined shaft so the bolt can pass it. Roger did a good article on this task where he opened out the slot in the clamp so the clamp bolt actually was able to tighten the clamp fully. He'll be along soon with the answer. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 13 hours ago, qkingston said: I tried this in an old thread, but I think it got lost in the background noise. I have 2 questions; the clamp bolt through the coupling clamp is listed as 5/16" x 1 5/8" which I'm pretty sure is not correct, my old bolt is 1/4" x 1 3/16" ; which is correct, and do you use an HT bolt for this? (maybe I should drill out the clamp to 5/16"? ) Second question is does anyone have pics of the upper steering column (in car) showing the fitting of the various brackets and what they connect to, I've tried with my pre-resto photos and workshop manual but I'm flummoxed Many thanks David Hi David, the clamp bolt is 1/4UNF. Under normal conditions it is only just man enough for the job as the clamp from new is defective. The split allowing the clamp to flex has metal in the slot. As new it just works but after many miles of wear and tear it is very iffy. See my pic for the mod that I do on mine. I use a milling machine to cut a 1/8" slot. Others use a hacksaw Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted October 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Thank you both; I've done the hacksaw mod and just awaiting some new bolts, I might have a look at whether the 5/16" bolt is a viable option Best Regards David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 +1 for the hacksaw to make the original cut deeper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) Hi David, I note that you are having problems fitting the two column support stays on your TR4, I have attached two photos which I hope will help. The first shows the upper stay – at the outer end it fixes to a captive nut on the inner bulkhead – this is the inner skin of the windscreen drainage plenum. The inner end is bolted through the left hand hole in the top of the cast alloy bracket which clamps the column. The second photo shows the lower stay – for this the outer end is placed to the underside of the column support bracket (the sheet metal bracket which is spot welded to the inside of the bulkhead) and shares the fixing bolt with the clamp above. The stay then runs parallel with the column and the outer end which is bent at ninety degrees slides over the left hand stud in the dash panel which also holds the bottom of the cast alloy bracket. For any other details just drop me a P.M. Regards, Richard Edited October 27, 2020 by RAHTR4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Richard, you are a complete star, that is exactly what I was looking for! I suspected as much that in the LHD to RHD conversion, the captive nut for the upper stay is missing and I will need to add it; fortunately at this stage of the rebuild that is not a problem. I'll come back to you if I have any follow up. Again many thanks Best Regards David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Hi David, I am very surprised that the captive nut is missing - my TR4 was built in 1964 and originally LHD which I have converted it to RHD. The nut is very high up the bulkhead, very close to the heater box fixing bolt. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Hi David, I have just found a photo of the stripped body, a view of the inside of the bulkhead and marked the locations of the "two nuts". Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Ok thanks Richard, most unusual to find LH & RH drive options included how very far sighted! I'll have another check later David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 OK so I drilled out the clamp to 5/16" (8mm) and took a round file to the steering rod to take off a very small amount and the new 5/16" HT bolt is fitted, feels much more solid than the 1/4" bolt version! Also purchased a solid UJ for the bottom end connection to the steering rack (Burton Power, much cheaper than certain Triumph specialists - Mk 1 Escort), fits the splines perfectly, and the clamp bolt is 5/16" - result! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 On 10/25/2020 at 10:19 PM, Z320 said: +1 for the hacksaw to make the original cut deeper I too used a hacksaw but first I drilled a hole and sawed down to it. This gives a stress relief Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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