elclem1 Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Hi all there was a thread on here sometime ago, which I have tried looking for, which was about replacement motors for a heater unit can anyone recall or has the thread to hand so that I may investigate, or order one please. In hope Clem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 I suspect this is the one you had in mind: ..... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Hi Clem, if you go this route and it is a fine route I would suggest holding the new fan down with rubber Silentblocs) blocks. Mine is bolted down hard and is a bit noisy. I will be taking it out this winter and sorting out. From a demisting point of view it demists very well. - much more airflow and force. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Thanks Andy/Roger interesting to look through. I shall spend some time having a proper read through. Cheers Clem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Hi Clem, do not be daunted by the amount of work needed to do it. It is surprisingly straight forward and most enjoyable (ignore that last bit if you wish) Remove - Seats, Glove box, speedo & tacho Dash H support, tunnel & carpets, centre console, Thew two screen vent pipes, two heater water pipes, 4 nuts that hold the heater in place. Bobs your uncle. When refitting, renew the water pipes unless you are happy with what you have. I know the TR6 is different from the TR4/4A but I cut a slot in the air chamber of the heater box to allow my choke cable a straighter path to the carbs. Quite a simple and enjoyable task (delete as applicable) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Just adding to Rogers helpful comments, personally I didn’t remove seats or gearbox tunnel/carpet - I was able to remove the heater-box with simply some gentle jiggling. The photographs I included on the second page of the thread give an idea of how I cushioned and padded the fan itself and the heater matrix - I havn’t encountered any rattling problems. I’m delighted with the outcome, it is precisely what i was trying to achieve for a relatively small cost and without over-complicating matters. ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 ..........I think at some stage I had both front and rear off side wings off also, ...............and the bonnet............the engine came out at some point. But other than that it was easy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 10 minutes ago, RogerH said: ..........I think at some stage I had both front and rear off side wings off also, ...............and the bonnet............the engine came out at some point. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murrayarnold Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 21 hours ago, RogerH said: ..........I think at some stage I had both front and rear off side wings off also, ...............and the bonnet............the engine came out at some point. But other than that it was easy. Roger Hmm. Remind me if I ever build a tr6, to start with the heater box assembly and build the car round it. From the sound of it, it would appear the best methodology Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Wiring loom first then heater Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 1 hour ago, murrayarnold said: Hmm. Remind me if I ever build a tr6, to start with the heater box assembly and build the car round it. From the sound of it, it would appear the best methodology Wiper rack and wheel boxes and washers first then loom. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 hours ago, murrayarnold said: Hmm. Remind me if I ever build a tr6, to start with the heater box assembly and build the car round it. From the sound of it, it would appear the best methodology Don't panic - the wings etc came off as the mini rebuild developed due to lockdown. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 10:23 AM, RogerH said: Hi Clem, do not be daunted by the amount of work needed to do it. It is surprisingly straight forward and most enjoyable (ignore that last bit if you wish) Remove - Seats, Glove box, speedo & tacho Dash H support, tunnel & carpets, centre console, Thew two screen vent pipes, two heater water pipes, 4 nuts that hold the heater in place. Bobs your uncle. When refitting, renew the water pipes unless you are happy with what you have. I know the TR6 is different from the TR4/4A but I cut a slot in the air chamber of the heater box to allow my choke cable a straighter path to the carbs. Quite a simple and enjoyable task (delete as applicable) Roger Hi Roger! Is your fan system using a centrifugal fan or propeller as original Smiths? Is it conversion kit if so whose? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Hi Bruce, it is a propeller like a rad fan (it is a rad fan) It is not a kit, Andy started the ball rolling - have a look at the earlier post for the link back to May 15th. It is not complex. You just need to be keen enough to do it. The fan is from T7Design (Spal 5.5") if you want one speed it is an easy wire up. If you want more than one speed then Ebay is your friend. Becarefu of the power output. You only need 3 or 4 amps. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 (edited) Make sure you choose the 101 as identified in the original thread - the 100 has less pulling-power ..... Andy Edited October 25, 2020 by AndyR100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 16 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Bruce, it is a propeller like a rad fan (it is a rad fan) It is not a kit, Andy started the ball rolling - have a look at the earlier post for the link back to May 15th. It is not complex. You just need to be keen enough to do it. The fan is from T7Design (Spal 5.5") if you want one speed it is an easy wire up. If you want more than one speed then Ebay is your friend. Becarefu of the power output. You only need 3 or 4 amps. Roger Thanks for the info! The reason that I asked was that Moss did offer an up grade kit for a number of years but that was expensive? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 6 hours ago, astontr6 said: Thanks for the info! The reason that I asked was that Moss did offer an up grade kit for a number of years but that was expensive? Bruce. Moss (and others) still offer a kit - I guess whether it is expensive or not depends on your personal situation.... personally, it was beyond my means so I was looking to come up with a more pocket-friendly option. ........ Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 I'd previously refurbished my heater box along with the Smiths motor unit which pushed more air afterwards but after reading Andy's project I took inspiration and fitted the Spal fan he used but kept the old resister set up to give just two speeds. Looks and works as original with two speeds albeit with a lot more air. Easy job for anyone with a spare afternoon. Thanks Andy Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 10 hours ago, PodOne said: I'd previously refurbished my heater box along with the Smiths motor unit which pushed more air afterwards but after reading Andy's project I took inspiration and fitted the Spal fan he used but kept the old resister set up to give just two speeds. Looks and works as original with two speeds albeit with a lot more air. Easy job for anyone with a spare afternoon. Thanks Andy Andy Hi Andy, You are welcome, great to hear that you found it straight-forward to do, and you have now added even more to the story by showing how to reuse the original resister which I don’t think anyone had done earlier - good job, thank you! I’m sure you will be happy with the result - I was out in my 4 couple of days ago - 2 degrees and well fogged up screen - and the demisting power was tremendous..... plenty of heat as well (but that is more down to the new std. matrix I fitted at the same time) enjoy the drive and not having to shell out vast sums for the improvement ........ Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 Good summary Any. Wish I had know this when I did mine, my std fan is not exactly powerful, compared to todays expectations. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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