nigelcurry Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Hi all I have just been looking how to fit the above and it looks tight down there can anyone break down the procedure for fitting it and what is the right way for the oil filter to be in its final position please,(hope I don’t have to mess with the dist or metering unit)that looks scary to an idiot like me)Also how on earth do I get to the water drain plug to drain the block for flushing .Any advice would be great thanks all stay safe all nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Nige, It was fiddly but I managed to fit from the top, the filter is pointing downwards, but at a slight angle, see photo. Make sure and get the seals positioned properly. Took me about 30 minutes all in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 The water drain plug is on the other side of the block Nige, just above the starter motor, you should be able to get a socket onto it easily enough, you might well need to prod around inside it to loosen the accumulated crud before it flows. You can then flow water through until it runs clear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigelcurry Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 As always a great help much obliged fellas nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yarm 783 Posted October 23, 2020 Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Nige, cover the starter motor with a bin bag or something, you don’t want all that **** all over your ‘electrics’. You might need to poke around in there to get all the crud out out, my advice, flush for 15 minutes with a hose through the thermostat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigelcurry Posted October 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2020 Thanks again guy nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Hi Nige, the adapter seals to the block with a square block ring. Double check you removed the old one entirely, there may even be a second old hardened one in the groove. Do not use sharp tools that can damage the surface of the groove. There are several other posts on here, all containing good info about orientation, filtertype etc. And follow the written instructions that came with the adapter to the detail. They can be installed wrongly. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Nige, if the drain plug on your block is as original it should incorporate a valve and a tap, which you turn through ninety degrees to fully open. A piece of rubber or plastic tubing of suitable i.d. will fit over the outlet and allow you to direct the old coolant clear of the starter motor and into a suitable container for correct disposal. If the block has been flushed and the coolant changed regularly you might be lucky and find it flows out readily (as mine does). If not then protect the starter motor as advised above and a piece of stiff wire poked through the open valve and wiggled around might do the job. If not then remove the plug completely and and try a screwdriver. If this fails then you will need to resort to a proprietary rad flush to free the crud. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 +1-"Double check you removed the old one entirely", and check the thread engagement of the filter mounting nozzle- mine was made too short and blew a filter cartridge off on cold start. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 I fit one from the top about 18 months ago, it was a fiddly but simple task. But a word of warning. After a couple of thousand miles I noticed a bad oil leak on the drive. On inspection I found the bolt holding the filter housing on had worked loose. Tighting it up solved the problem but I will be checking it regularly from now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Hi Phil, that’s interesting. Mine leaked too, not hard, but a couple of drips after 10 mins idling. It required tightening on the bolt quite a bit before it stopped, more than a “felt” would be needed. Now it is dry. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 7:55 AM, Waldi said: Hi Nige, the adapter seals to the block with a square block ring. Double check you removed the old one entirely, there may even be a second old hardened one in the groove. Do not use sharp tools that can damage the surface of the groove. There are several other posts on here, all containing good info about orientation, filtertype etc. And follow the written instructions that came with the adapter to the detail. They can be installed wrongly. Waldi Years ago I bought one of these spin-on filter conversions and it leaked straight away from the out side seal? Upon investigation I found that the problem was caused by the centre boss which had an '0' ring seal stopping the sealing of the outside adaptor on the very large 'O' ring because of the boss on the block was sticking out too far. The solution was to turn down the face of the boss on the adaptor by 2m/m. Result no oil leak! Do they still leak? As it was a design fault. I assume they are still made by Mocal who were supplying Moss and others. By chance, years later I was given the same kit but made by an Oil filter manufacture here in the UK. They had got it right and I was told that they were the originators of this mod? They also supplied 2 thicknesses of 'O' ring?. Mocal did confirm that they had copied their design! but not very well? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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