StuartG Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 Hi All I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter. (I always isolate the battery when the car is not in use) Which method have any of you used to isolate the old ammeter wiring if you changed it for a voltmeter please ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) Why different isolation? On the cable is the same like on every cable - the full voltage of the loaded battery. Edited October 20, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 20, 2020 Report Share Posted October 20, 2020 +1" I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter." I have an early model CP and running the charging current in and out of the dashboard is the reason I've limited my alternator output to 45 amps. A direct feed to the battery and a voltmeter is on my" like to do " list. In theory this is easy but there must be a tidy solution rather than running extra wires everywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 your worry is needless Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 If I fit a Voltmeter then I use a double ended spade joiner and fit the two original Ammeter browns together and heat shrink with hot glue over the joint then tuck it away safely alongside the loom. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 11 hours ago, Mike C said: I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter." 2 hours ago, Z320 said: your worry is needless Marco is right - don't forget that all the circuits are fed to and switched at the dashboard. The ammeter usually only has current going through it when the battery is charging immediately after starting. The other circuits can carry current all the time. If you are concerned, the right thing to do is fit more fuses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuartG Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 Hi All Thanks for the advice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) Your concern might be better placed with the light and ignition switches. If there's any corrosion in the contacts the current draw from the lights or fuel pump can heat things up quickly. I'm a big fan of relays to deliver the main current for anything with a decent current need, using the original (aka expensive and hard to replace) switches to simply carry the relay switching current. Lights, fuel pump, electric fan, AFR sensor pre-heater, heated seats. OK, joking about the last, but you get my drift. As a bonus you can run nice fat cables to the relay and thence to the load. Less voltage drop, more light JC Edited October 21, 2020 by JohnC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 21, 2020 Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 It is also a good idea to keep the cables neat and tidy. Get them into a loom as near to the switch/device as soon as practicable. This will support the cable and reduce the chance of it flopping about and breaking away. Ensure that where a cable or loom goes through a sheet metal hole that a decent grommet is used. Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuartG Posted October 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 I have put fuses and relays in the headlight circuits and intend to do the fuel pump next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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