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After a long stayaway covid  during wich I had the time to  tackle some long due jobs I now have a similar issue with my Pi, and today spend more than a hour fine tuning the butterflies and still fouling, see picture attach!

check list:

  • Late february, car runs ok, allways with some fouling but accepted as a normal pi issue
  • Tackle jobs none related to engine or fuel system during lockdown
  • Starts at first turn after 3 months, but after short run plugs fouling (all similar oily)
  • Ok, renew points and condenser from Dr, change coil from sports coil to backup normal coil non ballast (its a 1971 model year cp car)
  • same fouling, allways NGK 6eps wich as I have several sets, clean, set gap, and replace 
  • Tried ngk 5r, same results
  • MI working fine, recently refurbished and fine tuned form KMI, fuel filter and lucas pump
  • All fuel system related issues test wright, prv, pressure, return and injectors
  • Set flow at all pairs with very slight difference, with a proper flow meter
  • No leaks on the air induction, engine stalls when valve closed
  • What the gauges say: 800 rpm, 11º advance, oil pressure 70's cold, 20's hot very low at idle < 10's, amp good readings, checked electrics following lucas manual, everything tested ok

I'm looking for either a electrical problem, too weak spark overall, alternator?, or time to rebuild meddle engine, pistons rings, because head and bottom recently refurbished

Before i tackle engine where should I look?

Thank you TR oracle wise men :rolleyes:

20201018_120342.jpg

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If its old fuel, that could be the culprit. If so, drain it and replace with fresh fuel, then take ik out for a longer 1 hr drive.

Cheers,
Not so wise and definitely not an oracle man, Waldi

 

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Did check return of the enrichment lever looks, works fine

Actualy the deposit is almost empty, I'll try to replace the fuel with new one, 98 grade, asap

Thank you

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1 hour ago, Mike C said:

+1 for old fuel, used to happen to me each winter before I started adding Stabil. And check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU isn't stuck.

+1

Not wishing to be the bearer of bad tidings but the oil pressure is low. 20s hot and <10 at idle is a clear sign that the bearings are letting too much oil pass. Mine is 60-70 above 2000rpm and 25-30 at idle after a long high speed run on a hot day. It is never below 25. My sidescreen TRs the same.

It may be related to the plugs fouling in that if the rings are as worn they are letting a lot of oil into the combustion chamber. Is the fouling petrol or oil. It looks like it could be oil as it isn't evaporating before the photo.

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9 hours ago, John McCormack said:

+1

Not wishing to be the bearer of bad tidings but the oil pressure is low. 20s hot and <10 at idle is a clear sign that the bearings are letting too much oil pass. Mine is 60-70 above 2000rpm and 25-30 at idle after a long high speed run on a hot day. It is never below 25. My sidescreen TRs the same.

It may be related to the plugs fouling in that if the rings are as worn they are letting a lot of oil into the combustion chamber. Is the fouling petrol or oil. It looks like it could be oil as it isn't evaporating before the photo.

Following up on what John says! I would do a compression check on all cylinders when hot and then do the oil test on compression? You are looking for blow by the piston rings! To see what the difference is? On a good condition engine it is usually only 5 & 6 that gives the problem? Which can be cured by using hotter plugs. But your plugs look beyond that! What is the oil consumption?

Bruce.

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