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Hi all

The engine is completely stripped.

The engine number matches the v5 but I'm not sure if its a CP Head it gave up easily taking it off so might have been changed. Can some enlighten me with regard to its ID and out of interest what the engine number means?

Thanks Andy

  

Engine 4.jpg

Engine 3.jpg

Engine 2.jpg

Engine 1.jpg

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Thanks both nice to know she's all original should make parts ordering easier.

As you can see from the pics one of the guides has migrated into the port so will need attention, lucky its stayed there or there would have been carnage. All the valves cleaned up well and are all in excellent condition. The springs however are all 1.5-2mm out of spec and need replacing any recommendations and what's peoples thoughts for swapping the guides for bronze?

Cheers

Andy

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Hi Andy,

I bought new valves and the double std springs from Chris Witor, do not go for “uprated”. The will increase loads on the tappets and cam lobes.

I installed bronze guides with seals from Goodparts, have not driven many miles but all seems fine.

Cheers,

Waldi

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Thanks Waldi.

Chris has been recommended by Nigel and others a lot.

Once I know what the machine shop recommends and needs replacing or machining I'm going to give him a ring with a shopping list. The plan is to keep things as standard as possible for this one any performance gains will be limited from fitting a phoenix manifold which should be good for 5bhp tops!  

Andy 

Edited by PodOne
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My winter project is a head rebuild on mine which is a CF24358UF on it.  I cant quite work out tho' the details of what head I have and maybe what to do when its at machine shop?  Plan is full cleanup, new valve guides, cut for lead free otherwise its fix or upgrade whats best.  I am tho always wanting more ooomph but am concerned on doing this without looking at the wider picture.

Any tips`much appreciated but somebody a while back suggested this:

The intake manifold flows better on this one. Also, the block has reccesess around the bore for better sealing (uses a different head gasket than the earlier one) and the camshaft ,as fitted, is slightly more aggressive. The head on the 74 engine can be milled to 9.5

Richard

Edited by AarhusTr6
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11 hours ago, PodOne said:

Thanks both nice to know she's all original should make parts ordering easier.

As you can see from the pics one of the guides has migrated into the port so will need attention, lucky its stayed there or there would have been carnage. All the valves cleaned up well and are all in excellent condition. The springs however are all 1.5-2mm out of spec and need replacing any recommendations and what's peoples thoughts for swapping the guides for bronze?

Cheers

Andy

That lost valve guide! You may have to use an oversize guide on the o/d for it to be tight in the cyl. head bore. I do not know if C.W. does these? The use of oversize V.Gs.  in Motor Cycle heads is common practice. Some Machine shops bore out the old VGs and line them with a phosphor bronze insert, this is what happen on my cyl. head when it was re-conned. I have had no problems since.

Bruce.

 

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3 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

I am tho always wanting more ooomph but am concerned on doing this without looking at the wider picture.

Any tips`much appreciated

Seems a shame to have the head off and not get the gas flow sorted. It's only money, after all :rolleyes:. Kas Kastner provides a good overview in his book, and the TR specialist tuners will all be able to help.

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On 10/18/2020 at 12:31 PM, JohnC said:

Seems a shame to have the head off and not get the gas flow sorted. It's only money, after all :rolleyes:. Kas Kastner provides a good overview in his book, and the TR specialist tuners will all be able to help.

Hi John - - where can I find a bit more on getting this gas flow done?  I'm in Denmark and not many old British car tuners standing around :-)

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1 hour ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi John - - where can I find a bit more on getting this gas flow done?  I'm in Denmark and not many old British car tuners standing around :-)

Ummm...I can recommend RAMS Head Services in Sydney, but that doesn't help you much I'm afraid. Based on the conversation I had with the proprietor at RAMS, the gas-flowing is pretty straightforward and involves mainly increasing the radius of the inside bend of the intake & exhaust ports. So, providing you can find a machine shop that does head gas-flowing, it shouldn't be a problem. I shopped around a bit to find what I felt was the right balance of "trust me, I'm a doctor" and "let's discuss what you want". It always worries me when a supplier of services doesn't want to listen!

Kas Kastner does describe how he did the work himself, which might be helpful if you find an "old school" machinist. Alternatively, seek advice from this forum on where in the UK to send your cylinder head.

Cheers,

JC

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On 10/18/2020 at 12:31 PM, JohnC said:

Seems a shame to have the head off and not get the gas flow sorted. It's only money, after all :rolleyes:. Kas Kastner provides a good overview in his book, and the TR specialist tuners will all be able to help.+

Hi John - - when you got yours done, could you feel much difference in the perfornance?  Cheers, Rich

Edited by AarhusTr6
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3 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi John - - when you got yours done, could you feel much difference in the perfornance?  Cheers, Rich

To be honest, early days. It does *feel* like it's quicker, and revs much more freely, but head work is expensive so I'm bound to say that (!). I have a wide-band AFR sensor on the car, and that shows that I'm getting much higher AFR (i.e., more air) and I need to recalibrate the PI. Trouble is, from your point of view, that I changed cam at the same time. So who knows what was from the cam change and what was from the gas flowing. Worth noting though, I went from a stupidly high overlap cam to the original "150BHP" cam. I shall put the car on a rolling road once I'm happy with the tuning, but that's probably a couple of months away

JC

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5 hours ago, JohnC said:

Ummm...I can recommend RAMS Head Services in Sydney, but that doesn't help you much I'm afraid. Based on the conversation I had with the proprietor at RAMS, the gas-flowing is pretty straightforward and involves mainly increasing the radius of the inside bend of the intake & exhaust ports. So, providing you can find a machine shop that does head gas-flowing, it shouldn't be a problem. I shopped around a bit to find what I felt was the right balance of "trust me, I'm a doctor" and "let's discuss what you want". It always worries me when a supplier of services doesn't want to listen!

Kas Kastner does describe how he did the work himself, which might be helpful if you find an "old school" machinist. Alternatively, seek advice from this forum on where in the UK to send your cylinder head.

Cheers,

JC

If I were you I would get a copy of Triumph competition preparation Manual TR250,TR5,TR6. This book was the basis that SAH used here in the UK to get their Special Tuning Status from BL. It tells you in detail what to do to the cyl. head? what cam to use and manifold plus other things. It is published still by Brooklands Books Ltd ISBN.  9781783180011 I used this book to rebuild my head and gave the details to my local machine shop.

Bruce.

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Even better is the pdf, updated version direct from Kas Kastner. I think he wrote the original one Bruce refers to. I have it, and it's a goldmine.

JC

 

 

KasKastnerTPH.png

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all

I am sending off my head to Peter Burgess this weekend.  With regard to rocker shaft, pedestals, arms etc, whats the likelihood of these being worn?  I can do a Visual check but my simple logic is that after 50yrs the shaft will be worn and some other elements.  Are there any best practice swaps I should consider?

 

Richard

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4 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi all

I am sending off my head to Peter Burgess this weekend.  With regard to rocker shaft, pedestals, arms etc, whats the likelihood of these being worn?  I can do a Visual check but my simple logic is that after 50yrs the shaft will be worn and some other elements.  Are there any best practice swaps I should consider?

 

Richard

Hi Richard

If it is anything like mine the shaft will be toast along with the rockers.

Andy 

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