Ralph Whitaker Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 Last weekend I found time to put all the fasteners into my new hood, and erected the frame to tension it all. This morning I have noticed that the extreme left hand Tenax post is trying to pull out of the screen frame. There is so little metal that these screw into it`s no surprise really. The obvious answer is to dismantle the screen, braze up and re drill and tap the hole and have it re chromed. Don`t want to do that at this late stage. Has anyone had any success with something like epoxy, or chemical metal, or anything similar. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 Morning Ralph, I had exactly the same issue with my 3A more than 40 years ago.. I (carefully?!) tapped all the way through, it has been fine ever since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 Araldite 4 years ago. No problem since. Reversible if necessary. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 JB Weld is amazingly strong. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 17, 2020 Report Share Posted October 17, 2020 (edited) Triumph did it with the aluminium screen frame Image copied from The Roadster Factory web catalog. (see what I did there?) http://cod.zeni.net/trf/TR2-TR3GB/pdf/T23-GB2-Hardware-Fittings.pdf Cheers Peter W PS ...and the ball is ball shaped not conical. Very nice item. Edited October 17, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Brilliant guys. I would use the longer posts and drill right through but can`t seem to locate any this side of the pond so it looks like JB Weld or araldite. Many thanks, Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/59/tenax long ones and cut down. FWIW 1 I would try slightly longer thread to check it does not foul the glass. Use longest thread that will fit as the originals have very little to catch on, would be also be worth just trying a fresh threaded one in any case, threads can wear. 2 Use JB Weld in preference to Araldite. 3 Chamfer the hole and fill the hole with JB Weld and screw the Tenax into that. Drilling right through should always be a last resort IMHO Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Thanks Rod, I now know where to get a longer peg if I need one. They were new ones, came with the screen kit. I should be able to check that the screen is clear through the hole when I get the peg out. The screen frame I got had all the pegs removed, but I suspected there had been trouble with this peg in the past as there seemed to be some old adhesive around the hole, but when I screwed the new peg in it seemed to be OK. I did think about trying it again with some loctite. Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Hi Ralph, I haven't a clue about the pegs dimensions etc but would a small rivnut do the job. They are quiet shallow when fitted and the countersink flange may easily fit under the pegs base. The thread size shouldn't matter as the peg thread would easily cut its own into an Ali rivnut. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian-nz Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 (edited) Hi Most of my fastener holes had been drilled out and domes riveted to the frames. After a number of attempts with various glues etc. I opted for the long tenex as used on the aluminium frame. The windscreen did have be filed to ensure it missed the bolts but result is good and nobody has ever noticed. Edited October 18, 2020 by brian-nz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Proper engineering solution Brian! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 18, 2020 Report Share Posted October 18, 2020 Looks like a bought one Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 I do like those ally frame type tenax posts. A much stronger fitting than the ordinary type. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted October 19, 2020 Report Share Posted October 19, 2020 Make sure the thread on the stud is good. Just this week I was about to JBWeld a stud in when I tried a new stud. It worked without JB Weld. I used JB Weld as well anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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