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Loose tenax on windscreen frame.


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Last weekend I found time to put all the fasteners into my new hood, and erected the frame to tension it all. This morning I have noticed that the extreme left hand Tenax post is trying to pull out of the screen frame. There is so little metal that these screw into it`s no surprise really. The obvious answer is to dismantle the screen, braze up and re drill and tap the hole and have it re chromed.  Don`t want to do that at this late stage.

Has anyone had any success with something like epoxy, or chemical metal, or anything similar.

Ralph

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Triumph did it with the aluminium screen frame

Image copied from The Roadster Factory web catalog. (see what I did there?)  http://cod.zeni.net/trf/TR2-TR3GB/pdf/T23-GB2-Hardware-Fittings.pdf

Cheers

Peter W

PS ...and the ball is ball shaped not conical.  Very nice item.

image.png.1845f315787468c0ae748572cce8e7f0.png

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Brilliant guys. I would use the longer posts and drill right through but can`t seem to locate any this side of the pond so it looks like JB Weld or araldite.

Many thanks, Ralph.

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https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/59/tenax

long ones and cut down.

FWIW

1 I would try slightly longer thread to check it does not foul the glass. Use longest thread that will fit as the originals have very little to catch on, would be also be worth just trying a fresh threaded one in any case, threads can wear.

2 Use JB Weld in preference to Araldite.

3 Chamfer the hole and fill the hole with JB Weld and screw the Tenax into that.

Drilling right through should always be a last resort IMHO

Rod

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Thanks Rod, I now know where to get a longer peg if I need one.

They were new ones, came with the screen kit. 

I should be able to check that the screen is clear through the hole when I get the peg out. The screen frame I got had all the pegs removed, but I suspected there had been trouble with this peg in the past as there seemed to be some old adhesive around the hole, but when I screwed the new peg in it seemed to be OK. I did think about trying it again with some loctite.

Ralph.

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Hi Ralph,

I haven't a clue about the pegs dimensions etc but would a small rivnut do the job.

They are quiet shallow when fitted and the countersink flange may easily fit under the pegs base.

The thread size shouldn't matter as the peg thread would easily cut its own into an Ali rivnut.

 

Roger

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IMG_9033.thumb.jpg.e3b2060df790a73b8c5f1b9855ebc30e.jpgHi

Most of my fastener holes had been drilled out and domes riveted to the frames. After a number of attempts with various glues etc. I opted for the long tenex as used on the aluminium frame. The windscreen did have be filed to ensure it missed the bolts but result is good and nobody has ever noticed.

IMG_9028.thumb.jpg.75425ec7947210c83db50ed5c1b373d0.jpgIMG_9030.thumb.jpg.31c30ac2c9d6967813f9c655de93be98.jpg

Edited by brian-nz
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I do like those ally frame type tenax posts. A much stronger fitting than the ordinary type.

Ralph

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Make sure the thread on the stud is good. Just this week I was about to JBWeld a stud in when I tried a new stud. It worked without JB Weld. I used JB Weld as well anyway.

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