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Ammeter shunt to allow Alternator use


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I am not a "mine goes to 11" kind of person.

If I use the 50 amp it is because it is simply my choice to use it.  I have a garage full of spares for my various cars and I use different options and such to suit my taste and needs.  The 50amp is not a necessity thing perhaps but it is a choice I may make and an option that I will have.  I want to have that gauge and am buying it.  I may start with the 50 amp installed or I may not.  If the scale of the 50 amp proves to limit its usefulness in normal use I may replace it.  I may put in a voltmeter.  I may put in an altimeter or accelerometer for that matter, not likely but have seen both in TR4s.  I built and installed a custom LED VU Meter for my car in the 1980s when I was at college and LEDs were relatively a new, gee-whiz thing because I was an engineering student I could make it and it was my car and at the time I thought it was cool.

I plan to use the toggles from my GT6 I have sitting out back to replace some of the TR4 pull switches in the same way I plan to use the 50 amp gauge.  Why?  Because they are interesting and I like them.  I may use the later make Lucas toggle switches as well.  I have like 15 spares of these switches of different configurations from various places.  I've owned MGs, 911s, Beetles, Jeeps, Old Japanese cars, American muscle cars, old trucks, and for all of them I respect the car and but I make it what I like.  I'd never put in something visible like a switch or gauge for my TR4 that wasn't period looking or British.  I may put in an elec fuel pump but I won't put in Miata seats - but that is just ME.  For example, for me I'd never, ever use other than correct wire or steel wheels for the TR4s and never get wide tires.  I like to look fo the narrow tires.  I don't like the modern wheels and I don't like to see wire wheels painted other than silver but to each his own. 

I have had 4 different factory option steering wheels on my 70 Challenger because I like them all and I like changing them to experience a different look.  They made a leather wrapped performance "Tuff" wheel, they made a fake wood grain thin rim classy look wheel, they made an interior color coded plastic thin rim one, they made a high tech at the time "rim-blo" wheel that allowed you to squeeze the wheel rim and sound the horn....I have used all of them and none were originally on my car but they were available and I like them all.

Thanks for all the help.

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1 hour ago, RMP NC said:

I have had 4 different factory option steering wheels on my 70 Challenger because I like them all and I like changing them to experience a different look.  They made a leather wrapped performance "Tuff" wheel, they made a fake wood grain thin rim classy look wheel, they made an interior color coded plastic thin rim one, they made a high tech at the time "rim-blo" wheel that allowed you to squeeze the wheel rim and sound the horn....I have used all of them and none were originally on my car but they were available and I like them all.

Thanks for all the help.

Mmmm Vanishing point car?

Stuart

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It has been a vanishing point car since 1989 when I got it.  

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Edited by RMP NC
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2 hours ago, RMP NC said:

I am not a "mine goes to 11" kind of person.

If I use the 50 amp it is because it is simply my choice to use it.  I have a garage full of spares for my various cars and I use different options and such to suit my taste and needs.  The 50amp is not a necessity thing perhaps but it is a choice I may make and an option that I will have.  I want to have that gauge and am buying it.  I may start with the 50 amp installed or I may not.  If the scale of the 50 amp proves to limit its usefulness in normal use I may replace it.  I may put in a voltmeter.  I may put in an altimeter or accelerometer for that matter, not likely but have seen both in TR4s.  I built and installed a custom LED VU Meter for my car in the 1980s when I was at college and LEDs were relatively a new, gee-whiz thing because I was an engineering student I could make it and it was my car and at the time I thought it was cool.

I plan to use the toggles from my GT6 I have sitting out back to replace some of the TR4 pull switches in the same way I plan to use the 50 amp gauge.  Why?  Because they are interesting and I like them.  I may use the later make Lucas toggle switches as well.  I have like 15 spares of these switches of different configurations from various places.  I've owned MGs, 911s, Beetles, Jeeps, Old Japanese cars, American muscle cars, old trucks, and for all of them I respect the car and but I make it what I like.  I'd never put in something visible like a switch or gauge for my TR4 that wasn't period looking or British.  I may put in an elec fuel pump but I won't put in Miata seats - but that is just ME.  For example, for me I'd never, ever use other than correct wire or steel wheels for the TR4s and never get wide tires.  I like to look fo the narrow tires.  I don't like the modern wheels and I don't like to see wire wheels painted other than silver but to each his own. 

I have had 4 different factory option steering wheels on my 70 Challenger because I like them all and I like changing them to experience a different look.  They made a leather wrapped performance "Tuff" wheel, they made a fake wood grain thin rim classy look wheel, they made an interior color coded plastic thin rim one, they made a high tech at the time "rim-blo" wheel that allowed you to squeeze the wheel rim and sound the horn....I have used all of them and none were originally on my car but they were available and I like them all.

Thanks for all the help.

Sorry me to understand you wrong, 

you asked and I thought you want a reasoned answer?

Now I realize this is not the case....

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I have learned a lot from the advice on this thread.  Ammeters in a TR4 seem to be ideal for monitoring the charging system when you have a dynamo/generator and have to manage the lower current output when in traffic at idle, etc. where an alternator doesn't have this issue.  That my experience managing charging current in a vintage car has largely been with the Chrysler system that for some reason kept using an ammeter long after they went to an alternator meant the concerns and issues with that Chrysler system were my baseline for this conversation. Their system was prone to fire and they clearly knew it as for fleet vehicles (police or taxi cars) that would have sometimes a lot of additional current draw due to added radios, lights, etc. they wired them differently and eliminated the ammeter/bulkhead fire issue.  TR4s operate differently and the ammeter is perfect for the monitoring of a dynamo system where you are managing charge current output.  I had to wrap my head around that difference and the thoughtful and informative answers here have helped me tremendously to do that.  I still don't think it is a silly or vanity choice for me to consider using a 50 amp ammeter if I have a higher output alternator and don't know where I'll end up with electrical accessories but it may be overkill and I may see that the -50 to +50 scale won't allow any sufficient movement on the meter to be of use.  If that is the case I will revert to the 30 amp or I may use a Smiths or Lucas voltmeter and you may see me offering for sale a 50 Amp Lucas meter and we can have this conversation again.

Again, thanks gents for the thoughtful feedback explaining the operation in a dynamo based vehicle.  I have learned something about my car that I did not know.

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Triumph stuck with the ammeter on alternator cars through to 1973 with TR6  CC and CP series vehicles.  AT the introduction of CR and CF series comm nos they went to a voltmeter. (AKA Battery condition}

Peter W

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16 hours ago, RMP NC said:

Sorry if I shouldn't post non-TR pics.  Didn't think before I posted.

We do like anything with lots of cubes! ;):lol: One of my friends back in the 80`s had a Challenger and we had a lot of fun with that!

Stuart.

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