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TR3 rear lower closing panel.


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Thanks for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure I put it back together correctly!

I believe the car was repaired in the late 1960's or early 1970's, most probably just to keep it on the road, so not much care was taken.

I have similar where the rear quarter panel meets with the inner wing. Rather than an overlap of the two panel flanges spot welded together, a repaired quarter panel section was welded straight to the inner wing!

Another question if I may? I have 4 tags that hold the wiring loom in place across the rear of the boot floor and 1 near the offside wheel arch. Should I have any more in the boot area?

Thanks. Ed

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On 4/10/2021 at 6:42 PM, Ed -TR2 said:

Another question if I may? I have 4 tags that hold the wiring loom in place across the rear of the boot floor and 1 near the offside wheel arch. Should I have any more in the boot area?

Thanks. Ed

IIRC thats enough tags.

Stuart.

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  • 2 months later...

Progress has been slow as I have other classics I am working on. Rear and o/s quarter panel now welded in place. I must have had the wings on and of at least a dozen times making adjustments and every time different issues accurred, but they fit quite well now (I mean at the moment). The front of both sills also neaded minor work behind the front wings. I have just been stripping a second hand front wing I bought, its quite interesting revealing the colours, on top of the undercoat its red, then yellow and finally light blue before it was sprayed in grey undercoat.

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I was wondering the same.

But mine doesn't even have a hole. (1959 3A)

Although if it did it would just be another place for the water to get in.

And what's the little round blob just to the top right of the speaker bulge?

Charlie.

Edited by Charlie D
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I too have not seen the mod before.  Has it got a matching one on the lhs?

Thread drift……Jack French fitted a Woolworths pie dish on Simplicity’s  bulkhead side to give more accelerator pedal space.


image.jpeg.074121aafaa2ef310845f2c9a7630e00.jpeg

https://anarchadia.blogspot.com/2010/06/vintage-thing-no69-simplicity.html

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Phil Read said:

Doors removed and stripped, however they are different. One has a wood frame the other metal. I assume the wood framed door is from an earlier car.

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Handle mount on the skin looks different.  Flat on wood frame door and raised on all steel.

Peter W

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Hi Phil

The doors are from different production periods.

Wooden pre TS60000 (ish) body pressing changes, all steel post that change. Hence the raised plinths for the door handle, (also found on bonnets,boots, front and rear scuttles on later cars.)

Iain

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I had a wood framed door that had a raised plinth for the door handle so I think earlier than 60000. Presumably early 3a`s had the wood framed doors with handles, and also some late 3`s.

Ralph

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6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I had a wood framed door that had a raised plinth for the door handle so I think earlier than 60000. Presumably early 3a`s had the wood framed doors with handles, and also some late 3`s.

Ralph

Might have been reskinned 

Stuart

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On 8/21/2021 at 1:02 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Handle mount on the skin looks different.  Flat on wood frame door and raised on all steel.

Both outer skins are the same, with raised handle mounts. The only difference is that the studs on the wooden frame door screw in but on the metal frame door they have a nut at the back.

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  • 1 month later...

P1100305.thumb.JPG.87613d0aee5f35745c90a4dc73803d6f.JPGProgressing slowly. All rear panels welded in. I am fitting the wings to check fitment before final prep and paint. The front Apron is away being worked on, when I get that back I can trial fit the front wings and doors.P1100304.thumb.JPG.9568cfb6be931316374d19b88244f9af.JPG

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  • 9 months later...

I have not given an update for some time. With help from a friend considerable progress has been made over the past 3 months. All the removable panels were stripped and painted off the car. The rest was taken to a body shop for finishing and painting. Yesterday we fit a new windscreen as the old one was cracked. I have not decided what to do with the interior yet so I am fitting the old one back in photos attached.

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Most panels were sanded back to bare metal. where this was difficult eg front apron, I used Morstrip a heavy duty paint stripper. With sanding there is less chance of leaving paint stripper resedue.

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  • 2 months later...

More or less finished, just a few minor tydying jobs to do. It was last on the road in 2007, I have not touched the engine apart from rebuilding the carbs, I wanted to see how it ran first. Test run went well till I had a fuel starvation problem, probably dirt in the tank. Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the oil pressure drops to about 10-15psi on tickover and 50 psi at 2500rpm. Looks like and engine out job.

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Well done, and looking very nice indeed

 

1 hour ago, Phil Read said:

Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the oil pressure drops to about 10-15psi on tickover and 50 psi at 2500rpm. Looks like an engine out job.

Taking it that you mean "Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the engine's  oil pressure drops" - might I suggest you first drop the sump and check the tolerances within the oil pump.  This can be rebuilt on the bench. The big-end bearings are quite easily swapped out from underneath, as can the end-float shims should those be needed, without disturbing everything else.

... unless of course there's obvious piston slap & an oil plume following you around - working from underneath offers less chance of bodywork damage, is quicker and less disheartening than starting to pull the car apart again, now that it is finally on the road and looking so very nice. 

With my own TR4a, I followed this route, and found the big-ends and centre-main-bearing within tolerance ( I didn't disturb the end main bearing caps). I use Penrite Oil's classic medium.. and have since (finally !) enjoyed driving the car over the past few months.  There are quite a few other jobs to be done before I need to pull the engine.  

Pete

 

 

Edited by Bfg
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6 hours ago, Bfg said:

Well done, and looking very nice indeed

 

Taking it that you mean "Gearbox and overdrive work fine but once hot the engine's  oil pressure drops" - might I suggest you first drop the sump and check the tolerances within the oil pump.  This can be rebuilt on the bench. The big-end bearings are quite easily swapped out from underneath, as can the end-float shims should those be needed, without disturbing everything else.

... unless of course there's obvious piston slap & an oil plume following you around - working from underneath offers less chance of bodywork damage, is quicker and less disheartening than starting to pull the car apart again, now that it is finally on the road and looking so very nice. 

With my own TR4a, I followed this route, and found the big-ends and centre-main-bearing within tolerance ( I didn't disturb the end main bearing caps). I use Penrite Oil's classic medium.. and have since (finally !) enjoyed driving the car over the past few months.  There are quite a few other jobs to be done before I need to pull the engine.  

Pete

 

 

+1 to dropping the sump and you can check the mains and ends with Plastigage before pulling the engine. 

Rgds Ian

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If it rattles a little at startup, don't worry as long as this ceases after a couple of miles - I exclude tappet noise, as most TRs seem to have one tappet which rattles - mine does. 

People get fixated on oil pressure, but what really matters is oil FLOW

It is the flow of oil which both lubricates the surfaces and removes heat from the surfaces.

And there will be plenty of flow at 50 psi, when the engine is working to propel the car.

In the 1960s, my TR2 would run the M1 at a near continuous 100 mph, showing about 25-30 psi, dropping to almost zero at tickover.  Rattled like mad at startup, but went like the clappers!

And can you be sure that your pressure gauge reads correctly ?

I would just drive the car and enjoy it - that's what I do, and I have similar oil pressure readings at tickover and when cruising at 70 mph.

Ian Cornish

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