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TR3 rear lower closing panel.


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can't find the item on ebay, using the item number on advanced settings just shows a panel hammer kit not a joggler, what's it called, is it an air operated joggler or a manual one, i do have a hand joggler but i find using it hurts after a while, i have to put one handle on the bench and lean on the other one to get it to crimp, that is crimp not wimp,

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I have welded in both side stiffener panels. The rear apron and wings fit reasonably well. They have been on and off dozens of times to make small adjustments. I am now attampting to weld in patches. On the offside which, is pictured, I cut out all the bad metal, and used a joggler to depress the edges so that the new metal could overlap. I found it easier to do this and spot weld, through holes, with the mig rather than but weld. As I don't have any sofisticated panel beating tools I found an old rounders bat in the shed and used that to get the curves. Not quite there yet but progressing.

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The guys on the original production line for the bodies used to use an old cricket bat amongst other tools for panel fit "Improvement"

Stuart

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18 hours ago, stuart said:

The guys on the original production line for the bodies used to use an old cricket bat amongst other tools for panel fit "Improvement"

Stuart

And I thought I was being inventive. Need to look for a second hand cricket bat now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not done much lately is too cold in the garage. I started to repair the n/s where the quarter panel meets the rear deck. I cannot understand why it rots up there. I made several panels before the ones you see, it looks rough but the edges of the panels are joggled to form an overlap and the curve in the panel is good, it still need cleaning up with the grinder but I will do this when welded up. The holes are so I can plug weld the pieces on, when I try to butt weld I burns holes or think I am doing well until I realise I am going off line, my eyes are not as good as they were. I screw the panels in place, plug weld and then plug weld the screw holes. When I have finished all the metal repairs they will get a skim of filler. I moved on to the lower part of the quarter panel where it has had several bad repairs. I am not sure what I am going to do here so I moved on to removing the n/s floor while I think about it. I found that my Dremel with a rotary file is ideal for removing the tack welds which are about 1cm apart on the floor edges.

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22 minutes ago, Phil Read said:

Old floor now removed. The job was not as bad as I expected. Chassis is good for a 63 yo car. The next problem is fitting the new floor as its a slightly different shape.

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Looks like you have a saloon overdrive there with that type of solenoid mount, Thats going to be close on the floor edge.

Stuart.

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On 12/17/2020 at 5:41 PM, stuart said:

The guys on the original production line for the bodies used to use an old cricket bat amongst other tools for panel fit "Improvement"

Stuart

My Uncle used to work on the MG production lines in Abingdon from late MGA production to 1975, some of the stories he told me about "adjusting" panel fit especially the doors on MGB's just prior to final inspection with adopted tools, hammers blocks of wood and sometimes a sharp bloody kick made me laugh. I still chuckle internally when I meet owners of 50's,60's and 70's cars who tell me about spending weeks getting panels to line up. Maby some origonal factory training courses might me in order :P:D

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10 minutes ago, Kiwifrog said:

My Uncle used to work on the MG production lines in Abingdon from late MGA production to 1975, some of the stories he told me about "adjusting" panel fit especially the doors on MGB's just prior to final inspection with adopted tools, hammers blocks of wood and sometimes a sharp bloody kick made me laugh. I still chuckle internally when I meet owners of 50's,60's and 70's cars who tell me about spending weeks getting panels to line up. Maby some origonal factory training courses might me in order :P:D

yes it never pays to measure both sides of a 1960's car you may get a surprise how far out they can be, anyway who runs from one side of the car to the other while squinting to make sure they look alike as long as all four wheels are on the ground consider that the car can at least be said to be level enough and roadworthy.

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10 minutes ago, Kiwifrog said:

some of the stories he told me about "adjusting" panel fit especially the doors on MGB's just prior to final inspection with adopted tools

That still happens. I had a tour around a very modern car factory a couple of years ago and was surprised to see that a piece of 4 x 2 was used to 'adjust' the fit of a hatchback door on one car.  I thought that sort of fine British craftsmanship was no longer used with all the laser-guided robots which put them together,  but apparently there must still be the odd case where it is required. 

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11 minutes ago, RobH said:

That still happens. I had a tour around a very modern car factory a couple of years ago and was surprised to see that a piece of 4 x 2 was used to 'adjust' the fit of a hatchback door on one car.  I thought that sort of fine British craftsmanship was no longer used with all the laser-guided robots which put them together,  but apparently there must still be the odd case where it is required. 

perhaps the 2x4 was used on the laser guided robot and not the car

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Dave Gleed who worked on these when they were new used to say one of the favourite "adjusting" tools was an old cricket bat.

Stuart.

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26 minutes ago, Phil Read said:

Off to the joiners to get my 4x2.

Back from the days when I used to do accident damaged stuff a very long time ago I`ve always had lots of sections of wood around in the workshop also of varying hardness as well as widths and lengths.

Stuart.

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  • 2 months later...

I am at a similar stage with my car, repairing the rear end. When removing the rear stiffener panel, which was butt welded to the rear apron, I found remnants of the original stiffener panel hammered in underneath! But slightly confusing to me was the captive nuts and cages are welded to the flange of rear apron as in the attached photo! I am assuming this from a previous repair and not correct?

I thought the captive nuts were on the rear of the stiffener panel which should be spot welded behind the flange of the rear apron? Any help gratefully received. Thanks. Ed

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Hmmm interesting, the construction of the post TS6000 is different from the TR2/3, looks like the closing panel is fitted or tucks behind the rear valance flange with cage nuts on it rather than on the latter valance, on mine the closing panel is seam welded to the very edge of the valance. as my picture shows. it looks like yours has been bodged at some point, strange when they where working on that area why didn't they do it properly at the time, it saves having to work it out in the future.

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Edited by R.M.
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2 hours ago, R.M. said:

Hmmm interesting, the construction of the post TS6000 is different from the TR2/3, looks like the closing panel is fitted or tucks behind the rear valance flange with cage nuts on it rather than on the latter valance, on mine the closing panel is seam welded to the very edge of the valance. as my picture shows. it looks like yours has been bodged at some point, strange when they where working on that area why didn't they do it properly at the time, it saves having to work it out in the future.

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Post 60K is different to early cars, the captives are indeed on the side closing panel and the rear panel then goes over the top of that and so the wings bolt through all three.

Like this on an early 2

Stuart.

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Yes quite a difference, looks like at the change over to post 60000 they made the panels more inclusive rather than using many parts welded all together. Stuart, as a Triumph Restorer you must have come across all of the changes they made over the years. I know that when buying new mk1 sprite panels they are not the same as the originals as the factory changed the pressings over the twenty years of production, i hope any pictures i have posted are useful to some restoring the latter 3A's.

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