Convertible Hood Fitting

[Dave McDonald]

After 23 years of ownership as part of the full restoration of my TR5 I will be changing from the Surrey top to a convertible soft top and NO I won't be selling the Surrey top.

The body shell is still in etch primer, so today I've done a trial fit of the 2nd hand hood and frame that I bought over 20 years ago. The old vinyl hood is scrap and the frame will need to be refurbished but I wanted to know that it fitted OK. Had to ease a couple of bolt holes in back retaining bar and one in the N/S fixing plate to the B post but otherwise the frame fits OK.  I also want to make sure that I've got any screw/pop river holes that I need drilled before the shell goes for paint. However, I have a few queries. I'll use the Moss catalogue for identification, as per attached link

 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-hood-frame-tr5-6-1967-76.html

1. It shows no seal or rubber separating strip under the rear retaining bar, item 4, on the rear deck. The prospect of bolting newly painted metal to newly painted metal in the final assembly is pure anathema to me. Does anyone have recommendations for a separating material?

2. Is the rear vertical cockpit trim board in front of the fuel tank meant to tuck under the retaining bar? It could look tidier but there does not appear to be enough space, or should the trim board fit in front of the retaining bar edge?

3. Are the main frame support plates, items 49 and 50, meant to screw on after/through the side quarter trim panels and therefore be exposed inside the car?

4. From the end of the rear retaining bar round to the B post how many press studs should there be? Moss catalogue seems to show a total of 4 each side, 3 x item 18 fixed with pop rivets and 1 x item 15 fixed with a self tapping screw, I assume through the stainless steel top/end caps over the B post/door seal. That's fine, except the hood I have (which I will scrap) only has a total of 3 No, including the one right at the end at the S/S cap. Also a 1970 USA TR6 that I also have for restoration, also only has a total of 3No. Which is correct?

5. The old scrap vinyl hood has a small "tail" at the B post which hangs below the steel deck level. I'm not sure what it's for. It has no apparent fixings and gets caught in the door when closed. Assuming a new hood will come with the same feature, is that it's only means of being secured?

6. The old scrap hood has a zipped rear window. I will probably get a similar one in my new hood when the time comes. It has straps with press studs in each top corner when closed. When opened and allowed to fold into the cockpit these straps are at the bottom and I assume are to stop it flapping about in the wind. Do they line up with standard press stud fittings, such as those for the hood stowage cover fixing straps or will I need to drill for different ones?

Lots of question but any advice will be appreciated.

Dave McD

 

[stuart]

12 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

After 23 years of ownership as part of the full restoration of my TR5 I will be changing from the Surrey top to a convertible soft top and NO I won't be selling the Surrey top.

The body shell is still in etch primer, so today I've done a trial fit of the 2nd hand hood and frame that I bought over 20 years ago. The old vinyl hood is scrap and the frame will need to be refurbished but I wanted to know that it fitted OK. Had to ease a couple of bolt holes in back retaining bar and one in the N/S fixing plate to the B post but otherwise the frame fits OK.  I also want to make sure that I've got any screw/pop river holes that I need drilled before the shell goes for paint. However, I have a few queries. I'll use the Moss catalogue for identification, as per attached link

 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-hood-frame-tr5-6-1967-76.html

1. It shows no seal or rubber separating strip under the rear retaining bar, item 4, on the rear deck. The prospect of bolting newly painted metal to newly painted metal in the final assembly is pure anathema to me. Does anyone have recommendations for a separating material? I use a strip of sealant 3m or similar

2. Is the rear vertical cockpit trim board in front of the fuel tank meant to tuck under the retaining bar? It could look tidier but there does not appear to be enough space, or should the trim board fit in front of the retaining bar edge? It doesnt often fit right tight to it, especially if (and you should) have a firewall fitted, if not a strip of vinyl wiill fill the gap

3. Are the main frame support plates, items 49 and 50, meant to screw on after/through the side quarter trim panels and therefore be exposed inside the car? They screw on top of the quarter panel trims.

4. From the end of the rear retaining bar round to the B post how many press studs should there be? Moss catalogue seems to show a total of 4 each side, 3 x item 18 fixed with pop rivets and 1 x item 15 fixed with a self tapping screw, I assume through the stainless steel top/end caps over the B post/door seal. That's fine, except the hood I have (which I will scrap) only has a total of 3 No, including the one right at the end at the S/S cap. Also a 1970 USA TR6 that I also have for restoration, also only has a total of 3No. Which is correct? Usually 3

5. The old scrap vinyl hood has a small "tail" at the B post which hangs below the steel deck level. I'm not sure what it's for. It has no apparent fixings and gets caught in the door when closed. Assuming a new hood will come with the same feature, is that it's only means of being secured? Thats not always fitted but yes its trapped in behind the door when you shut it

6. The old scrap hood has a zipped rear window. I will probably get a similar one in my new hood when the time comes. It has straps with press studs in each top corner when closed. When opened and allowed to fold into the cockpit these straps are at the bottom and I assume are to stop it flapping about in the wind. Do they line up with standard press stud fittings, such as those for the hood stowage cover fixing straps or will I need to drill for different ones? They are supposed to match with the studs for the hoodstick cover AFIK.

Lots of question but any advice will be appreciated.

Dave McD

 

 

[Peter V W]

Dave,

 

1).

Round foam rubber discs sit on the back of the rivets,

as photo.

[Peter V W]

Dave

4).

3 press studs

[Peter V W]

Dave

3).

Yes

[Peter V W]

Dave,

5).

yes

[Peter V W]

2).