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I bought a new front box for my 3A from a supplier, who also sells parts for other makes, and it needed the front pipe bending to bring the box down, and a corner cut off from the front and back face,  to prevent the long box hitting the chassis. I started with a minor bending operation. This means that I can not return it. Then the other faults became obvious and involved cut and weld three times.

The supplier explains that they have sold many without complaints. I can only assume that the other buyers will have cut the sides of the chassis member. Why not just make the box short enough to fit in the first place. This is not difficult.

Richard & B.

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I know the feeling, a lot of re pro parts are the same. A lot of effort is put into making them wrong when they could easily be made right. I suspect with the exhaust they are using an "off the shelf" box of near enough dimensions. My Tourist Trophy system is very close to the rear floorpan on my late 3a and must be even worse on an earlier car where the floor goes back even further.

Ralph.

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I did a short piece on poor fitting tubular exhausts (causing air leaks) in TRA a while back. Suggest that a new system/down pipe/extractor is test assembled upon receipt as fit issues are not rare (in my limited experience & mail box). All said, the exhaust has little wiggle room, constrained as it is by the cruciform transit hole, so the condition and placement of engine and gear box mountings and their condition have a surprising impact.  

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If possible, in this wet weather week, could a few people let me know the length of  their front box , without any pipework.  The supplier of my new box claims to have sold many. It does look as if they are using one "off the shelf" which would make sense.

How are the other owners getting over the problem of fitting it,  without altering the chassis ?

A few measurements would be useful.

Thanks Richard & B

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I despair of the current exhaust offerings.  It seems that precious few sellers have ever attempted to fit the product they sell.

I spent a lot of time years ago taking cars to exhaust makers to get the manufactured systems to fit.

The exhaust on my car is a Langford stainless and the boxes are 24"  & 18" long respectively.  The box diameter and pipework is identical to the mild steel. In fact a near exact replica.   I had access to Harmo  mild steel systems at the time of purchase & checked the exhaust before fitting on my car.  They copied the Harmo middle silencer which to my mind has the long inlet pipe fitted the wrong way round.

The issue is the position of the joggle bend that is in the pipe that runs through the cruciform and is part of the middle box.  My experience says the pipe should go straight through the cruciform them joggle down so the silencer is away from the floor. To that end I  modified my exhaust centre section by cutting the front pipe of the middle box off about an inch from the box, reversing it & fitting it to the gearbox mount/front pipe. sleeve over the pipe coming through the chassis and fitting the middle box with pipe stub. Fit the rear box and get the alignment as good as you can.  Tack weld the join between sleeve/ box stub and pipe, remove and weld up properly.

That has been on the car since 1993.

An increase in diameter from standard of the silencers is the issue that contributes to the box whacking the chassis at the cruciform.  Better to reduce the overall silencer length and move the front of the middle silencer rearwards.

I would happily go back to the old SAH/Triumph Tune TT5001 single silencer system in mild steel but sadly that has now gone.   It could be remade as Servais who supplied the round silencer with acoustic tailpipe still exist.  The system placed the silencer at the rear and was fed from the gearbox mount with a simple pipe.  image.png.64ebe2495ad5d82a682f49785c98210a.png

Peter W

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What you describe is basically what I have, a single 24" tail silencer and a pipe though from the gear box mount.  Its a two inch diameter pipe so I crushed it slightly oval where it goes through the cruciform to provide extra clearance.

Rgds Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Facing a similar prblem with my mild steel repro exhaust, I bought a "Smithys" silencer (muffler) with 2" connections and 22" length (H3010). I cut the large box out and welded this one into the repro piping as main silencer.

The rear silencer is left out - the old TR2-configuration....

This setup works well without any other modifications to the frame or fittings.

Today - eight years later &25 k miles later - it looks a bit "well worn"....

 

Regards, Johannes

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