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Hi all,

On the modified rear main oil seal, the one with the ground off scroll and twin half moon aluminium seal carriers, does any one have the replacement seal number? and i sthere any upgraded seal now avaiable?

I have the thought that someone mentioned using a double lipped seal?

Cheers,

John.

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Hi John,

I'm sure Iain posted just recently that the supplied seal is either too big or too small (too small I think) 

I think he mentioned what the new seal is.

 

Roger

 

PS - 

 

Edited by RogerH
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Hi John

its complicated by various offerings being made over the years and most having limitations , even errors in their manufacture or recommendations for the crank regrind dimensions. Most points are in the post Roger has linked above. (Many thanks Roger I can never find stuff when I want to!:D)

Iain

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Hi John,

just to clarify -

There is the older modification where the crank seal surface is turned down and the LandRover lip seal is fitted (normal single lip) The link in my post above explains.

There is the Christian Marx seal. The crank is NOT machined. It comes with its own seal carrier and appears to work well.

The there is the Austrailian 'O'ring method -http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/scrollseal.htm

Double lip seals do not necessarily have double the oil sealing power. The extra seal is to stop dust (usually)

 

Roger

 

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Hi, If it's any help to anyone around 6 years ago I had a new Pheonix Crank ready to instal and decided to use Revington's lip seal conversion, I gave the crank and Revington's instructions to Classic and Modern Engines (in Bracknel) and they machined it for me, I recently had the engine out and looked at the rear seal, not a single drop of oil was visible or any other sign of leakage, ......... a result and a big plus for Revington's seal.

Cheers Rob

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  • 4 weeks later...

Following on from earlier questions, the replacement oil seal from Rimmers, comes with the following

T Shaped Rubber peices.

Not seen these before, do they replace the cotton wadding packed at the rear bearing cap? or do they have another use?

John.

 

 

1380102974_oilsealresized1.jpg.e84b60a7dd3e10516ad6c711a871d2f9.jpg

1542734843_oilsealresized2.jpg.48c06389bf8acf0a4ce311a37e50b320.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, John Morrison said:

Following on from earlier questions, the replacement oil seal from Rimmers, comes with the following

T Shaped Rubber peices.

Not seen these before, do they replace the cotton wadding packed at the rear bearing cap? or do they have another use?

John.

 

 

1380102974_oilsealresized1.jpg.e84b60a7dd3e10516ad6c711a871d2f9.jpg

1542734843_oilsealresized2.jpg.48c06389bf8acf0a4ce311a37e50b320.jpg

 

That looks like the Land Rover rear seal kit, which the TR and Healey kit is based on.  That does not mean the diameter is correct for TR - You would need to measure!!!

link to sellers of the Land Rover seal kit  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bearmach-Land-Rover-Series-3-2-25-Petrol-and-Diesel-Rear-Crank-Oil-Seal-Kit-/222146189089

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-3-2-25-Petrol-and-Diesel-Rear-Crank-Oil-seal-Kit-542492-x1-/221157247004

Peter W

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You might find it useful to refer to this Instruction leaflet that comes with the Revington kit, it explains why so many seals fail and how this can be avoided.

https://www.revingtontr.com/productimages/docs/FI008 REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL KIT RTR1026 issue 4.pdf

Mine failed on and off for 40 years......wrong crank dimensions and poor housings.

Iain

 

Edited by iain
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Having just installed a Revington rear seal I can confirm that no T pieces are required. The kit consists of two machined aluminium crescents, a few washers, a pack of grease and the seal itself. The trickiest part of the installation is stopping the split in the seal opening up when you are pressing it down into the housing. It is a tight fit. And you are trying to deal with a heavy crankshaft at the same time.

Rgds Ian

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