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New member, long list of jobs


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Morning all, follow up to my thread asking for advice on prices here is a bit more about the car and what I'm planning to do with it.

It's an original right hand drive car CP51418 but it's spent about a decade in Scandinavia, paperwork suggests Norway but there is a sticker on it from a Swedish owners group. Came back to the UK around 2013 and is now on an age related plate. Be good to know if car is known to the club, papers in post to the Registrar as we speak. I bought car off PO's widow so history is a bit sketchy. Two of PO's friends finished off a few jobs to ready car for sale and believed it was on a new chassis but not sure, certainly it's got an excellent one. Body has obviously been restored at some point but when and by who may not ever be known. Has usual mods, Gaz telescopic Rear shocks, MX5 seats, electric fan, electronic ignition, Burr walnut dash & cappings, also got a hardtop with it.

Drive home went well apart from comedy contribution from the horn at uncalled for occasions, usually in traffic at lights. Mirrors wobbly, one subsequently fell off! As the day progressed a misfire developed to the point that it became nearly undriveable. Timing meant that I had to then leave car for a week and a half to go on the family holiday. Whilst away I compiled a mental list of jobs to tick off as follows:-

Urgent:-

Sort misfire

Investigate long brake pedal travel

Investigate strong smell of petrol

Do soon:-

Secure mirrors

Fix horn so it sounds only when required

Oil pressure an ignition warning lights not working

Ignition switch body rotating in console

Indicator cancelling static

Speedo under reading & trip meter not moving

Fit window seals to hardtop frame

Nice to do jobs:-

Rattling windows, presumably need new channel felts

Secure carpets properly

Remove or connect existing modern radio

Fit boot trim

Tidy paintwork on A posts

Adjust tight passenger door

Fit missing door seals

Refit normal PI airbox instead of KN filter

Obtain missing fittings for hardtop

Replace Spacesaver wheel with correct wheel

 

So not much then! Updates to follow, all advice welcomed.

Thanks

Sean 

 

 

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First progress update then.

Misfire, having spent most of the last ten days reading back through this forum I started by feeling for pulse on each injector line. No pulse on 2 (sort of expected that or 5 based on what I'd read) and no.6 Pulled injectors and nothing coming from either. Tried bleeding but no change. Swapped  injector 1&2 that left me with nothing on 1 either! Had taken the precaution of ordering a set of Distributor pump seals so decided to pull Pump and replace O rings on Banjos and NRVs. One banjo seal was very slightly distressed but nothing major. Put it all back together then had a right nightmare bleeding, resorted to a Syringe into the injector lines and eventually got good spray from all 6. Quick test drive and all smooth so good news but worried I didn't actually find a fault. Still need to do a full check on throttle body sync and ignition timing. Idle speed is 1200 at moment. Car came with Neil Ferguson's business card. MU and injectors are sparkling so I'm not thinking there is anything major amiss, my only worry is the key ring which came with a fob from some local Turbo Tuning outfit, have they played with something? Also noticed a couple of injectors are not tight in their nylon bushes, possibly letting air past, will price up some new ones.

Fuel smell, easy to locate, damp patch on Garage floor led me to a leak where the pipe from the (Bosch) pump comes down from the boot and turns to run to the front had been joined in a rather shonky way with a bit of hose and no less than 6 fuel clips! Still not enough though, steady drip. Pulled it off not fully realising the tank would drain through the now open line. Fortunately I was well supplied with 5 litre cans so no problem, but surprised that despite gauge showing quarter full I got less than 2 Gallons out, is this the cause of the misfire? So how to do a proper job on the fuel pipe, stared at the Copper pipe for a bit, hmm that looks like microbore, quick measure with a caliper confirms it's 8mm so off to Screwfix for an 8mm compression fitting. Fitted it and refilled tank, ran the pump for a while, no drips so that one job ticked off :D

Whilst the tank was draining I tinkered with the mirrors, another easy job, just needed a bit more tightening, outcome two steady mirrors, on a roll now.

Brakes, initial assumption was adjustment. Pulled the wheels off to check inside Drums, all new in there, springs, shoes cylinders etc apart from the adjusters which were seized, why would you go to all the expense and not sort them? Passenger side one came off OK and freed up on the bench. Driver's side bolts were rusted undersize so I attempted to free it on the car without success so am now waiting a replacement. Also noticed the cylinder wasn't sliding in the backplate so had a close look and found the shims fitted in wrong order. Put that right and cylinder now moves easily. Passenger side one was moving OK so I didn't look at it too deeply, mental note made to double check for same error as on Driver side. 

So we now await the arrival of the new adjuster to see if that sorts the long pedal travel. Car already has Aeroquip type hoses so other candidates are limited. 

Extended period underneath the car confirm no issues, chassis is as advertised and excellent, can't see any repairs. Body has been welded, fact that you can see where this has been done suggests a DIY or cheap Professional job but no grot found so I'm happy :D

More updates for those still awake later in the week.

Thanks for reading

Sean

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Just caught up with this one, part of the fun is working on them (sometimes) so it's all good. 

Handy that you already have some knowledge on the PI and sliding brake cylinders, this TR sounds like it's in good hands. 

I also like a '6 in white, really shows off the black rear end. 

Gareth

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Sean,

We have a number of records on file for your TR6, the first is from April 1979 when it was in Reading and registered as CRT 303H, the next is from 1992 when it was listed in TR Club Sweden's list of TR6 as being in Lidingo and registered BUA 235, it also appeared in their 2002 list. The last entry is from the Norwegian list of TR6 in December 2019 when it was listed as being in Oslo and registered XD 74739. I notice that you say that your TR6 returned to the UK in 2013 so looks like my 2019 Norwegian TR6 hadn't been updated to reflect that.  

Best of luck with your list of jobs to do, your TR6 certainly looks good in the photo

Derek  

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9 hours ago, saffrontr said:

Sean,

We have a number of records on file for your TR6, the first is from April 1979 when it was in Reading and registered as CRT 303H, the next is from 1992 when it was listed in TR Club Sweden's list of TR6 as being in Lidingo and registered BUA 235, it also appeared in their 2002 list. The last entry is from the Norwegian list of TR6 in December 2019 when it was listed as being in Oslo and registered XD 74739. I notice that you say that your TR6 returned to the UK in 2013 so looks like my 2019 Norwegian TR6 hadn't been updated to reflect that.  

Best of luck with your list of jobs to do, your TR6 certainly looks good in the photo

Derek  

Derek

Absolutely fascinating, thanks for sharing. Had no idea car had been out of the UK for so long. Windows are etched with the Swedish registration. It would appear it moved to Norway in 2003. Last date on the Norwegian registration documents I have is 2015 and correspondence with DVLA starts in 2017.

So what are my chances of reuniting the car with CRT303H?

Thanks

Sean

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Hi Sean,

I would have thought that the chances of recovering your old registration are pretty good. I would suggest that you contact Graham Andrews who is the clubs V765 officer with the DVLA in the first instance. Graham's contact details are on the main website under contacts -  https://www.tr-register.co.uk/contact

Derek

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Afternoon all, time for a short update.

Replacement adjuster arrived during the week so job 1 was to fit it and sort the adjustment out. 

Old adjuster put up a fight, as previously mentioned the nuts had rounded. One succumbed when I forced a slightly smaller metric socket on but it's mate was having none of it. So got the power file out and carefully ground it away until what was left of the nut fell off. New adjuster, spring washers and nuts quickly fitted and Brakes reassembled, Drum fitted and adjusted up. Excited to road test and see if there was a noticeable improvement but first there was a new problem to attend to.

Whilst demonstrating to my Son the self sounding Horn by having him pull and push on the steering wheel I noticed that the intermediate steering column was sliding in and out of the bottom UJ on the steering rack! Well that needs sorting before we go anywhere I remarked. The car came with a receipt for a new UJ so it was a simple case of tightening the pinch bolt a bit more than it already was. 

As we were on with steering we decided to take the Steering wheel off and investigate the phantom horn sounding and erratic indicator cancelling. The indicator problem was due to the column being 180 degrees out of position with result you had to get a full half turn of lock on before the cancelling tab engaged with the switch. Column switch relationship sorted and another thing to test on the road.

I had my suspicions that the horn sounding was due to the Moto Lita steering wheel boss shorting out on the slip ring. Difficult to confirm visually so I wrapped the base of the boss with insulating tape as an experiment. Result, silence. I consider this a temp fix, although you can't see the tape I'd prefer something more permanent. Will have a poke around for some sort of non conducting washer to replace the tape.

So road test time, my Son Oliver and I jumped in and set off by way of the local filling station. Immediately obvious that a lot, but not all of the lost motion in the Brake pedal was gone. Good. Also the indicators were now cancelling. Also good. Petrol acquired and out on the open road, engine pulling really strongly, no coughs or lumps. We were winning. Handed over to Oliver for his first decent drive. This gave me the chance to start mentally tracking down rattles for future investigation and have a listen to the lovely straight six on song. Oliver was getting used to using Overdrive second on the steep twisting roads we were on on the North Yorkshire Moors where we live. Climbing out of Common dale onto the Moor top he went for third and everything went quiet, total electrical failure! Bum. So there we were, no coats, no tools and rain heading our way. Bonnet up but nothing obvious. We had headlights etc but any ignition fed circuit was out. Idiot that I am I didn't have details of the breakdown cover that was included with the insurance. Worse than that we had no mobile signal. Long story short, with help from some kind Classic car owning tourists we managed to get the car recovered home by when Teatime beckoned.

This morning pouring over the wiring diagram led to the conclusion that I needed to start at the ignition switch as until the switch the path to it and the lights are largely the same, if I had lights power was probably getting to the ignition switch too. So in we go, I took out the H frame and Kidney panels to give better access, switch out, everything connected, although someone had clearly been playing here so wiring not 100% original. Out with the meter and soon confirmed to switch to have failed. The rivet securing the terminal was loose so I suspect it's been overheating as a result and burned out. Moving the White wires onto the same terminal as the feed side brought everything to life. New switch needed the. As a temporary fix I've used the auxiliary outlet of the switch. Normally that wouldn't work as you can't engage the starter as you have to turn the key left but my car has a starter button fitted so not an issue.

New switch on order, looking at the existing one it's not clear how you get the lock barrel out to transfer it, any advice on this appreciated.

Lots of positives from all this. Removing the H frame has revealed is wasn't properly fastened to the dash, I also found the Heater blower fan wasn't earthed. There are some other dodgy bits of wiring I can attend to and some kind of Overdrive warning light coiled up under there!

Thanks

Sean

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"I had my suspicions that the horn sounding was due to the Moto Lita steering wheel boss shorting out on the slip ring"- I had to skim mine , the boss was too deep. Don't overdo it or the boss might split when the clamping nut is tightened up.

I've read of other people with the same problem, so presumable a batch was made 30 odd years ago with excessively deep bosses.

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Car looks good Sean, you have some great roads to enjoy it, it has an interesting history and you are making good progress with getting it sorted. TR6 ownership at its finest.

Stan

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Evening all, weekly update for those that need something to send them off to sleep of an evening :rolleyes:

New Ignition switch arrived and it was a relatively simple job to replace. The lock barrel is released by inserting something thin into the hole in the body of the switch. You can only do this with the key in the off position. I have read that the key needs to be in other wise the tumblers fall out. I decided not to temp fate and left the key in!

 Switch.jpg.c73036a61d932eb4d9434d732a76c5ac.jpg

This is the back view of the old switch, terminal at 3 O'clock was loose and there is evidence of overheating of the main switched live terminal at the top (plastic appears to have melted) I opened it up out of interest and there was nothing remarkable to see, I suspect it could've been brought to life again with some contact cleaner but for how long? For £20 it was not worth the bother.

Switch2.jpg.c88366e4393646108c897e613d7ab859.jpg

Took the opportunity to investigate the loose heater earth. I attached it to the cable clamp for the heater control cable. That worked but in turn highlighted the fact that the fan switch was wired backwards so that max speed was the first click and slow was fully out. Easily fixed by swapping the connections.

In other news Derek Graham has very kindly sent me the details required to start the process of reclaiming the car's original registration.

I also spent some time checking what hardware I needed for the Hardtop and placed an order for them.

Few extra pics attached for good measure.

Thanks

 

Sean

294681705_TR6Interior.jpg.8be06d603e4b0085daf009b6e10c391a.jpg117242946_TR6Engine.jpg.998b2f386c54714a5d0c04594bc0b3ec.jpg1922190994_TR6rear.jpg.ff94807bb861fe9e7d314503b11dc699.jpg

 

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Great update, looking very good from the pictures, I think white is such a good colour for a '6. Also in time you'll want to pick up some early black bezels for the gauges which appear to be early with later style chrome bezels.

Gareth

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6 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Great update, looking very good from the pictures, I think white is such a good colour for a '6. Also in time you'll want to pick up some early black bezels for the gauges which appear to be early with later style chrome bezels.

Gareth

Doh!, hadn't even clocked that (pun not intended) where's my list gone....

I agree about the colour, it was a major incentive in going for this car. 

Thanks 

Sean

 

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Quick update after another weekend of tinkering.

During the week a delivery from Rimmer Bros arrived mostly of Hardtop bits. The plan was to do a dry run test fitting but I quickly realised I'd ordered the wrong seal, so parked that for the time being.

Weather was rubbish on Saturday so no opportunity to do much, whilst I can work in the garage it's more comfortable rolling the car out.

Sunday was better so I took the chance to wash it for the first time and really get a good look at the paint. No grot discovered although it did show up some more imperfections I hadn't previously spotted. I'm forming an opinion that it has had quite major work but it was quite a long time ago, and was probably a talented amateur rather than a pro. This suits me just fine, if it picks up a scratch it won't be a disaster. Long term I may plan a respray.

I hadn't had chance to road test the car since last weekend's Ignition switch repair so we had a 30 minute blast out. It may be my imagination but it felt much taughter and quieter. I'm putting this down to the H frame now being tied into the dashboard, either that or its wishful thinking! Everything else working well, engine strong and as it was cool even proved the heater worked albeit somewhat feebly.

Back home I tackled the issue of the carpets sliding and rucking up. This was down to nothing more than them not being fastened down in any way. The Rimmer's delivery included a set of studs and fasteners. Not very difficult to fit and worth doing as the carpets look 10 times better flat and wrinkle free.

Thanks

Sean

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update.

No major work done other than fitting a blanking cap over the hole where the aerial used to be. PO had taped over it temporarily, presumably intending to fit an aerial later. My plan does not involve a radio so I got a Chrome blank to close if off permanently.

Took the car out in the brief dry period over the weekend and it continues to drive well although still think there may be further opportunities to improve the brakes.

In other news received an email from DVLA asking me to call them in connection with my application via the club to recover the car's original registration. The lady started the conversation with "This is a complicated one" my Heart sank! My mood soon improved however when she went on to say that the original registration was still live, on this car! It had never been surrendered and it was really a bit of a drop off on their part not spotting that when the car was returned to the UK as all the numbers matched! So new V5 is in the post and I need to get number plates made up. Result and a very positive experience of the DVLA

Sean

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Sounds like you have been busy.

Cars that haven't been used much in recent times tend to acquire a few faults and the first few journeys can be a bit of a shakedown!

Once sorted they are generally reliable if used often enough.

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What a lovely thread to read, nicely written and well illustrated. Sean, I too have an 'H' Reg CP. Pi White car which I've owned almost from new, mine has the wire wheels option but no overdrive. So all of your trials and tribulations made me smile as I have encountered all those issues (and more) over the years. My car died half way down France in 1973 (before mobile phones) when the Lucas fuel pump overheated and burnt out stranding me! 

Don't worry about the chrome instrument bezels not being period for a CP car as they suit your 'Luxury' non standard interior, it makes my albeit original Black vinyl interior look very down market by comparison! One of the givaways with resprays is the painters don't know that our early CP cars had windscreen surround the body colour not black and the Sills ('Rocker panels' to our American friends! Why so?) Should be stonechip and painted black with a chrome trim along the separation line. The other detail givaway is in the engine bay painted bulkhead bolts! I removed mine one by one and cleaned the paint off them. 

As regards misfires it's an on going problem! I never drive anywhere without several spare injectors and spark plugs in the boot and a good quality Fire Extinguisher!  

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Great news on the original registration, just the cost of the new plates. 

Gareth

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10 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

Sounds like you have been busy.

Cars that haven't been used much in recent times tend to acquire a few faults and the first few journeys can be a bit of a shakedown!

Once sorted they are generally reliable if used often enough.

This is what I'm hoping. Planning to use it minimum of once a week subject to it being dry. Covid is restricting me to weekends currently but hoping to be able to do the commute in it once normality returns.

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9 hours ago, CP26309 said:

What a lovely thread to read, nicely written and well illustrated. Sean, I too have an 'H' Reg CP. Pi White car which I've owned almost from new, mine has the wire wheels option but no overdrive. So all of your trials and tribulations made me smile as I have encountered all those issues (and more) over the years. My car died half way down France in 1973 (before mobile phones) when the Lucas fuel pump overheated and burnt out stranding me! 

Don't worry about the chrome instrument bezels not being period for a CP car as they suit your 'Luxury' non standard interior, it makes my albeit original Black vinyl interior look very down market by comparison! One of the givaways with resprays is the painters don't know that our early CP cars had windscreen surround the body colour not black and the Sills ('Rocker panels' to our American friends! Why so?) Should be stonechip and painted black with a chrome trim along the separation line. The other detail givaway is in the engine bay painted bulkhead bolts! I removed mine one by one and cleaned the paint off them. 

As regards misfires it's an on going problem! I never drive anywhere without several spare injectors and spark plugs in the boot and a good quality Fire Extinguisher!  

Thank you :-)

I think they're great in White, I also have a Dolomite in this colour which I've had since 1982.

Hadn't realised the screen surround was wrong. The sills I did know about, they do have stonechip on them but no trim strip. Good feedback on the bolts, I was wondering how they left the factory, another nice to do job. I'll also fess up that the Radiator intake is (shock horror) body colour too. It also has a spoiler which I believe should only be on a CR car. But the thing that really winds me up is the black Wiper arms, will be getting some Stainless steel ones ASAP

Thanks

Sean

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8 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Great news on the original registration, just the cost of the new plates. 

Gareth

Yes, need to get new ones ASAP, but not got new V5 yet, this means I can't use car at present as the old reg has already been struck off according to the online registration check.

Thanks

Sean

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