Dave McDonald Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 On 9/21/2020 at 11:34 AM, hot-growler said: what about getting a replacement block and reboring to fit my pistons? Are there any differences in 2.5 blocks or are they all the same? my cp is recessed and flat piston faces. Just had head rebuilt too with a light skim as gasket had been blowing slightly. Steve, I have what I believe is a saloon recessed block with the later strengthening rib on the right side, complete with all 4 original bearing caps, which I could make available for sale. I'll check out details tomorrow. I'm based in Retford, North Nottinghamshire. That could be simplest solution to your problem. If you're interested PM me with contact details and we can discuss. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stagpowered Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 I had a Stag block with two broken main caps that used to be fitted to my TR. I also happened to have a spare set of main caps that were in a box of other bits I bought. I tried bolting the broken caps and the spare ones back to back and they formed a perfect circle when the inner edges were aligned (the broken ones fitted back together perfectly). The spare caps were out of alignment sideways by about 5 thou from memory. At the risk of making Mickey cry I filed down the large side, built up the undersized side with a bit of weld which I then filed to size so the fit in the block matched the 3 good mains. I then checked with engineers blue that nothing was catching when torqued up. This was all done from underneath with the engine in the car. 70,000 miles later I fitted a more highly tuned Stag engine to the TR and stripped and checked the bodged one before fitting it to my PI Estate. Crank bearings were all perfect with no abnormal wear on the bearings. I was lucky in that the caps formed half of the circle, a thou either way and I would have admitted defeat. Would I recommend anyone else trying the same thing NO!!! Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) "At the risk of making Mickey cry I filed down the large side, built up the undersized side with a bit of weld which I then filed to size so the fit in the block matched the 3 good mains. I then checked with engineers blue that nothing was catching when torqued up. This was all done from underneath with the engine in the car." ...Respect, shady tree engineering at it's best from "The Flying Farmer" (Neils daytime job). Mick Richards Edited September 23, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hot-growler Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 hi everyone, i haven't read any of the replies for a few days as i was kindly given a cap by jerrytr5 for a nominal fee. Tried the cap as was but could feel a lip that showed it wasn't in line with the lower curve of the bearing housing, and when bolted up the crank wouldn't budge. Took it to an engineering shop in Bradford called W Drake ltd that specizlise in line boring, and miraculously they line bored it back to original. All 4 caps have been worked slightly. Have trial fitted the crank back in and it seems to be fine, the crank spins freely with caps torqued down. Thank you to everyones input, particularly Jerry, who kindly let me have his spare cap. Will check size of crank, but the fact it spins freely makes me think it is correct. Steve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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