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Hello

Refurbing front brakes / hub etc. Having looked on the forum I will be fitting Timken bearings. My question is when it comes to replacing the steel retainer and felt washer is there an improved option. If felt is the answer I have read that the felt might need reducing in thickness, what would the best method be in doing this.

With regards to the Hubs what are opinions on cleaning them up. would shot blasting and powder coat be an option, Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks

Kevin

 

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Hi Kevin,

If the felt looks ok you might want to re-use it (I did for the above mentioned reason).

I thoroughly cleaned the hub, especially the inside, with a solvent and paint brush. The outside came out relatively clean, so I plugged both bores and gave them a grit blast in my cabinet. Thoroughly clean with solvent and compressed air after blasting (if you do that). Then a PU coat on the outside. Do not paint the wheel contact area and disk-contact area.

My stub axles were a bit below worn (one side only), so inspect these carefully, replace if in doubt. 

Waldi

 

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Hi Waldi, 

Thanks. I have also found out that Moss maybe doing the right size now however, the felt made for a Spitfire might be an option . I looked on Moss website and the two felts have different code numbers. Not ready to place an order with them just yet as I'am waiting to see if a sale is coming up.

Kevin

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Hi,

I let the old felts there.

As Waldi told already: don't paint any surfaces where you bolt metal parts on each other,

not only the disc on the hub, also the caliper adapters on the vertical link and the caliper on the adapter.

Do you think about using bearing distancers?

Ciao. Marco

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Thanks again to all. Been in touch with Moss this morning to ask them to compare TR6 against Spitfire Felts. They suggested that the TR6 felts are closer to requirements but suggest they would need trimming down.

It would appear trimming down is the answer as old felt on one side unable to reuse.

Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

I used TR felts from Moss. You don’t need to trim them. Soak in oil and position inbetween two plastic plates. Clamp these tight in a vice, so the opening distance is slightly more than needed in assembly on the car. Leave them over night. I did this about three years ago, all OK.

Assemble stud and bearings first without the felt and adjust the play, mark the postion of the nut and then assemble with felt. Turning the wheel will be a bit heavy at the beginning, but because of the oil in the felt, this will settle soon.

Regards, Peter.

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On 9/17/2020 at 8:31 PM, kevinfryer said:

Hi Waldi, 

Thanks. I have also found out that Moss maybe doing the right size now however, the felt made for a Spitfire might be an option . I looked on Moss website and the two felts have different code numbers. Not ready to place an order with them just yet as I'am waiting to see if a sale is coming up.

Kevin

About 3years ago I did my from wheel bearings and tried to use the Moss parts? The bearings were **** and the felts were not sized correctly? I went through the TR QA system. I then found a local bearing supplier near me called Ball Roller and Transmission Bearings Ltd, they have other branches through out the UK : part number BRT298, Not only were the felt seals correct the bearings were made by NTN a quality Jap bearing company, sold at a fair price! I don't use Moss for bearings anymore because of their quality. Also BRTB sell the genuine TR RHP Clutch Thrust Bearing another problem area!

Bruce. 

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If you're rebuilding your front hubs, it may be worth considering the Revington upgrade. It's a shimmed tube, concentric with the stub axle, which allows the entire assembly to be torqued up to achieve a precise clearance in which the bearing operates. The result is no brake pad knock-back, and higher strength - the original stub axles operate in tension, against the larger diameter tubes which are in compression. I've fitted them and they have entirely eliminated the need to pump the brake pedal after reversing out of my drive, over a large gutter, at full lock. Only downside that I can see is that you do need to check the clearance periodically. Oh, and the cost.

John

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