Richmac Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Hi Drive shaft play was an advisory on my recent mot. I have taken the hub part out to inspect and grease. Unfortunately I have never looked at one before so I am unsure what I should look for. The splines look ok to me and I can't feel any play by hand in the UJ. Please could somebody help me with a idiots guide of what to look for please and any other tips Thank you Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 The splines do wear but more often it is one of the U joints or an inexperienced inspector who just grabbed a wheel and detected some movement and doesnt know the difference between end float, failing hub, worn u joint or worn splines. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Don't forget to get the shafts lined up correctly on reassembly. It will be in the manual. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thanks guys. Unfortunately I don't know the difference between end float, worn splines, failing hub or worn U joint either. Any tips or am I out of my depth and need an expert? I must say that one of the reasons for buying this car was the long stream of MOT's without fails or advises. I thought I was just unlucky that 900 miles later I get hit on my first mot and when I ask if its a big job to replace shafts mechanic replies he 'doesn't know as he's never done one' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 (edited) Lock off the UJ by putting Something around / through it to stop it spinning and then assemble the two half’s of the shaft on the bench. Then try twisting them. If the UJ is locked off then any movement detected will be in the splines (because with everything else locked off then that is all it can be). Hopefully there will be no movement there. My best guess as to the movement would be worn UJ or backlash in the diff. Edited September 14, 2020 by aardvark More detail added Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Hi Richard, it's not easy to detect spline wear from moving the wheel/tyre. The drive shaft splines can wear - remove all grease from both halves and then check for movement. There will be some but just a gnats. Look for wear marks on the spline. The UJ is often the usual suspect. Hold one half of the shaft in a vice and try to move the hub. You should not be able to find any movement. New UJ are not expensive but do buy quality units - these work well https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/search-results?q=tvc100010gx2 However before you attack/change everything, did you hear/detect a clonk when accelerating - if not then dodn;t bother with the above as you will hear it before any major problems. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thank you Rodger. I will do as you say but I didn't notice any clonks. I think I will put it back together pending further research!! I don't want to go over old ground, I read through all the old posts on the subject but can't remember what grease you recommended? Also I will change the nylock nuts as I know you suggested that, any particular strength required? Is the toque important as I don't understand the settings in the WSM and don't have a toque wrench is it the rear hub assembly 120ib? And John. as for reconnecting I have looked at the WSM and no specific notes on reassembly into the spline? Does it matter or even help the wear if the spline is rotated on another spline or does it have to go back exactly as it came apart? Sorry for the novice questions but I am a novice and don't want to make a novice mistake Regards Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Its difficult to explain in words but I will try. The yokes on ether end of the sliding parts must be in the same plain, see picture of item 1, here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/drive-shafts-propshafts/propshaft-driveshaft-s-tr5-6-1967-76.html Sometimes there is a master spline so cannot be joined wrongly, but not always, If you are even one spline out it will rattle a lot in drive at a bit of an angle. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Doooh no mention of that I can see in the wsm. Will this cause damage if I get it wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 It will damage the needle bearings eventually, and the speed of the shaft will change, it wont be consistent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Wish I never took it out now. Thanks for the warning John. Now I'm up a creek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Dunstable (UK that is), not too far away from me. Happy to drive over and give you a hand or bring the shafts over to me in Chesham. Drop me an IM. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Hi Rich, don't panic - the yokes on each shaft need to be in the same plane. If one end is horizontal so must the other end. As for grease. Castrol LM. or a Moly type, or Morris K42 will all work well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thanks for all your help and to Jerry for offering to come over, really appreciated. I'm going to put back together whilst I try and gain more knowledge and a plan. Thanks again guys Regards Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Dont overtighten the trailing arm stud nuts when you reinstall or we will be having another discussion about helicoils. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thanks for the tip Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 17 minutes ago, foster461 said: Dont overtighten the trailing arm stud nuts when you reinstall or we will be having another discussion about helicoils. Stan 16ftlbs is the torque setting for those nuts do not exceed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 This should help https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=universal+joint+alignment&&view=detail&mid=31E798CD8266BCC1A0DC31E798CD8266BCC1A0DC&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Duniversal%2Bjoint%2Balignment%26%26FORM%3DVDVVXX John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 And if both out swap them opposite side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thank you John that makes it much clearer. I think I can manage that now I know what I'm trying to achieve. And I will see if I can borrow a toque I don't want to be talking about helicoils Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Hi Rich, Should disaster strike regarding the helicoils - don;t panic they are easy with the right tools. Just ask. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 On 9/14/2020 at 5:22 PM, stuart said: 16ftlbs is the torque setting for those nuts do not exceed. Stuart. Sorry to doubt but is this right? Is it not the rear hub assembly in the WSM 120LB Ft or 16.6KGFM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 18, 2020 Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 No...they are talking about the 6 x studs with nylon nuts which hold the hub assembly complete onto the trailing arm. They are only 16 lb ft torque, easily achieved by hand, but use a torque wrench, DON’t overtighten. I think you are confusing them with the large nut onto the stub axle which the hub assembly includes, can’t remember the torque figures but it’s lots. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richmac Posted September 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 Thanks Mick. Yes the 6 nylon nuts holding assembly into the trailing arm is what I am doing. Its not clear in the WSM. 16ib doesn't sound very much but thanks for confirming that for me. Regards Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Richmac said: Thanks Mick. Yes the 6 nylon nuts holding assembly into the trailing arm is what I am doing. Its not clear in the WSM. 16ib doesn't sound very much but thanks for confirming that for me. Regards Richard You would soon know about it if you tried 120lbs on the six studs Stuart. Edited September 19, 2020 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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