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Powerlite Starter Motor fitting


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I have a TR6 with triple Weber setup and currently fitting a Racetorations extractor exhaust manifold and Powerlite Starter Motor. The starter motor has a fixed stud at the top and I am trying to get washers and nut on it without resorting to taking the transmission tunnel off. I think that lowering the engine slightly on a jack having undone the mounts may give me clearance. 

Anyone out there found a simpler solution?

 

 

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Have you tried rotating the ring that holds the fixed stud ? Would this make life easier. 
 

I did this with my 3a

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Edited by Hamish
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I managed to fit mine by putting the nut on when there were only a few threads of the bolt through the hole, I then gradually wound it on. I recall this wasn't much fun and it took ages as I couldn't get much of a turn at a time, even using a cut down spanner. It's much easier with the tunnel removed and it probably doesn't take any longer to remove it.

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A strategically placed 25mm diameter hole in the side of the transmission tunnel allows a nut to be fitted and tightened on the starter motor fixed top stud with a long socket extension from inside the car without removing the seat. etc. Only the carpet cover needs to be folded over to expose it. The hole can be sealed with a 25mm diameter rubber bung.

Unfortunately, it usually means that everything has to be removed in the first place to accurately determine the position for the "strategically placed" hole, but it's much simpler the next time around.

Dave McD

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9 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

A strategically placed 25mm diameter hole in the side of the transmission tunnel allows a nut to be fitted and tightened on the starter motor fixed top stud with a long socket extension from inside the car without removing the seat. etc. Only the carpet cover needs to be folded over to expose it. The hole can be sealed with a 25mm diameter rubber bung.

Unfortunately, it usually means that everything has to be removed in the first place to accurately determine the position for the "strategically placed" hole, but it's much simpler the next time around.

Dave McD

This is what I did with a Wasp Starter Motor makes it very easy to remove and re-fit! Can be done in minutes and no swearing!

Bruce. 

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10 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

A strategically placed 25mm diameter hole in the side of the transmission tunnel allows a nut to be fitted and tightened on the starter motor fixed top stud with a long socket extension from inside the car without removing the seat. etc. Only the carpet cover needs to be folded over to expose it. The hole can be sealed with a 25mm diameter rubber bung.

Unfortunately, it usually means that everything has to be removed in the first place to accurately determine the position for the "strategically placed" hole, but it's much simpler the next time around.

Dave McD

I also did it this way when in a camping field in the Lake District. I used a hole that the large floor bung would fit. (Plastic tunnel)

If you can get under the car then a 12"+ socket extension and a UJ will do it. You can't see where it is going but using an 'engineers eye' it works OK.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Morning all

I like the hole idea.

Any chance some one could take a picture of its position from inside the shell so I can pre drill one now while I have a bare shell should make life easier when the time comes and later on when I'm not so supple!

Plus it will help others I'm sure at a later date.

Thanks

Andy 

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Hi Roger, as you can see from the comments, many have tried before you to do this including me. I found (without already having the tunnel access as described above) that patience and a knowledge of swear words helped:wacko: i managed to do it from underneath the car but took a while, with small turns on the nut very wearing and time consuming. Patience is the key.

Good luck

Paul

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On 9/12/2020 at 9:31 AM, astontr6 said:

This is what I did with a Wasp Starter Motor makes it very easy to remove and re-fit! Can be done in minutes and no swearing!

Bruce. 

On the Wosp homepage their starters also have a pressed in upper bolt....

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41 minutes ago, Z320 said:

On the Wosp homepage their starters also have a pressed in upper bolt....

 

41 minutes ago, Z320 said:

On the Wosp homepage their starters also have a pressed in upper bolt....

You need that pressed in bolt to take the weight, They do not press in that bolt now unless you ask for it? With a strategically placed hole I can remove that top nut in minutes! You then have to deal with the bottom nut. If you have the top stud/bolt pressed in this takes the weight while you unscrew the bottom nut from below. Learnt through experience?

Bruce.

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Hi Bruce,

thank you, so it is possible to put 2 bolts in from behind and the gap to the starter body is wide enough to get a washer and nut on the upper bolt?

I have to go that way on my MX5 gearbox with the bolts glued in the adapter plate, so I have to use nuts from the engine side.

On the Powerlite starter the gap seems to be less?

Ciao, Marco

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17 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi Bruce,

thank you, so it is possible to put 2 bolts in from behind and the gap to the starter body is wide enough to get a washer and nut on the upper bolt?

I have to go that way on my MX5 gearbox with the bolts glued in the adapter plate, so I have to use nuts from the engine side.

On the Powerlite starter the gap seems to be less?

Ciao, Marco

Hi Marco,

Please note I have never done a Powerlite S M. I have only ever done a Wosp type.

Bruce.

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Bruce,

thank you and sorry me, my question was not correct.

With the Wosp starter there is a gap wide enough between the flange and starter body to get a washer and nut there on the standard (or cut shorter) bolt?

Ciao, Marco

 

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