Motorsport Mickey Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 "Saying that can it not be tapped right through and retrieved from the sump. Not checked if possible though " No, it's within a vented void in the side of the block, ie: it has vertical splash guards that prevent the oil being splashed up and pushed out of the block, these prevent you getting at it from inside. Still needs the angled vent pipe though on the outside to help prevent the oil making it's way out. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NCS_TR3A Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 If you can weld, weld a stud to the plug. Place a socket over the stud that's bigger than core plug diameter and then a washer on top of the socket and with a spanner tighten a nut on this and it should pull the core plug out. I wouldn't expect it would take much to pull out under these conditions. My only consern would be setting oil on fire so an electric welder is better than gas but still be careful. If the pug is thick you may be able to drill and tap it and do the same. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said: "Saying that can it not be tapped right through and retrieved from the sump. Not checked if possible though " No, it's within a vented void in the side of the block, ie: it has vertical splash guards that prevent the oil being splashed up and pushed out of the block, these prevent you getting at it from inside. Still needs the angled vent pipe though on the outside to help prevent the oil making it's way out. Mick Richards Mick, is this vented void open at the bottom? i.e. if I take the sump off and drill the plug, will any swarf drop out? Alternatively, I'm wondering how deep the hole is: since the plug on mime is flush with the outside of the casting, swarf may stay in the hole and I could clean it out without having to drop the sump. Bit of a risk though? I'm not brilliant at welding, particularly in the depths of the engine bay. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said: "Saying that can it not be tapped right through and retrieved from the sump. Not checked if possible though " No, it's within a vented void in the side of the block, ie: it has vertical splash guards that prevent the oil being splashed up and pushed out of the block, these prevent you getting at it from inside. Still needs the angled vent pipe though on the outside to help prevent the oil making it's way out. Mick Richards As i said not sure if possible Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 It is a plain hole and goes in approximately one and a half inches into what is basically a box with no bottom. Any swarf from drilling would most likely still be in the hole to be cleaned out after the plug is removed. If any were to make it into the "box" the next stop would be the sump. Couple of tricks to reduce the swarf (most will be on the outside anyway,only the last bit when you break through would be inside), put grease on the drill which holds the swarf, and if you have one, a strong magnet o n the block as close as you can to where you are drilling. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 And, can I add a vacuum cleaner nozzle up close to the drill site, but yes, grease on the drill, & keep cleaning the bit & apply more grease as you go. If your plug is in the other way round to the one showed above (I think you said it was) how about a small sharp chisel to break through it, followed by something bigger to make the slit into a hole, then try to hook it out. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Thanks for the advice all. I think the plug metal is too thick to split with a chisel, and there's no room to swing a hammer! I'll try cutting a slit with a Dremmel first, if that doesn't work drill at an angle. I'm determined now to get the thing out using whatever implements of destruction necessary. I might just drop the sump to be safe. I'm going to put this off til the snow has gone though...my unheated garage is a bit arctic brass monkeys. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) Depending on your chosen drilling machine would a stubby drill be of use? https://muddyfaces.co.uk/shop/products/stubby-drill-bits-pack-of-10 I have a selection of short drills to go in my right angled air drill from my aircraft repair days. Not been used for some time but a great help when needed. Edited February 2, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 14 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Depending on your chosen drilling machine would a stubby drill be of use? https://muddyfaces.co.uk/shop/products/stubby-drill-bits-pack-of-10 I have a selection of short drills to go in my right angled air drill from my aircraft repair days. Not been used for some time but a great help when needed. Good idea Bob! These ones only go to 5mm but there are others on eBay and elsewhere. I have a Ryobi cordless right angled drill so will have to check max drill length that would work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 17 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Depending on your chosen drilling machine would a stubby drill be of use? https://muddyfaces.co.uk/shop/products/stubby-drill-bits-pack-of-10 I have a selection of short drills to go in my right angled air drill from my aircraft repair days. Not been used for some time but a great help when needed. Yeah, I’ve got a small collection of those Peter, made them myself every time I broke a full size dril...lol. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Sorry Peter not Bob! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Success! (and much relief!) I cut a slot in the plug with my Dremel using a flexi-drive and a cutting disc. Then one tap with a pry bar and it rotated, to be pulled out with pliers. Easy really So my new set of stubby drills didn't get used. No doubt they will one day... Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 That warrants 2 beers tonight !! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Good outcome. Does the replacement snorkel fit the hole OK? - Don't get it jammed!!! Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NCS_TR3A Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Good work, is this snorkel a push fit, never taken it out. Do these things block up or not really an issue when fitted? Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Eldred Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 I did this yesterday: I started by fitting the snorkel with some sealant, but couldn't get it all the way in the hole. Then I thought about the possibility of needing to remove it in the future for cleaning. So I pulled it out again (with some difficulty), sanded the paint off the end and refitted it with some copper grease. There's a bracket between the snorkel and the rearmost sump bolt, swapped for a longer one and a spacer, that holds it in place. Refitted fuel pump, job done. Brian and yes Bob 2+ beers were had last night Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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