New adventure begins in France!

[Motorsport Mickey]

If those are CV driveshafts then the centre nut will need 230 lb ft ?...I forget exactly, on it.

You're just making work, nip the nuts up by using a bar with drilled holes on the stud centres inparellel ie so it doen't cross the nut and tighten the nut as best you can. That will make it fully mobile and safe and then complete the build until all is connected and then lock up the wheels with brakes and wheel chocks and complete the torqueing of the nuts. Stick a label on the nuts to remind you before use if you need it.

Mick Richards

[stuart]

Another thing with the CV shafts is its possible to damage them by allowing them to fully drop like that, they are supposed to be supported.

Stuart.

[astontr6]

On 12/21/2020 at 7:50 PM, michaeldavis39 said:

Blair I would highly recommend you don't get the chassis powder coated- I have seen so many parts on classic cars powder coated over the years and within a year the coating is either flaking off or corrosion has come through- from my experience no powder coater really knows how to do the job properly- when have you seen a primer added for example- it can and has to be done. For my chassis I had it painted- acid etch primed after sand blasting then sprayed with Tractol chassis black- easy to touch up, tough enamel like finish and doesn't flake off like powder coating.  I have a friend who worked for Rolls Royce who knows how to professionally powder coat and he tells me everyone is doing it wrong and he should know- he doesn't do it now because nobody wants to pay- too many cheap shops doing it he said. TVR cars had their chassis powder coated I forget which model but they had huge problem due to corrosion creeping along where the coating failed. It's your car, your money you do what you want but as I say I've seen what happens and don't recommend it- someone will be along shortly saying I'm talking tosh and they've had their chassis coated and it's fine as per is the usual but at least have a good ask around because as you know it's a lot of work to remove chassis from body tub and to remove all the suspension etc.

Best wishes

 

+1 But I still like hot dip galvanizing you don't get rust creep with that finish? Then over paint with a suitable paint.

Bruce

[stuart]

13 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

+1 But I still like hot dip galvanizing you don't get rust creep with that finish? Then over paint with a suitable paint.

Bruce

Though you do run the risk of distortion with that process which could write off a chassis.

Stuart

[astontr6]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

Though you do run the risk of distortion with that process which could write off a chassis.

Stuart

There is a company near me that is called Rainbow paint finishes they are a high end car body repairer and they are very willing to do classic cars and their chasses as they have two hydraulic floor pan straighteners and I have seen them in action a number of times on Austin Healey chasses , where they are well known. Also there is a metal basher next who comes around if required to make up extra bits that may be needed for repairs prior to going to Medway galvanising. Upon return they are rechecked on the floor pan straighteners especially for body to chassis line up mounting points. I accept that if the chassis has had a lot of welding done to it the galvanizing process will stress relive the chassis and you may get distortion but not in every case.

[astontr6]

Just now, astontr6 said:

There is a company near me that is called Rainbow paint finishes they are a high end car body repairer and they are very willing to do classic cars and their chasses as they have two hydraulic floor pan straighteners and I have seen them in action a number of times on Austin Healey chasses , where they are well known. Also there is a metal basher next who comes around if required to make up extra bits that may be needed for repairs prior to going to Medway galvanising. Upon return they are rechecked on the floor pan straighteners especially for body to chassis line up mounting points. I accept that if the chassis has had a lot of welding done to it the galvanizing process will stress relive the chassis and you may get distortion but not in every case.

Bruce.

[PodOne]

Hi Stuart

8 hours ago, stuart said:

Another thing with the CV shafts is its possible to damage them by allowing them to fully drop like that, they are supposed to be supported.

Stuart.

Question if fitted as here to a naked chassis what's the best way of preventing them drooping and been damaged or would simply putting the chassis on its wheels be enough to prevent possible damage?

Cheers

Andy

[BlairP]

21 hours ago, stuart said:

Another thing with the CV shafts is its possible to damage them by allowing them to fully drop like that, they are supposed to be supported.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart, I had heard that as well, though there was no mention of it in the parts box. As they are, they are not at full drop, being held up by the trailing arm drop link. Clearly once the car's on its tyres they'll be even more linear, but there's a good 3-4 inches of drop being mitigated by the drop link.

Blair 

[stuart]

15 hours ago, PodOne said:

Hi Stuart

Question if fitted as here to a naked chassis what's the best way of preventing them drooping and been damaged or would simply putting the chassis on its wheels be enough to prevent possible damage?

Cheers

Andy

On its wheels will do fine .

Stuart.

[BlairP]

Hello all. I'm waiting for parts from the UK (even though ordered a month ago through Moss Paris), so am doing some more parts cleaning, inspection, etc. Today's head-scratcher is:

I took the headlights apart to clean, de-rust and paint the buckets and mounting rings, and discovered that my headlights themselves are mis-matched - although they both still have the yellow bulbs in them from the old days in France. One is a Lucas European 700, which I assume is original, and is available from Moss as a replacement. The other is an Iode Marchal H4. According to the web, both were used to convert UK cars for France, but given the price differential for replacing them today, the quality appears to be quite different.

One of the upgrades I want to do is the headlights. I was assuming that better bulbs and relays would achieve that goal. But as electrics are by far the weakest link in my knowledge, what does the forum think? Should I be seeking a second of either of my existing lights to make a matched pair, and then upgrade the bulbs? Or should I be taking another line altogether? I've done a fair amount of reading on the forum today, and am no farther advanced in my thinking.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Regards, Blair 

[rwest]

Hi Blair

I don't know if you're still having problems with Moss Paris, but I gave up on using them as they were taking forever to ship and were charging quite a surcharge on top of the Moss UK website.

I've been using the TR Shop in Chiswick who have been shipping with Fedex, and they usually arrive in 3-4 business days. They don't charge VAT at their end, so you only pay for the French tax and Fedex charges which turns out very reasonable. I bought a metering unit, 4 injectors and a few other items which I would have had to pay £171 in VAT (if I lived in the UK), whereas the charges I actually paid was 236€ (about £206).

I have no affiliation with the TR Shop whatsoever, but when you get service this good I think it's worth passing on.

Cheers, Robert

[BlairP]

Thank you so much, Robert. I have indeed been despairing of Moss Paris recently, despite my rebuild discount. I shall have a look at the TR Shop.

Best regards,

Blair

[BlairP]

Hello everyone. Here's an interesting (for me, at least) question: Rebuilding my engine, I installed the newly redone head yesterday, using a Payen gasket and Permatex each side. When I started doing the valve-clearance adjustment, I discovered a sticking exhaust valve. So the head has come off again, and it's going back to the machine shop in Dijon for rectification. My question is this: The head was on and torqued for about 18 hours, and came off by hand. The Permatex was still wet, and the gasket came away whole, easily. May I re-use the gasket? And if so, do I need to clean off all the Permatex and reapply before re-use? Thoughts?

Many thanks,

Blair

[Motorsport Mickey]

"using a Payen gasket"...........Just to confirn what is the construction of this gasket, Copper ?

"When I started doing the valve-clearance adjustment, I discovered a sticking exhaust valve. " ...I guess you know this by now -Never trust a machinist or an engine shop to have done the work correctly, always measure where needed and check the operation if there is a sliding component in it...ie valves.

"The Permatex was still wet, and the gasket came away whole, easily. May I re-use the gasket? And if so, do I need to clean off all the Permatex and reapply before re-use? Thoughts?" ...As for reusing depends upon what you say regarding item 1 here...As for Permatex or any gasket goo removal off gaskets - yes I would always return the gasket to pre gooed state if you can, thinners ? depends upon what you say to item 1 ? You don't want the possibility of any goo stiffening up as you wait for the rework and providing excess resistance to the sqashing action of torquing down.

Mick Richards

 

[BlairP]

Thanks for your thoughts, Mick. The gasket is not copper; it's a composite material. The machine shop apologetically said they would deal with this valve immediately, so I'm off to Dijon now. If they are able to take care of it right away, the Permatex will still be wet, and I may brush another thin coat on and re-fit the gasket straight away this afternoon. It takes a loooong time for Permatex to harden.

Blair

Edited April 23, 2021 by BlairP

[Motorsport Mickey]

Well the composite will have compression rings in it ( now compressed) but it’s not been fired so I’d hope it would accept ok. Give it a go.

Mick Richards

[John L]

Blair,

Re Moss Paris, I'm a customer as well, and also not so happy, I went there recently, and the whole show room now is a parts store.

I think what has happened is Moss used to rely on London for parts and used to get them in quickly before Brexit, now I dont believe they have the stock on hand and still get it from London and takes longer.  This was also compounded some time ago when the Moss USA computer didnt reorder a lot of parts.

I have used Betaset, and the Little Car Shop, they have had to keep stuff in stock as an individual supplier.

No connection with Moss, just my view, I may even be wrong...

John

[BlairP]

11 hours ago, John L said:

Blair,

Re Moss Paris, I'm a customer as well, and also not so happy, I went there recently, and the whole show room now is a parts store.

I think what has happened is Moss used to rely on London for parts and used to get them in quickly before Brexit, now I dont believe they have the stock on hand and still get it from London and takes longer.  This was also compounded some time ago when the Moss USA computer didnt reorder a lot of parts.

I have used Betaset, and the Little Car Shop, they have had to keep stuff in stock as an individual supplier.

No connection with Moss, just my view, I may even be wrong...

John

Thank you so much, John! These sites look really good, and I shall be using them in future.

Best, Blair

[BlairP]

Well, the engine is almost done; only waiting for a few small parts to arrive so I can button it up definitively. I did change the head gasket in the end once the sticking valve was addressed (I had the engine shop check all of them while I was there, and we eased two others as well). I fear I’ll also need to change the oil sump gasket. The new alloy sump did not fit around the oil pump, and I had to mill it out a bit to make it work. I’m afraid taking it on and off several times might have compromised the gasket. We’ll see when I fill it with oil! That also taught me to test fit all parts!

It was bored out to +30, and has new pistons and bearings. The head had hardened seats and new guides fitted. It turns by hand as smoothly as silk.

Next it’s coming off the stand to go onto the hoist, where it will meet the clutch and gearbox in preparation for going back on the car. As I have to remove the inlet manifolds to fit the breathers when they arrive, I’m going to put the throttle linkage on at the same time, before it goes back into the car and there's easy access. Probably also the metering unit, but I'm waiting for a distributor shim as well.

Progress!

Regards, Blair

[BlairP]

A big step forward today: The engine and gearbox have been reunited with the car! I'm awaiting parts to complete the exhaust system, and then it will be time to think about putting the body shell back on and tackling the part that scares me the most: the electrical system. Exciting times!

Blair

[tjs]

Great to see this project, Blair. Following.

[BlairP]

On 9/13/2020 at 6:31 PM, saffrontr said:

Hi Blair,

Your TR6 does have matching numbers and your commission number is indeed 1CP26553LP which is a TR6 that was assembled in the Belgium factory at Malines. There were 3600 TR6 assembled there, all PI,  and they are quite well documented in the Belgium Customs Records held by the British Motor Museum. The customs ledgers document the commission number its matching engine number, the date the CKD was despatched from the factory in the UK, the date the car was completed and its destination. In the case of your TR6 it was initially despatched from Malines when completed to a Dealer in Belgium.  I haven't recorded the date of despatch albeit I do have a date of the 30th June 1969 which is when the CKD kit left the UK factory to Malines.  

Best of luck with the resto, you look you have a very good condition TR6 as its basis.

Derek

Hello Derek, and renewed greetings from Burgundy. I'm coming to you with a question, as you seem to have complete knowledge on the issue quoted above. I applied to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust for a certificate for my car. Yesterday, I received this email from them:

"Thank you for your order. Unfortunately we do not have a factory record for 1CP/26553-LP. As a result we are unable to produce a Heritage Certificate. I will cancel your order and refund your money."

Do you have any suggestions about how to proceed?

Many thanks in advance,

Blair

[harrytr5]

Hi Blair,

You are probably aware of this anyway. The airbox and injector manifold closest to the bulkhead will have to come off to enable you to drop the shell on.

Exciting times and been there many times.After all the grime and **** it is indeed much more pleasurable and rewarding at this stage. Look forward to seeing it finished.

Well done and keep the pics coming.

Regards Harry

[stuart]

2 hours ago, BlairP said:

Hello Derek, and renewed greetings from Burgundy. I'm coming to you with a question, as you seem to have complete knowledge on the issue quoted above. I applied to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust for a certificate for my car. Yesterday, I received this email from them:

"Thank you for your order. Unfortunately we do not have a factory record for 1CP/26553-LP. As a result we are unable to produce a Heritage Certificate. I will cancel your order and refund your money."

Do you have any suggestions about how to proceed?

Many thanks in advance,

Blair

I thought Derek supplied you with all the info he had on your car on page one of this thread..

Stuart.

Edited June 30, 2021 by stuart

[saffrontr]

Hi Blair,

I have spoken to the archivist at the BMIHT and he is going to have another look in the Customs Ledgers. I have given him the ledger reference so fingers crossed. Once he gets back to me I will let you know.

cheers

Derek