Jump to content

New adventure begins in France!


Recommended Posts

Agree with Alan mine looked a bit worse so I cut off the rear most front suspension mounts and replaced with new plus reenforced as per the usual plates. I also plated the chassis to the bottom and outer sides not because there was rust but just to increase rigidity and added small plates to the tops of the brackets to the turret and to the cross member supporting the steering rack. 

While I was there I seam welded the turrets where the flanges meet and around the tops of the round front shock mounts on the turrets as they crack on the outer most part of the lip (mine had). As you say the factory welds are naff so I finished them off while I was there.

The bridge on yours looks wrong in terms of someone has tried to strengthen it but not as most would do it. Suggest cutting it off and looking underneath and go from there. The diff pins crack the bridge (again mine had) Repack the pins and box them in with 2mm plate and add a plate/thick 3mm washer where they protrude through the bridge. Check the outer spring hanger for cracks beef up again with plate. If you want an easier solution buy a new bridge from CTM (think he's based in France now) but DON'T buy a Rimmers offering there C...! I did and spent ages rectifying it. Rear diff bridge box it in and beef up with gussets where it attaches to the chassis and again the tops where pins protrude.

I'd also go over the trailing arm attachments sections as these rot again mine looked ok but were thin near the body mounts so I replaced them.

Never a better time than now while its stripped.

Andy 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 242
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thats some god awful welding and if it lines up I would be very surprised.

Definitely a need to replace that lower inner mounting completely. Plus investigate what that plate across the spring bridge is hiding.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The good news is that the frame is both square and level. But clearly, I have some work to do. I will take off that reinforcing plate on the spring frame - it's only stitch-welded on - but if it's clean metal underneath, I'll probably put it back and weld it properly, leaving only some drain holes, as the diff pins are rock solid and it appears to have done a good job reinforcing. And I agree that the wonky suspension mount needs to be ground off and replaced. I'll post updates as I make progress.

And what about the trailing arms? Paint or not?

Thanks, Blair

Link to post
Share on other sites

Blair  - re your trailing arms, personally, I would strip them down to just the alloy casting, checkinmg that all the hub studs are sound, then get them blasted (remove all the rubber bungs) including inside the hollow part and then paint them - I used aluminium spray paint from Lidl, and did the insides with penetrating wax. - see photos below - these are 4A ones

IMG_0085 - Resized.JPG

IMG_0086 - Resized.JPG

IMG_0087 - Resized.JPG

IMG_0088 - Resized.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, BlairP said:

The good news is that the frame is both square and level. But clearly, I have some work to do. I will take off that reinforcing plate on the spring frame - it's only stitch-welded on - but if it's clean metal underneath, I'll probably put it back and weld it properly, leaving only some drain holes, as the diff pins are rock solid and it appears to have done a good job reinforcing. And I agree that the wonky suspension mount needs to be ground off and replaced. I'll post updates as I make progress.

And what about the trailing arms? Paint or not?

Thanks, Blair

Hi Blair

The pins might be solid but there appears to be no reinforcement around them. The plate appears not to be welded to them. I'd still do them while you can as the likely hood is they will crack at some point and cutting a hole in the floor or welding upside down is no fun!

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Blair

If you Iike the original aluminium finish, I did my mine by degreasing, media blasting, cleaning & then sprayed with several coats of rattle can clear engine lacquer. I wasn't sure if would eventually bloom or peel but its held up 18 months so far.

Good luck with the chassis repairs

Alan

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, BlairP said:

Well, I found out what was under that piece of angle iron welded onto the diff bridge as a reinforcement - not so pretty!

Blair

difbridge.jpg

difbridge2.jpg

Yikes, re-claimable if you "V" out the splits and weld and then use 3mm plate in large sections with a hole drilled through the centre for the top of the pin to fit through, seam weld them on and then box in the pins below. Do the rears the same.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 095.jpg

Marks TR5 076.jpg

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Progress, ladies and gentlemen. Chassis strengthening and repairs are done (see pics), and after a bit of cleaning up welds, it will be off in early January to be powder coated. In the end, I did re-weld the angle iron to the rear suspension bridge once the diff pin problem had been sorted out and both reinforced. It really stiffens the bridge across its length. You can't see it in the pics, but I boxed in the underside of the diff pins as well.

One other occurence today, which could have been a disaster but wasn't in the end, aside from a busted part. I was pressing out the bearings for the water pump impeller when the cast-iron pump housing exploded. I don't really understand what happened, but thankfully I always work in heavy protective clothes and a full face shield. In the end, nothing hit me, but it could have. Shook me up a little, I have to admit.

Happy holidays to all (or as happy as possible, given the extraordinary circumstances through which we are all living)!

Blair

D2E3BD1D-C8F2-4C37-998A-57FF6EC7A606_1_201_a.jpeg

0F884711-91D3-41C0-8CB9-3B9CE488A722_1_201_a.jpeg

3AE4BE33-63BE-48F0-A3E9-63D1D3F0EFEC_1_201_a.jpeg

4C9E34A2-75D2-40BE-A310-73291C38F1F0_1_201_a.jpeg

Edited by BlairP
Link to post
Share on other sites

Blair I would highly recommend you don't get the chassis powder coated- I have seen so many parts on classic cars powder coated over the years and within a year the coating is either flaking off or corrosion has come through- from my experience no powder coater really knows how to do the job properly- when have you seen a primer added for example- it can and has to be done. For my chassis I had it painted- acid etch primed after sand blasting then sprayed with Tractol chassis black- easy to touch up, tough enamel like finish and doesn't flake off like powder coating.  I have a friend who worked for Rolls Royce who knows how to professionally powder coat and he tells me everyone is doing it wrong and he should know- he doesn't do it now because nobody wants to pay- too many cheap shops doing it he said. TVR cars had their chassis powder coated I forget which model but they had huge problem due to corrosion creeping along where the coating failed. It's your car, your money you do what you want but as I say I've seen what happens and don't recommend it- someone will be along shortly saying I'm talking tosh and they've had their chassis coated and it's fine as per is the usual but at least have a good ask around because as you know it's a lot of work to remove chassis from body tub and to remove all the suspension etc.

Best wishes

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Blair,

I agree with Michael.

Powder coat looks good when new but it hides too many nasty things.

BondaRust the bare chassis, grey primer,  then use a good quality black chassis paint. This can be easily touched up annually etc.

Have you drilled holes in the chassis bottom face for access into all the chambers. This will allow protective coating to be squirted in

I like Dinitrol 3125HS Here  Easy to spray and stays where put.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Blair

Agree with above. Avoid powder coating its just not durable enough. My brothers TVR needed extensive chassis repairs where the powder coating was just a empty shell with nothing inside in some critical areas. The corrosion went unnoticed for years as it looked solid.

As before hand paint it with two coats of POR15 Chassis black. The finish with a good brush is equal to spray or powder coating, thicker as tough as old boots so will last and can be overpainted as required. As Rodger says spay the internal surfaces with Dinatrol or Bilt Hammer cavity wax. 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just curious - is hot dip galvanising too expensive to consider? That's what I had done to my chassis 30 years ago and it's good as new. I didn't paint it as I want to be able to see any corrosion if it appears. So far, so good. Grubby, but no rust.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice everyone. In fact, my plan was to apply a brush coat of POR 15 over the powder coat, and treat the inside with Waxoyl. I had not heard of Dinitrol, but a quick search shows the 3125 HS is only available from the UK - problematic at the moment.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Blair,

I agree with Michael.

Powder coat looks good when new but it hides too many nasty things.

BondaRust the bare chassis, grey primer,  then use a good quality black chassis paint. This can be easily touched up annually etc.

Have you drilled holes in the chassis bottom face for access into all the chambers. This will allow protective coating to be squirted in

I like Dinitrol 3125HS Here  Easy to spray and stays where put.

 

Roger

There is nothing that can compete with Hot Dip Galvanizing as done by Medway Galvanizing in Kent. I have had items done by them which have been outside for 20+ years and still show no signs of rust!

Bruce.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, BlairP said:

Thanks for the advice everyone. In fact, my plan was to apply a brush coat of POR 15 over the powder coat, and treat the inside with Waxoyl. I had not heard of Dinitrol, but a quick search shows the 3125 HS is only available from the UK - problematic at the moment.

The top coat is only as good as the bottom coat. If you include Powder Coating ANYWHERE in the process it’s just a matter of time.

If the chassis doesn’t pick up any road chips ( yeah right, it’s under the car being shot blasted with gravel at best ...and small boulders likely) then there’s the occasion brush with a grating etc. Just POR 15 over the shot blast chassis or then Bondarust first then POR 15.

There’s so many people had powder coat done that’s corroded underneath they can’t all have had incompetent coaters, it’s a faulty process on a chassis.

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also kept away from powder coat on my CTM chassis.  Used epoxy mastic paint which is holding up well after 5 Years!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree with comments on powder coat. My chassis was done and the coating started coming away in sheets after 5 or 6 years. I don't think it is flexible enough for a chassis.

Doesn't galvanizing add an awful lot of weight ?

Jerry

Link to post
Share on other sites

someone will no doubt correct me , but i looked into galvanising when i first got into TRs in the 70s. 

A few had tried this and the 5/6 chassis would distort in the process was the report. 

I went for hot zinc spraying. Still have both cars . Only warning was that if welding was ever required the area needed to be cleaned to bare metal.

Roy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Blair

POR15 should be applied direct to the blasted chassis asap to obtain the best from it no undercoat required just two coats applied a couple of hours apart so the second coat keys to the first.

They advise using their metal prep first if the surface is simply cleaned with wire brushes etc to convert the remaining rust pits that's why blasting offers the better surface to begin with. The flash rust in some of your pictures might benefit from this first or have it blasted again.

Would hot galvanising adhere to surface rust within the chassis? I suspect its best used on a new bare steel chassis to be fully effective. Plus there are some blind sections with baffles where it may struggle to get to without drilling some large holes.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 had also heard galvanised dipping caused distortion. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/22/2020 at 7:53 PM, PodOne said:

Hi Blair

POR15 should be applied direct to the blasted chassis asap to obtain the best from it no undercoat required just two coats applied a couple of hours apart so the second coat keys to the first.

They advise using their metal prep first if the surface is simply cleaned with wire brushes etc to convert the remaining rust pits that's why blasting offers the better surface to begin with. The flash rust in some of your pictures might benefit from this first or have it blasted again.

Would hot galvanizing adhere to surface rust within the chassis? I suspect its best used on a new bare steel chassis to be fully effective. Plus there are some blind sections with baffles where it may struggle to get to without drilling some large holes.

Andy

The pickling process kills the rust  on the outside and inside plus it creeps into the joints. The galvanizing bonds to the steel molecules and therefore is better than a paint finish. But I would still use a preservative in the box sections. As far as distortion happening I would have the chassis  put on to a hydraulic body rack, feed in the co-ordinates to check all the key measurements at all the key points. I have seen this done on a Healey 100/6 chassis which was 4 inches out at one point but was very difficult to spot with the naked eye. That was soon corrected with a few crunching noises as the ram brought it back into correct alinement. A metal basher was on hand to re-weld certain parts and fit some new bits.

Bruce.

Bruce.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Hello all, greetings from Burgundy, where it was -10C last weekend and will be 20C this weekend! Sheesh! First post for a long time, as I've been doing prep: cleaning, degreasing, derusting, sandblasting, painting, etc. in preparation for starting to rebuild. As you see from the pics below, it's begun. The chassis has been repaired, reinforced, treated inside with Waxoyl and painted with POR-15. The rear has gone onto the car, and its installation has led me to a real beginner's question:

I need to torque the rear axle flange and the hub nut (particularly hard, this one). How do I immobilise the diff so the axle doesn't simply turn while  I'm torqueing? There must be an obvious answer, but I'm danged if I can find it.

Thanks in advance! 

Blair

reb3.jpg

reb1.jpg

reb2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems to me that you'd temporarily fit a lever-bar across from the diff's prop shaft flange (two bolted holes in said lever-bar) across to the chassis which would stop it from turning.  But as it's not a limited slip diff - the opposite hub / wheel would have to be locked tight too, perhaps by similar lever-bar means. 

No ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.