BlairP Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 (edited) Thank you so much, Rob. Really useful, helpful stuff! I assume I can completely remove the intermediate terminal from which I disconnect the brown/red wire, and run the remaining brown straight from the fuse box to the starter. Blair Edited September 24, 2021 by BlairP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 On 8/31/2021 at 10:49 AM, stuart said: Dont forget to fit a firewall while your there. Stuart. Â On 8/31/2021 at 1:52 PM, Motorsport Mickey said: + 1 many many times. Mick Richards So shall it be written, so shall it be done. Thank you gentlemen; this is something that would never have crossed my mind. Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 1 hour ago, BlairP said: I assume I can completely remove the intermediate terminal from which I disconnect the brown/red wire, and run the remaining brown straight from the fuse box to the starter Yes you could remove it as the terminal no longer serves a purpose, though it might be a useful connection point if you want to add other electrical items in the future. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 2 hours ago, BlairP said: Â So shall it be written, so shall it be done. Thank you gentlemen; this is something that would never have crossed my mind. Blair Well done, always better to be safe. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted September 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 Greetings all. I'm getting deep into the electrical system, preparing to install the Classic Technologies upgraded fuse/relay box. Quick question (in what I imagine will be a long line): Is the existing wire in my '69 TR6 harness (which looks like it's already been replaced) sufficient to run the Bosch fuel pump? Or do I need to run a heavier gauge? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 29, 2021 Report Share Posted September 29, 2021 If it is a modern harness  the wire might already be thick enough. I needs to be at least 2mm^2  and 2.5mm^2 would be preferable.  To find what you have means counting the strands and measuring the individual diameter, then doing some arithmetic to find the total area. If you don't want that faff then run another wire You need to ensure the pump is powered via a relay and not direct from the ignition switch, but it sounds like you have that in mind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted September 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 Thanks Rob. As a simpler test, if the existing wire strips cleanly with the 2mm setting on my strippers, is that close enough? Or do I need to be more precise? Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 30, 2021 Report Share Posted September 30, 2021 Nice idea but not really good enough I think - that would just mean the overall core diameter was somewhere less than 2mm but how much less depends on the sharpness of the cutters and the strength of the insulation.  2mm diameter core would be 3.14mm^2 of course, 1.6mm diameter is 2mm^2  and 1.79mm is 2.5mm^2 but those dimensions are for solid-core not stranded wire (which would have to be a bit bigger to allow for the air gaps between the strands) so the differences are very small and depend on the number of strands. Unfortunately the number and diameter of strands will depend on who made the cable so even that isn't fixed.  Complicated isn't it. If you knew who supplied the loom you could ask them I suppose....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted October 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 Greetings! I'm beginning to get a handle on the electrical system, but I've run across another issue: The headlight dip switch is a three-wire switch, and the Classic Technologies control box I'm installing calls for a four-wire switch. I've searched and searched, but can't find such a thing. My understanding from the schematic is that the fourth wire feeds the headlamps continually during the change from low to high beams, so there's no blanking during the switchover. Is there a way to modify the existing switch to permit it to work this way? Thanks in advance, as always. Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 14, 2021 Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) I think that diagram is for a later car with both flash and dip in the same control-column switch.  It looks as though you have a separate foot operated  dip-switch in which case what you probably have is this:  Where the two separate switches I have shown with the broad arrows carry out the dip and flash functions ( note the original power feed to the dip-switch is the blue one. ) Without knowing a bit more about the CT control box it is difficult to advise the best way forward - can you give some details or a link, or failing that a bit of a wider view of that wiring diagram?   Edited October 14, 2021 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 14, 2021 Report Share Posted October 14, 2021 You can make four connections but the fourth is also a link between the two switches.   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted October 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, RobH said: I think that diagram is for a later car with both flash and dip in the same control-column switch.  It looks as though you have a separate foot operated  dip-switch in which case what you probably have is this:  Where the two separate switches I have shown with the broad arrows carry out the dip and flash functions ( note the original power feed to the dip-switch is the blue one. ) Without knowing a bit more about the CT control box it is difficult to advise the best way forward - can you give some details or a link, or failing that a bit of a wider view of that wiring diagram?   Thanks Rob, and yes: You are correct. The new CT box puts both dip and flash on the same unit. The original '69 schematic no longer applies, as it's been modified to accept the new box; I pulled a new wire from the steering column to the dip switch before I looked closely at the switch, thus the fourth wire. I'm thinking I may simply have to remove it. You can see the entirety of the CT schematic here: https://classic-technologies.com/pdfs/Classic-Technologies-Fuse-Box-Schematic.pdf Thanks again for your help. Blair Edited October 15, 2021 by BlairP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 15, 2021 Report Share Posted October 15, 2021 (edited) You can just do this then, though it probably means extending some wires: Â Edited October 15, 2021 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted November 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 Hello all. Does anyone have any idea as to what the semicircular aluminium bracket under the driver's side metal dash is for? This is a '69, so the ignition is in the heating control cowl. I'm beginning to think it's extraneous, and I may just remove it to install the lower cash pad. Thanks. Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 14, 2021 Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 Hi Blaire Possibly a bracket for the mile ommeter trip button/cable to the speedo? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 15, 2021 Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 Aftermarket, the bracket for the speedo reset is much smaller and behind the dash (if its still there). Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted November 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Hello everyone, things are starting to get interesting here. My older son, an engineer (not automotive, unfortunately), is coming home for the holidays, and together we’re going to try and start my ’69 for the first time since 1982. Having completely rebuilt the engine, I’m looking forward with anticipation (dread?) to turning the key for the first time. It has sat for the last six months, with only assembly lube in it, and I have turned it by hand every once in a while to keep things moving freely. Below is my checklist of things to do before trying to start it. What have I missed/forgotten/never known? Any and all input is more than welcome! -- Add all fluids/lubricants and bleed systems -- Remove spark plugs and disconnect coil -- Prime oil pump with drill, reinstall distributor/plugs/coil -- Connect battery and verify power to starter/fuel pump/alternator/etc. -- Turn on ignition and let fuel pump run; verify fuel pressure at MU -- Bleed injectors? -- Full choke and – pray! Thanks so much and – fingers crossed! Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 I’m excited for you Blair! i’ve rebuilt a few motorcycle engines and the excitement/fear of that first start…… steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 PS, i’d fill the injectors with fresh fuel from a syringe before connecting up the pipes, to reduce the need for cranking to get fuel to them steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 2 hours ago, BlairP said: Hello everyone, things are starting to get interesting here. My older son, an engineer (not automotive, unfortunately), is coming home for the holidays, and together we’re going to try and start my ’69 for the first time since 1982. Having completely rebuilt the engine, I’m looking forward with anticipation (dread?) to turning the key for the first time. It has sat for the last six months, with only assembly lube in it, and I have turned it by hand every once in a while to keep things moving freely. Below is my checklist of things to do before trying to start it. What have I missed/forgotten/never known? Any and all input is more than welcome! -- Add all fluids/lubricants and bleed systems -- Remove spark plugs and disconnect coil -- Prime oil pump with drill, reinstall distributor/plugs/coil -- Connect battery and verify power to starter/fuel pump/alternator/etc. -- Turn on ignition and let fuel pump run; verify fuel pressure at MU -- Bleed injectors? -- Full choke and – pray! Thanks so much and – fingers crossed! Blair Hope it goes well Blair will have to face the same at some point. Fingers crossed for you keep us posted! Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 4 hours ago, BlairP said: Hello everyone, things are starting to get interesting here. My older son, an engineer (not automotive, unfortunately), is coming home for the holidays, and together we’re going to try and start my ’69 for the first time since 1982. Having completely rebuilt the engine, I’m looking forward with anticipation (dread?) to turning the key for the first time. It has sat for the last six months, with only assembly lube in it, and I have turned it by hand every once in a while to keep things moving freely. Below is my checklist of things to do before trying to start it. What have I missed/forgotten/never known? Any and all input is more than welcome! -- Add all fluids/lubricants and bleed systems -- Remove spark plugs and disconnect coil -- Prime oil pump with drill, reinstall distributor/plugs/coil -- Connect battery and verify power to starter/fuel pump/alternator/etc. -- Turn on ignition and let fuel pump run; verify fuel pressure at MU -- Bleed injectors? -- Full choke and – pray! Thanks so much and – fingers crossed! Blair And reinstall the plugs and reconnect the coil when you're sure the oil and fuel systems are correctly primed. For the first start after a rebuild sometimes a bit of starting fluid helps the prayers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 "For the first start after a rebuild sometimes a bit of starting fluid helps the prayers." And offers a chance of breaking rings and negating the work done previously when rebuilding your engine...doesn't get used EVER on my engines. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted December 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 Hi chaps; another electrical question: I'm getting ready to turn the key and check my dash wiring, among other things. Before I do, I'm checking as much as possible with everything off. My question is this: Should I have continuity across the two poles of the battery cut-off, becauseI do not (see pic). I get continuity in the cable from the battery + pole to the cut-off, but not across the switch itself. Am I missing something, or do I have a faulty cut-off switch? Thanks Blair Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 Is the key inseted and turned to engage the switch ? if i were about to test wiring for the first time i’d insert a temporary fuse of about 10a in the circuit. this way the fuse will blow if there are any wiring errors causing high drain the fuse will protect wiring from releasing the secret smoke :-) steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlairP Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 13 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said: Is the key inseted and turned to engage the switch ? if i were about to test wiring for the first time i’d insert a temporary fuse of about 10a in the circuit. this way the fuse will blow if there are any wiring errors causing high drain the fuse will protect wiring from releasing the secret smoke :-) steve It is not; I thought the switch should show continuity as does a wire: without needing to be energised. Could I be wrong about that? (And good idea about the fuse!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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