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Cylinder Head Stud Removal


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Hi, I am in the process of removing the cylinder head on My TR6. I have  removed everything including the nuts and expected the head to lift off easily.

Started with the studs and have so far managed 11 of the 14.

The remaining ones are the 3 outer front studs which are being stubborn.

Currently using 2 head nuts tighened together. 

Has anyone got ideas to help? Thanks Steve.

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30 minutes ago, hot-growler said:

Hi, I am in the process of removing the cylinder head on My TR6. I have  removed everything including the nuts and expected the head to lift off easily.

Started with the studs and have so far managed 11 of the 14.

The remaining ones are the 3 outer front studs which are being stubborn.

Currently using 2 head nuts tighened together. 

Has anyone got ideas to help? Thanks Steve.

Use penetrating oil and put the nuts on and tap side to side then if still stuck use the rope trick 

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49 minutes ago, hot-growler said:

not familiar with the rope trick

You wait until we get to the "hot wax" treatment !

Mick Richards

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You're doing the right thing. They are stubborn to remove as the studs are a tight fit in the head so doesn't need a lot of rust to cause problems. I wouldn't force rope in it and try pushing it up with the piston... Sounds horrific. Engine crane, lots of wiggling, penetrating fluid and lots of swearing will get it off. 

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Plenty of penetrating oil is always a good move. If the two nut trick doesn't work, try a stud extractor. I haven't had to use one on the main cylinder head studs but this Laser extractor was very effective in removing stubborn manifold studs from the head:

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=xmiqqa&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695754|agid:42483195983|tid:aud-297219198129:pla-331463653198|crid:203186066553|nw:g|rnd:1656191797779694877|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1006917&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp4j6BRCRARIsAGq4yMGuzlRAxUStPjR38HEbMnYZq_dhPLpxuPj2PMIPFgwx4ztglpkGxNYaAngLEALw_wcB

The two nuts wouldn't grip as the threads on the manifold studs were worn and they were stuck in the head.I was a bit sceptical but this stud extractor got them all out easily.

Nigel

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2 minutes ago, hot-growler said:

used battery power though. didn't see Nigel's last post about rotating by hand.

Have had to use stud  extractors for my Stag, but didn't think steel-steel would be as difficult as it was. Thank you all for rapid replies.

On to my next post...

at least by hand you'd have had some way of feeling what was going on before you bent something. lucky it wasn't proper stuck!

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11 minutes ago, mtrehy said:

at least by hand you'd have had some way of feeling what was going on before you bent something. lucky it wasn't proper stuck!

You will bend nothing read my posts and I said front pulley as for the other question was it using oil if so waste of time rebore required 

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don't need to read your posts champ. done hundreds of heads and worked with many top engine builders and never seen anyone resort to that. We both know it would have come off if he'd pulled it up straight.

lucky he didn't put a 10ft scaffold bar on it and found it was genuinely stuck.

good luck with your method. not my problem.

Edited by mtrehy
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10 minutes ago, mtrehy said:

don't need to read your posts champ. done hundreds of heads and worked with many top engine builders and never seen anyone resort to that. We both know it would have come off if he'd pulled it up straight.

lucky he didn't put a 10ft scaffold bar on it and found it was genuinely stuck.

good luck with your method. not my problem.

Then you know best! Guess what I have done the same so glaze bust and just renew rings? Waste of time. Question for you which conrods will need checking and why.

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Second bucket of popcorn ordered, comfy armchair awaiting the flurry of incoming comments.

 "done hundreds of heads and worked with many top engine builders and never seen anyone resort to that. "

Nice to have a true professional with us, I hope to learn lots.

Mick Richards

 

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2 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Second bucket of popcorn ordered, comfy armchair awaiting the flurry of incoming comments.

 "done hundreds of heads and worked with many top engine builders and never seen anyone resort to that. "

Nice to have a true professional with us, I hope to learn lots.

Mick Richards

 

Anonymous like from me :D

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On my TR2 I used a bread knife between the head and block. Nice and broad surface that gently broke the seal and got the head moving. Then gently lever it here and there and it came free.

 

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Put a 5/16" unf bolt in the TR5/6 block where the front lifting eye can be fitted, or better still fit the lifting eye, then there is just enough room to get a pinch bar resting on that bolt/lifting eye under the edge of the cylinder head to ease the front end up (with all studs in place) to break the cylinder head gasket bond. Once that's done you can ease it all the way round and lift it up straight over the studs. 

Studs can then be removed either by two nut method or stud extractor for the stubborn ones with the benefit that the extractor can be located right at the bottom of the stud for maximum purchase.

Dave McD

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I would try and get the studs out. The last time I had to remove a really stuck head was when I restored my GT6. 

http://www.gtsix.co.uk/restoration.html

I used a Lazer stud extractor after failing to get enough torque using the 2 nuts locked together. The stud extractor allowed me to use a long breaker bar to remove the studs. Once the studs are out it is easy to remove the head without the risk of damaging anything.

Chris

Laser Impact Stud Extractor.jpg

Edited by TRsixchris
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