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Attaching 4 pot TR engine to a stand


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I am about to remove the engine from my TR3a to do some work on it. (among other issues fix an oil leak(s?) from the back end).

I have a Clarke engine stand similar to the one in the attached picture with a mounting head as shown in the photo.

Whenever I have used it in the past I have attached the engine to the stand using some studs that I have threaded to fit the back of the engine but I have always been extremely wary of their tensile strength.

Does anyone on here have a clever means of fixing the engine that is a bit more robust?  I have plenty of offcuts of angle iron and RHS so can easily fabricate something but before I do, the best ideas are frequently to copy someone else.

Rgds Ian

Screenshot 2020-08-19 at 12.13.57.png

78702861-FAB8-4E12-BA6D-7089D5D79612_1_105_c.jpeg

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Ian, I dont think you need anything more sophisticated than your engine stand. I recall reading somewhere that one grade 8 bolt has enough tensile strength to support the weight of the engine and you will have four. Best of luck getting that twin cam motor in the TR.

Stan

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I've never understood why they always attach to the end of the block which restricts access. I made an adapter to bolt to the side.

Jerry

TR engine stand adaptor 002.JPG

TR engine stand adaptor 004.JPG

TR engine stand adaptor 007.JPG

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Clarke stand with TR2 engine.

3 off 5/16" UNC studs with nuts both ends and one 3/8" stud and nuts.

Access to the back of the crank is tight.  

Flywheel goes on after removal from engine stand.

 

jeft.jpg

right.jpg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thks for all the replies and particularly Roger for pointing out when this came up a few years ago.  Rather than rely on my studs of unknown quality, I have ordered some 4 ins x 5/16 UNC grade 'S' bolts from Namrick to do the job properly.

Rgds Ian

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Roger?   I've been called many things, but never a Roger!   The original thread was RogerH's!

And Jerry, I fear that TR3A blocks lack a side fitting.

Ian,

I've had the same concern, and for my six-cylinder blocks a bit more.    They, and four-cylinders, are held to the gearbox by many more bolts than the four that a stand can provide.  I bolt a rear engine plate to mine, by the seven bolts that it uses in situ, and feel much better.    Then I can bolt it to the stand by any of the holes around the rim of the plate.     I then worry that this will distort the plate, so use an old one I'll never use for real (painted red to make sure) which further allows me to drill out my chosen holes to take the biggest bolts that the stand will allow.  And to give access to the rear crank seal housing, I've enlarged the central hole.  The result is below.

But some may not have a spare rear plate.    Then a piece of plate, bought online or possibly begged from a local engineering works, drilled appropriately, would do the same job.    The  picture that illustrates Roger's thread above shows such a plate, I think.

 

 

Adapted backplatefor engine stand.jpg

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No problem with a 6 cylinder.

Tim

IMG_1952s.thumb.JPG.87510ac7cbe6907d532bc52f0c9e5729.JPG

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  • 2 months later...
On 8/19/2020 at 1:09 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Clarke stand with TR2 engine.

3 off 5/16" UNC studs with nuts both ends and one 3/8" stud and nuts.

Access to the back of the crank is tight.  

Flywheel goes on after removal from engine stand.

 

jeft.jpg

right.jpg

Peter. you seem to have the same engine stand that I have borrowed, I had to drill two extra holes in the top two support arms in order to fit, as the arms were too long if I used the existing holes at the end, did you have to do something similar ?

2133681912_Boltedtostandbracket1.thumb.jpg.00b11ca993e739aa2bf6a0feac10d821.jpg

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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