foster461 Posted August 15, 2020 Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 Memo to self. The next time you do a TR3 project, sort out the engine alignment before you put the body back on the frame. So I spent a couple of hours today inserting some shims to lift the engine in an attempt to get the correct alignment with the grill, crank guide, radiator hole and the fan extension. Just figuring out how to do that was an achievement as on the LHD car the left hand engine mount is buried under steering bits, radiator bottom hose bits etc. Anyway now I know where to access the mounts and what tools to use the next time will be easier. There will be a next time because even though I inserted two shims each side and lifted the mounts about 1/8 inch it was apparently not enough as after the engine settled I could still not get the crank into the fan extension. However I did make a template of one of the shims so I can make more. I should have done this while I had the body off the frame. Shove the crank through the rad hole and if it engages with the handle anything but horizontal fix it then and not after the body is installed. What do you think one or two more shims ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 15, 2020 Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 I reckon that at 1/16th inch per shim I'd be using an extra 2. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 Two more shims was too much, i guess the pivot point is about a foot or so behind the end of the fan extension so a 1/16 rise at the engine mount results in a > 1/16 rise at the front. Crank now engages with a total of three shims, still have two more shims in the event that things settle. Inserting the first pair of shims took almost two hours. Inserting the third shims took 30 mins. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 Hi Stan, Given the bulbous shape of the starting handle I am surprised that you had this issue but I still have this task to complete in the future. Does this make it more difficult to remove / change the original thick fan felt? I imagine it will be easier but would like to know. Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 Good question Rod. The engine did visibly move obviously but in the end all I did was bring everything into alignment they way it likely left the factory. I'll take a look later today and see if the prospects for getting the wide fan belt off have improved. I may have made that task worse if the crank extension is now closer to the radiator. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 I dont think aligning the crank orifices has changed much re fan belt replacement. There seems to be ample clearance between the fan extension and the radiator so I assume the wide fan belt has issues elsewhere like the cross brace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 11 hours ago, foster461 said: I dont think aligning the crank orifices has changed much re fan belt replacement. There seems to be ample clearance between the fan extension and the radiator so I assume the wide fan belt has issues elsewhere like the cross brace. The issue is where the cross link between steering box and idler sits below the fan extension, lifting the engine by shims on the mounts should improve it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Ok Stuart that makes sense. I have probably moved the front of the fan extension 3/4 inches further away from the drag link. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 13 hours ago, foster461 said: Ok Stuart that makes sense. I have probably moved the front of the fan extension 3/4 inches further away from the drag link. Stan Thats given you enough clearance now I would say to get the belt through should you need to change it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 19, 2020 Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 25 minutes ago, stuart said: Thats given you enough clearance now I would say to get the belt through should you need to change it. And of course you must know that putting the wheels on full lock (LH I think) increases the gap further.....? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Bernat Posted October 22, 2022 Report Share Posted October 22, 2022 My alignment problem is a left/right issue. Looking through the front hole, the crank end is about 1/4” to the right and the handle dogs can’t engage. BTE my engine is. TR4 in a TR3a frame. Suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted October 22, 2022 Report Share Posted October 22, 2022 7 hours ago, Rich Bernat said: My alignment problem is a left/right issue. Looking through the front hole, the crank end is about 1/4” to the right and the handle dogs can’t engage. BTE my engine is. TR4 in a TR3a frame. Suggestions? Taking shims out of one side and adding to the other side might move it across, unless there is some movement on your radiator mountings. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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