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Tunnel cover quality


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Evening all

The tunnel cover on my 4a must be around 25 years old, and has always been a poor fit along the floor edges, especially on the curve where the floors bell out towards the toeboard. It does not sit tight enough and not enough flex in it to make it fit.

Its a grey fibreglass cover from around 1995 from probably Cox & Buckles then. Are the new ones a better fit and can you get all the bolts in ? ( not a great picture sorry).

Thanks

Kevin 

76722DB9-B974-4A52-B8D1-64BF3C889D09.jpeg

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If the rest of the cover is ok, I would make judicious cuts along that area until the cover fits flat and then FG over the cuts to maintain the amended shape.

Some build up of FG on the top will not effect the carpet fitment.

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Kevin - I've just fitted a cover with exactly the same problem  - probably a similar age to yours and the moulding curvature was just wrong in the area you describe - when I stuck a screwdriver through the captive nut in the floor panel from underneath, it came up inside the tunnel, and nowhere near inside the cockpit - I tried wedging the tunnel across with bits of wood but couldn't make it come anywhere close to fitting.

In the end, and with plenty of rubber seal ( draught excluder and not the very thin official seals) , I wedged the tunnel as tightly across as I could from the sill and then bolted it down on either side of the offending area  - that worked fine and still sealed OK so I wouldn't bother doing anything more.

The fit of nearly all these tunnels, whether they be fibreglass or plastic is notoriously poor, and I haven't found one yet which fits well so persevere with what you have, and once you've got it fitting as best as possible, it will always be easier next time around.

I did do a post on the Forum ages ago ( can't find it now!) about how to fit a new tunnel as they don't come with any of the mounting holes pre-drilled and, it seems, are either too big or too small in their curvature fit around the bulkhead - getting a good seal makes a lot of difference to the noise level in the cockpit.

Hope this helps

Cheers Rich 

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I found this one a good fit http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr4a-c8/tr4a-interior-and-trim-c42/racetorations-tr4a-6-fibreglass-split-gearbox-tunnel-includes-extra-inspection-panels-p1023 just need marbles/ballbearings to mark/centre the fixing holes properly.

But knowing what I know now would have kept my old FG one and modified it to fit as suggested above, after all once the carpets are in nobody sees it ! 

 

ATB Graham 

Edited by Graham
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Racestorations currently offering 15% off if you wish to go that route. 

....... Andy 

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I fitted a Racetorations split cover in 2004.  Back then, it was supplied without the fixing holes drilled, so I had to do that myself - I think I might have written about this for TR Action (if so, it will be in the Technicalities CD).  However, fitted well and is helpful when access is required to the rear.

Ian Cornish

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies.

The Racetorations version is tempting and seems quite versatile in that it is 2-piece, and has apertures for Oil, and adjustment of overdrive switches. Had to adjust the overdrive switch recently which means whole top cover off.  Also, speedo angle drive and cable replacement are impossible without some access, and in fact mine has a hole in it to allow for the corner of the angle drive!

Rich also makes sense in persevering with my cover. They are actually very solidly made, though do they offer any torsional stress or strength to the body? I doubt the original hardboard version did, but either way they'd need to be bolted down firmly to give that I would've thought.

I think first I'll see if I can brace a wooden sTRut across as Rich suggested, then bolt it in place. Currently I can get a thick ruler between the cover and floor at the right front area, even with the seal in place, so not ideal for cabin noise or exhaust/ engine fuming!

I suppose when my version was made most panels were potentially a very poor reproduction of the original!

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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Best fitting aftermarket item I came across was the Roadster Factory 'space age plastic' one.  Being a vacuum formed semi rigid plastic it could be made to fit just like an original fibre board one.  They also made a glove box for TR5/6 in the same method.

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/43.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080#FC21

Cheers

Peter W

 

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5 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Best fitting aftermarket item I came across was the Roadster Factory 'space age plastic' one.  Being a vacuum formed semi rigid plastic it could be made to fit just like an original fibre board one.  They also made a glove box for TR5/6 in the same method.

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/43.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080#FC21

Cheers

Peter W

 

Hi Peter

 Could be a problem with shipping costs and customs, as it's a US company. Couldn't find a UK subsidiary?

Regards

Kevin

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12 minutes ago, boxofbits said:

Hi Peter

 Could be a problem with shipping costs and customs, as it's a US company. Couldn't find a UK subsidiary?

Regards

Kevin

I do not know if this is the item from Roadster Factory.   A question to the seller might be helpful.  Could perhaps be from Limora or Bastuk

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/gearbox-tunnel-577616.htmlm

 

Maybe from here?   https://www.limora.com/nl/british-cars/triumph/triumph-tr5-tr250-and-tr6-1968-1976/body-panels/inner-body-repair-panels-rear-section-tr5-and-tr250.html

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Fitted a plastic split cover from TRGB a few weeks, although they claim it's the best fitting one available (don't they all) I still needed to make 'adjustments' but I am happy with the result.

 

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Ordered a Racetorations tunnel today for the 4a.

Two reasons, one being they have a sale on at the moment!... ( thanks Graham & Andy), secondly it is a 2-piece item and has access for speedo cable, grommet for gearbox oil filler, access for overdrive switches and for propshaft, so good versatility. Only thing it doesn't have is the hole for overdrive cables, but obviously some cars don't have overdrive!

Thought about cutting, reshaping and re-fibre glassing the old unit, but the above advantages of the Racetorations unit I think outweigh going to the trouble and time involved.

Kevin

 

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Would some sound deadening be necessary on these plastic covers I'm considering getting one.  I would think it would be best to mount it on the inside, would I be right?

John 

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What is the preferred material for sound deadening these tunnels? I have an original one in my Spitfire which is cardboard and has plastic pockets of what looks like loft insulation stapled too it but I'm guessing there is better and probably safer stuff out there now.

 

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On 8/18/2020 at 8:47 AM, John L said:

Would some sound deadening be necessary on these plastic covers I'm considering getting one.  I would think it would be best to mount it on the inside, would I be right?

John 

Hi John

Racetorations are supplying an adhesive covering to cut to size which will effectively serve as a sound deadening  carpet underlay, but you can add more if preferred, as long as you can still get your Centre console back in! You would normally bond this to the side facing the interior of the car.

They also supply a complete fitting kit which includes the adhesive floor edge seals, screws and brackets.

Regards

Kevin

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This is how I did my 2 piece Restorations cover. so far excellent- I've had a need to remove the rear section to adjust the OD solenoid and re-tighten that terrible exhaust clamp properly and its great. Adjustment including stripping out interior though is a four hour job.

Sound deadening is stick-on black stuff with aluminium face and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) below carpet all from Sound Deadening Shop on-line- no link, only a satisfied customer. Seems to work a treat.

Good luck.

James

IMAG1317.jpg

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On 8/21/2020 at 5:21 PM, Jase said:

Another question :) isn’t the black studf bitumen based so therefore will it melt? Thanks

Hi Guys

The soundproofing supplied by Racetorations is not a bitumen product Jase. I don’t think I’d want that inside my car.

Just put in place the Racetorations tunnel kit and first impression is that it fits well along the floors and bulkhead with good accessibility. If anyone is looking for a one piece tunnel that might need modifications to fit well let me know. As you can see the angle drive needed to protrude from the side of the cover, so a plate would need to be fabricated.

Kevin 

6AE27E4D-C7A6-4B4D-BD95-A29230751690.jpeg

C4183727-F73C-4FDA-B391-50831DE0B994.jpeg

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Well, I do think you can benefit from some modern good quality sound deadening- Mine was "Silentcoat" as above. It does transform the TR quite dramatically especially if you add other deadening and sound reducing materials around the inside of the car. I guess bitumen will burn but that conclusion is not really applicable on the top face of  the Racetorations tunnel cover is it?

James

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Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, signalredshaker said:

Well, I do think you can benefit from some modern good quality sound deadening- Mine was "Silentcoat" as above. It does transform the TR quite dramatically especially if you add other deadening and sound reducing materials around the inside of the car. I guess bitumen will burn but that conclusion is not really applicable on the top face of  the Racetorations tunnel cover is it?

James

Hi James

I think Jase might have been under the impression that your soundproofing was bitumen based, which it is not by all accounts. Looks like it is ideal for car and construction sound deadening.

 I will look into the brand you use. I believe it is also easy to cut to shape and self-adhesive.

I notice the tunnel itself is not as thick as my original f/glass tunnel, but then the original fibreboard/hardboard cover was not particularly rugged. When I originally removed it is was in poor condition and some areas had disintegrated.

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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