John McCormack Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I have decided to fit the low port head and carbies to my long door TR2 and have the old head ready to lift off. The high port head on the engine is fully rebuilt so it isn't sacrificial. I cannot budge it. I have tried tapping a thin screwdriver between the block and head and als a flat punch. I am concerned at damaging the head or block by being too vigorous with this method. I didn't build the engine so have no idea if the builder used anything on the head gasket. I suspect they did. Ideas and advice please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I had similar problems earlier this year. Have you got an engine hoist ? if so us it to pull the head upwards, & the use whatever you can find to lever the head up. It took me almost a day to remove mine, the part which was holding it the worst was the rearmost drivers side stud. I had to resort to wedges between block & head, (I was having the head skimmed anyway) Good luck Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I assume you have tried double nutting the studs and removing them first? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 52 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said: I assume you have tried double nutting the studs and removing them first? Rgds Ian Good idea! I managed to get it off. I used a butter knife to break the seal around the gasket. Push the knife between the block and head and gently tap it in around the head. Once the head was up a few mm a long screwdriver was used to gently lift the head to the top of the studs. We have a builder here doing work on our house. With his muscles we lifted it off. I used to do it all on my own but not anymore. The engine has only done 1200 miles since a full rebuild so it was nice and clean underneath. I've cleaned the top of the block and will put the new gasket on with Hylomar. The rebuilt low port head will be bolted on and then I'll reassemble with the restored 1 1/2" SUs. Should be back together as an original long door TR2 in a couple of days. The high port head and carbies are almost new so will be stored as spares for my other TR2 which doesn't need to be original. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I have used an engine hoist as Bob mentions. That does take the effort out of lifting. But it is just inconvenient. back in the 90's had terrible trouble doing the first head lift on my rebuild. When it was high enough to see the shank f the front off side stud I could see it had new scratch marks on it. The exhaust manifold forward stud had been screwed toooooooo far in and was locking on the stud. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 Hi John, why do you use Hylomar (blue?) with the head gasket? I thought copper composite gaskets didn’t need any sealant? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 (edited) They shouldn't do, but since you only get one shot at it ------- belt & braces ! Bob. P.S. I use Wellseal Edited August 13, 2020 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 32 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said: Hi John, why do you use Hylomar (blue?) with the head gasket? I thought copper composite gaskets didn’t need any sealant? Rgds Ian As Bob says, it doesn't hurt and can help with keeping the coolant and oil in their proper places and out of the cylinders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 I thought the head gasket had a heat activated lacquer that helped it stay down. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 56 minutes ago, RogerH said: I thought the head gasket had a heat activated lacquer that helped it stay down. Roger Only the new “composite” gaskets, ( black in colour). As Bob says On an original copper/asbestos/copper use a coating of Wellseal both sides, it’s easy to part afterwards and gives mating surfaces the best chance to prevent water ingress or “wicking” by capillary. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 13, 2020 Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 Thanks Mick. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Forey Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 I always remove all the head studs before trying to budge the head. Reduces most of the holding force. A twist sideways is usually all that is required. Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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