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Hi Guys,

taken this week off to try and get the rest of the painting done, mainly front wings, front panel and bonnet. Hopefully by the end of the week I will be ready to re fit the wings and front panel. What is the best way to fit the beading, should I attach this to the wings first, or is it best to loosely attach the wings and front panel and then insert the "legs" of the beading before finally tightening the wing to shroud bolts?.

Also do new hoods come with the fasteners attached or not?

Thanks in advance, Ralph.

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Fit the wings and front panel,  but not fully tightened.  It is important to cover both the wing and the body, and the front panel,  with 2" of masking tape to prevent the tags from scratching the new paint. They can be fed in slowly bit by bit and when almost flush remove the tape and ask for help from someone to hold the beading down while you complete the tightening. The tag nearest the door is the hardest one because it is difficult the reach up inside the wing.

The tape is important ! I have done this lots of times and you may need to bend some of the tags to get the bead to cover the gaps evenly. I try to place the tags near a fixing bolt so that they are gripped firmly

Don't hurry and good luck.

Richard & B.

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Hi Guys,

taken this week off to try and get the rest of the painting done, mainly front wings, front panel and bonnet. Hopefully by the end of the week I will be ready to re fit the wings and front panel. What is the best way to fit the beading, should I attach this to the wings first, or is it best to loosely attach the wings and front panel and then insert the "legs" of the beading before finally tightening the wing to shroud bolts?.

Also do new hoods come with the fasteners attached or not?

Reproduction replacement Soft Top Hoods do not usually come with the fasteners installed.  The only fasteners you could realistically be sure to be in the right place are the 10 x  Tenax fasteners on the windscreen frame.

Fitting soft tops has been covered in this forum. 

Peter W

2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Thanks in advance, Ralph.

 

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Fitting the front wing beads should have been part of Derek & Clive's "worst job I ever 'ad" sketch.

In addition to reels of masking tape you may want to de-burr the edges of the tags and remove the two sharp corners. I also fit each tag above a fixing bolt - it stops them sliding down during the process and, if like mine, the mating faces are closer at the bolt positions due to years of over tightening, it ensures they are captured firmly. Before final tightening it's possible to gently tap the bead with a very soft hammer to get it all close. I don't fold the tags over, it distorts them making them more of a problem when you inevitably have to repeat the process!

 

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Something I don 't see mentioned is the fact that the tags may slip and slide as you try to position the beading. I put a piece of tape  on each to keep them in position after measuring approx position of the wing bolts. They do need to be as close the the bolts to get the max pinching effect.

The long section will not fit the radius of the wing without fettling i.e cut and bend.

If you are careful you can cut a v section out so that when fitted the split is almost invisible. DO NOT TRY TO BEND IT INTO POSITION it wont work.

depending on who made them the beading is quite fragile and easily dentable!!!!

Rod

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49 minutes ago, Rodbr said:

Something I don 't see mentioned is the fact that the tags may slip and slide as you try to position the beading. I put a piece of tape  on each to keep them in position after measuring approx position of the wing bolts. They do need to be as close the the bolts to get the max pinching effect.

The long section will not fit the radius of the wing without fettling i.e cut and bend.

If you are careful you can cut a v section out so that when fitted the split is almost invisible. DO NOT TRY TO BEND IT INTO POSITION it wont work.

depending on who made them the beading is quite fragile and easily dentable!!!!

Rod

This afternoons job is to make the wing beads fit the wings whilst they are off and not yet painted. I have a shrinker stretcher so I am hoping I can use that to tease the long section into shape, which should make the eventual fitting a tad easier (I hope!).

Ralph.

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15 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

This afternoons job is to make the wing beads fit the wings whilst they are off and not yet painted. I have a shrinker stretcher so I am hoping I can use that to tease the long section into shape, which should make the eventual fitting a tad easier (I hope!).

Ralph.

That is what I used. It worked well and just left a few marks in that metal strip where the jaws of the stretcher grabbed it. Way better than cutting slots.

Stan

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I removed the long metal strip, scribed the wing top profile to it, ground off the excess to get the correct profile, re-swaged the crimps that slide into the beading with a flat punch where needed , painted it and refitted. 

To get the strip out you need to 'un swage' the front end of the bead and slide out tabs then strip.  I also painted all the tabs as they were mild steel on the beads I have.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I removed the long metal strip, scribed the wing top profile to it, ground off the excess to get the correct profile, re-swaged the crimps that slide into the beading with a flat punch where needed , painted it and refitted. 

To get the strip out you need to 'un swage' the front end of the bead and slide out tabs then strip.  I also painted all the tabs as they were mild steel on the beads I have.

Peter W

For that Peter I am going to declare you the winner !

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I had to shorten the beads by about 1.5 inches each side. Makes a change because the rear ones were about 3 inches too short!. Anyway I cut the excess off the front end and was able to remove the long strip so that I could alter its profile in the shrinker/stretcher.  Re assembled I have had them mounted on the wing and drilled the holes for the self taps. While I was at it I re arranged the tabs, as I had 5 at each end, so moved an extra one to the front so there is one to go next to each bolt, and cut 1/2 inch off each tab as they were too long. All labelled up n/s & o/s and away on the shelf ready for fitting, next week I hope. Got the rest of this week to get the wings and front panel prepped and painted.

Ralph.

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16 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I removed the long metal strip, scribed the wing top profile to it, ground off the excess to get the correct profile, re-swaged the crimps that slide into the beading with a flat punch where needed , painted it and refitted. 

To get the strip out you need to 'un swage' the front end of the bead and slide out tabs then strip.  I also painted all the tabs as they were mild steel on the beads I have.

Peter W

Those look spot on Peter,

I don`t think I could have done that with the beads I had as they were so far out. They went more or less dead straight for 3/4 of the length and then kinked down for the remaining 1/4. When I offered them up for the first time with each end in contact with the wing, the middle was up by nearly an inch. I guess that`s why they were being sold off cheap when I bought them.

Ralph.

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Why don’t they just make the wing beads with the correct shape long metal strip. Surely it can’t be that difficult to get them better than they are, even allowing for minute variations in wing shape. 
 

Rgds Ian 

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I bought my TR2 without the front apron fitted, and will shortly be ready to put it on. The bead tags (TR3 type beads) have been fastened to the wings with small self-tappers. I'm guessing this was done by Northern TR Centre who fitted and painted the body back in 1997. It will be interesting to see if there is enough clearance to fit the apron with the beads in place.

Incidentally what do people use as a sealant between the wings and apron?

 

Wing trim.jpg

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When I took my car apart there was no evidence of any sealer anywhere on the wings. I think I will use sealer between the outer wing and the inner wing, but in the interests of easy removal if (when) it becomes necessary I am just going to paint lots of waxoyl between the front shroud and wings, and at the same time plaster lots on the bolts.

Ralph

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  • 2 months later...

What was used by the factory to fit the long metal strip.  Was it screws ? and i take it not philips pozi ones.

Will try Pete's surgestion removing for paint.  As mine are a refit i hope no profile problems.

Roy

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7 minutes ago, roy53 said:

What was used by the factory to fit the long metal strip.  Was it screws ? and i take it not philips pozi ones.

Will try Pete's surgestion removing for paint.  As mine are a refit i hope no profile problems.

Roy

They were slotted round head No4 and a complete bugger to fit due to location and being slotted

Stuart.

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